Can you give an example. I've never seen this.![]()
Instruments built in the style of 50's and 60's Fenders are like this.
Fender did not add a route for the truss rod adjustment until the 70's.
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Can you give an example. I've never seen this.![]()
Active electronics are always problematical. I was so jazzed when I bought my first active bass, with 3-band EQ onboard, and 3 different midrange centers to choose from. Fat City!
But after happily twiddling those knobs, in less than a month of experimentation I'd set them all to the 0 position. But I have no passive mode, so even though I'm neither boosting nor attenuating anything anymore, I'm consuming batteries. And forgetting to pull out the cord means the batteries are gone in a hurry. And when they're gone, no sound. Dead.
Then I discovered that getting at the batteries to change them was a major inconvenience. Three screws, of the wood screw variety screwed into the wood (guaranteed to get sloppy after enough removals). Then the plate was airtight all the way around, really pounded in the routed area so it was nearly impossible to pop off. Took some effort and care.
Some careful modding can ease the battery replacement process, but it's still annoying when I never move the EQ knobs from dead center.
Instruments built in the style of 50's and 60's Fenders are like this. Fender did not add a route for the truss rod adjustment until the 70's.
Instruments built in the style of 50's and 60's Fenders are like this.
Fender did not add a route for the truss rod adjustment until the 70's.
2) Inexpensive basses with onboard preamps. If you are putting out a bass in the sub $800 price point - put the money into good construction and components, instead of providing a predictably crappy onboard pre.
I'd also rather have 'my sound' coming from my bass rather than my amp, as any time I'm running from a DI I lose any of the EQ my amp provides.

