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Bass Mods and Improvements

on two-pickup basses with three knobs, i prefer to have P1Vol-P2Vol-Tone rather than MasterVol-Blend-Tone

I also think it's fun to do a push-pull mod on the tone pot to swap between two caps, but functionally i don't use it all that much

i love trying out mods, but those are the only two that have really "stuck". i don't usually swap pickups unless i feel like i'm lacking something.
 
Lightweight tuners and a better quality output jack are upgrades you won’t regret. Taking just a small amount of weight off the headstock helps almost any bass for ergonomics and a good quality or locking jack helps a lot in getting a great connection and not accidentally coming unplugged. Neither will change your sound, but definitely good things to do.
Another thing I like to do is to replace the wood screws on backplates that I will remove from time to time (for battery changes or preamp level tweaking) with bolts and inserts. Many of the top quality makers do this as standard practice to eliminate stripped screws.
 
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A loading capacitor. Put a small (.001 - .005 uF) capacitor between hot and ground where the pick-up leads join the volume pot, and it's like swapping pickups for about 50 cents (test a few different values to see what sounds good). Put the loading cap on a switch, and you get two different pickup flavors.
 
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If I like the way an instrument plays and sounds I will stay away from doing any mods, but if I have one that is not "collectible" there's no harm in swapping out some parts if I think there's a chance that will result in some improvement. If not, the originals can always be reinstalled. On Fender-style instruments, I have changed out some or all of these, and I will swap out each item one at a time to be able to isolate the effect:

capacitor (I find an orange drop .050 usually works well for me)
nut (bone seems to work the best)
bridge
pickups
and sometimes pickguards - i.e. I really don't like the feeling of the 50's anodized pickguards under my fingers, so on the instruments I've owned that came with those I can't take them off fast enough.
 
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my parts basses are like "100% modded" to me, but the best mods that i've come across (some from my TB bothers/sisters) are those that balance an instrument:
- lightweight tuning machines
- re-locating the strap buttons (both of them if necessary).
- strap button extensions
- better/different straps (specifically for balancing)

not ever having to use your fingerboard hand for neck support (i mean zero support) is the ultimate! other mods are cool, fun improvements (hopefully), but playing an instrument that balances well = a game-changer...maybe even a life changer! ;)

all i got!

pretty pictures:
front and back copy.png J copy.png red P copy.png beater copy.png
 
Wow, excellent responses!! Thank you. Yeah, I hadn't had a chance to get stuck in properly here. I put the thread up late one night and hadn't really had a chance to get past the first few responses before I had to hit the sack. Then it kinda blew up. :D

Alright, so, the build itself. Definitely a partscaster of sorts, so the body will be made from scratch, and modeled on about three different bass approaches on the macro-level: Billy Sheehan's, Cliff Burton's, and something I devised in my arrogant youth. ;) I'm calling it the "Billy Burton" build, or mod, or however you want to refer to it.

To wit: it's basically a Billy Sheehan Wife Build with some of the elements from Cliff Burton's set-up, like the J-Bass pickup and the strat pickup hidden in the well of the Ric 4001 bridge where the mute went, which Cliff regarded as his "secret weapon". That idea was very appealing to me and something I wanted to explore. I'm also a huge fan of what Doug Irwin did with Jerry Garcia's guitars, so this would be Jerrified with high end electronics and preamps, battery boxes, multiple outputs (going back to Billy's two jack approach), high end woods, and so on. And then the piece de resistance: a 5"x9" Tiger model oval medallion on the back which acts as a removable cover-plate that hides all of the preamps and electronics and also channels for routing pickup wires and so on.

So, to amend the above, a Jerrified Billy Sheehan Wife Build with Cliff Burton elements brought in. Billy on top, Burton on the bottom . . . (saying that out loud, that totally did not sound right o_O).

So, to that end:

* P-Bass body with a strat-styled modified lower horn to give higher string access
* All access neck joint similar to the Fender Ultra joint on their Ultra Strat
* curved neck plate, plus two angled neck bolts, a la Billy's Attitude Bass III
* Scallops on the top 4-5 frets (full scallops across, cuz doing them halfway like on Billy's bass is a royal pain)
* Ultra small fret wire like on Lee Sklar's basses (next size up from mandolin wire)
* Various preamps and what not. Still working on which ones I want to use where.
* Three different pickup systems:
  • EB0 or EB1 style subwoofer pickup deep into the neck, like on Billy's
  • PJ set-up in the middle (more on this in a moment)
  • Strat style pickup butted right up against the bridge
* 3-4 output jacks. a) subwoofer pickup, b) PJ combo, c) tba, d) strat pickup. The idea is that in addition to the set-up Billy has, I was pipe the strat pickup to a Fender Bassman or Bassman clone. c) option would be for a possible direct out option in a studio setting. Still sorting that out.
* specially designed jack plate designed to take 4 jacks, which would be mounted on the side. Link Removed
* adjustment to the classic p-bass silhouette with an extension on the lower right bout to allow for the jack-plate extension, like on a conklin sidewider or some of the alembics.
* Hipshot Bass Xtender
* Schaller 3D-5 5-string bridge in chrome
* 4 string P-Bass neck converted to a 5-string (had this forever since I was 20, so now three decades)
* Bass ramps: the subwoofer pickup will act as one bass ramp, and the neck position p-bass pickup will be incorporated into the second.
* (cont from above) Hidden J-bass neck pickup incorporated into the aforementioned ramp, right next to the P-bass pickup
* asymmetrical neck profile for comfort.
* currently Schaller BM chrome tuners (the elephant ears ones with the smaller footprint), but might go smaller/lighter
* quilt maple top on a swamp ash core, with an ebony and quilt maple oval medallion
* custom white pearloid pickguard on top of a beautiful 3-tone sunburst (along with the maple one piece neck, definitely my favorite color scheme)
* debating doing a natural masked binding
* thinking about doing a thick top of quilt maple on the left side so that I can do a custom carve on the elbow contour, making it rounder and more crescent shaped, vs having to build a steam box to steam the quilt top and bend it to do a drop top.
* possible chambering where applicable to adjust for weight
* a specially designed thumb-rest on the side of the neck in the upper bout similar to a popular add-on one for Ric 4001's
* two, possibly three, battery boxes. right now I'm routed for two, but I might fit in a third. one of those battery boxes is a double.
* instead of strap locks, I'll be bolting in a Sheehan style custom strap
* spoke wheel truss rod if I can swing it
* glow in the dark dots on the fret markers ($10 bottle of glow in the dark paint! or custom fret marker material)
* possible piezo pickups in sweet spots so I can dial in some woody richness without necessarily going completely down the piezo trail.
* various hum cancelling technologies which I'm just now exploring, like dummy coils
* various pearl inlay motifs still in development
* all custom pickups given the tight five string spacing
* multiple amp system incorporating SVT's, B15's, and the aforementioned Fender Bassman

This is all that comes to mind at the moment.

Basically, at first glance it would like a pretty P-bass with the addition of an EB1, but then take a closer look and a lot more is going on with it.

Chesh
 
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this is really clever and not something i've ever thought of. Thanks for the idea.
The bolts and inserts that I found are small enough and work the best are usually in metric sizes, which was actually easier for me than matching fractional or non-metric sizes and threads, so once you decide on the color and head shape of the bolt, finding matching inserts is very straight forward. I actually tried some flat knurled knob type bolts for battery access (so I didn’t need any tools to do a quick battery swap) but I liked the back better flush and went with flat Phillips heads instead. I always keep a couple tools in my gig bag anyway.
 
The bolts and inserts that I found are small enough and work the best are usually in metric sizes, which was actually easier for me than matching fractional or non-metric sizes and threads, so once you decide on the color and head shape of the bolt, finding matching inserts is very straight forward. I actually tried some flat knurled knob type bolts for battery access (so I didn’t need any tools to do a quick battery swap) but I liked the back better flush and went with flat Phillips heads instead. I always keep a couple tools in my gig bag anyway.

I like this idea too.
 
this is really clever and not something i've ever thought of. Thanks for the idea.
When I recently installed the pickup and bridge covers on this (purely for aesthetics), I went right for the brass threaded inserts, just for that reason. Especially on the bridge cover, which will need to come off for every string change.

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Oops. But it was meant as a learning/practice thing on a cheap body before I start a full Warmoth build, and also that insert will hold more solidly than a wood screw into that same spot would have.