Bass repair book?

Until Arnold writes us one, the best book is Chuck Traeger's "How to Set Up a Bass for Optimum Sound".

Available at fine retailers everywhere including Metropolitan Music, Lemur Music & from the publisher himself, Henry Strobel, who has written a series of great books on violin family repair. http://www.henrystrobel.com/booklist.htm

 

Chuck's book rocks; it may be the best $85 that you'll ever spend on your bass.

j.
www.condino.com

 

What are you trying to show us in those pictures?

 

I got Chucks Book for $60 from either amazon or barnes and noble. It was well worth it. I also got some by henry (maybe hank) stroble about violins as well. Both are very good.

 

By the way: I've recently found some very old photos (1948) of Chuck Traeger, accidentally, showing him as an bass player.

 

Why so expensive? Is it a hard cover coffee table type book?

 

Even though it's certainly not an expensively-produced book (some of those photos -- ai yai yai), books are expensive to produce. And how many double bass repair books can somebody expect to sell, anyway? Thousands? Maybe over a decade you might sell in the thousands. In the short term it's probably closer to hundreds, if not scores or dozens. It's not like you're gonna get an Oprah wind or anything...

 

Thanks for the link Jonas, those are great old photos.

Its interesting to see Chuck playing a Kay with a bib on it too!

 

Think "textbook"--you would pay far more for a textbook with half the information. In my experience the book has paid for itself over and over. Someday, I am sure, there will be a book that tops it, but right now, it's the best available, as far as I know. The price is quite reasonable.

 

Sonix, The most obvious thing I notice the the outside edges of your feet don't fit the top contour. This is most likely because the legs were not spread apart by wedging a rod in there when fitting. And then when the string pressure was applied the feet spread and the the gap formed.

Personally, the Treager book is not helpful to me. I could go into the many reasons but lets just say, to each their own.

 

FYI, Sonix, Traeger's book was supposedly written with players in mind, not just luthiers. I've gleaned some info on working on a bass enough that I can set up an SP, know where the bridge feet should sit, simple things like that. Because of guys like Ken, I don't treat it as a bible but do look at it as a source for at least getting an idea of how to do something which I never knew what to do before in the first place. Then I come here and look at counter arguments and try to make a slightly more educated decision. My best success so far was doing minor fingerboard dressings on my own using a japanese scraper, a metal straight edge, and a homemade sanding block. All the high spots on my EUB are pretty much gone and I didn't take all that much wood off.

I don't have an expensive bass so it's a little easier feeling when I muck with it. Just work slow and you'll be able to do the little things - or at least get things in a situation where the bass is playable without damaging it too much and then be able to get to a qualified luthier later.

 

Like a bass is not only worth the cost of the wood, a book is not only worth the cost of the paper and printing. You pay the publisher/author for the content.
Traeger's book a very special interest book; there aren't many other books that cover this topic. So what's wrong about the price?
In fact, it is rather cheap – compared to other string instrument repair books which may cost up to 300 USD.

 

FYI, there's usually no need to spread the legs apart when fitting. The string pressure doesn't cause the legs of a "standard" bridge to spread in a "normal" setup situation.

-Trevor

 

Although it is usually not necessary to use a spreader when fitting bass bridges, it is no myth that a spreader is useful in fitting certain types of bridges on some instruments. It all depends on the design of the bridge and the instrument upon which the bridge is being fitted. I frequently use a bridge spreader when fitting Belgian style cello bridges especially if the instrument top table has a high arch.

 

Science and violins aren't good bedfellows.

I can't give you any science but having fitted many bridges I can tell you what works and what causes problems. Oh, but I could direct your attention to the photo at the top of this thread showing what happens when a spreader isn't used.

If there are adjusters in the legs, the spreader is not necessary.

Edit: I am having a crabby day....thus the following statement:

It seems kind of odd that you, who apparently have only watched a bridge being fit, would tell me, who has fit many and has to stake my reputation on proper fit, that it is not necessary. Or maybe you were just trying to dispel a myth for the good of those who like to watch their luthier work.

 

Hey Ken, how was he supposed to know that you're such a hot **** luthier? Your name and signature don't say anything.

 

oddment wood from making soundposts is commonly used for that. Cut the desired length and wedge it in between the bridge feet.
Another DIY tool is pictured here.