Bass restringing problem

[Paran0idAndroid]

Bass: Fender Classic Series '60s Jazz Bass

A week ago I noticed that I needed new strings for my bass. Finally bought the GHS Flea Signature Bass Boomers yesterday. So I removed my old bass strings and had a clean slate. I put the E string on and the fret buzz was unbearable. I don't know whether or not it is the strings or my bass. The neck seems fine (it's been the same since I bought it) and there's nothing wrong with the frets. I just want to have guidance from you guys before I take it to a shop. I don't want to pay for something I could've easily fixed. Thanks for the help guys!

 

[MovingPitchers]

What gauge did you get? It should say stuff like .45-.105 on the package.

Do the strings fit nice and snug on the nut? If it's too small, it'll cause some buzzing...if too big, it'll cause tuning and intonation problems.

Every string chance I adjust the saddle heights because I know it'll all be different for every set of strings I buy, even though I only buy .45-105 (standard).

 

[dannster]

The neck will return once all the strings are put on the neck. It is pulling against all those strings.
Necks move. Sometimes a lot. It won't snap like a twig.

 

[Redrama]

Pulling off all strings lets off A LOT of pressure from the neck which will make it bend backwards. Even if you put all the strings back, it will most likely still be in a different position than when you started. This is why you should replace one string at a time.

 

[awilkie84]

If you're trying to get a clear note from a neck with only 1 string on, you're going about it wrong. Your truss rod is adjusted for a neck under full tension from all the strings. You need to put the rest of the strings on, tune to pitch and then give your bass a full setup.

 

[gary m]

String up to pitch, and let sit for about ten minutes. Sight the neck, adjust if needed, and play. If the new gauges match closely to the old, it should be fairly close.

 

[tuba_samurai]

You need all the strings on and then you can adjust from there. I never take all strings off when I can help it. Call me crazy and it may do me no good, but I replace strings one at a time and have always had to tweak the setup a little bit, especially on different brands of strings.

 

[Leo Smith]

What everyone else has said.

It's better (easier, I think) to change the strings one at a time. Unless, of course, you need to clean the fingerboard, then everything must go.

Once all the new strings are on you may need to tweak the bridge saddles and truss rod a bit. No biggie. Have someone show you how to do it.

 

[Paran0idAndroid]

Hey guys thanks for the help it actually worked! I have one more problem though, the E string doesn't stay in the nut its hard for me to press down the 1st fret. How do I fix that?

 

[Bob-I]

Hey guys thanks for the help it actually worked! I have one more problem though, the E string doesn't stay in the nut its hard for me to press down the 1st fret. How do I fix that?

Sounds like the nut needs to be adjusted for the new strings. You'll need a proper gauge nut file or a decent tech.

 

[Paran0idAndroid]

Guys, I can't thank you enough. I would've wasted 20 bucks of my own money just to restring my bass if it wasn't for you guys. You all rock!

 

[dannster]

Your E string is probably bigger than your old E. You can use the string like a file and run it back and forth to widen the slot. Just be super careful not to go deeper.
Or you have gunk in your string slot.

If it's just a cheap plastic nut don't worry too much. Having a nice bone/brass/graphtech etc. nut installed is alway nice to do for yourself.

 

[GBassNorth]

I guess there's more than one way to skin a cat.
For string changes, I always remove all strings and thoroughly clean the bridge, tuning key and pickup areas, oil the neck and polish the body. Then I always put a little extra back bow in the neck. Once the strings are installed, thourougly streched and brought up to tune I check for fret buzz, which I should have because of the extra back bow I put in. I then loosen the truss rod as needed to stop the buzz in the upper frets, retune, check for buzz and then adjust the bridge to eliminate any buzz in the lower frets, retune and check again. When all is said and done I usually end up between 1/16 and 3/32 of gap between the bottom of the E string and the top of the 12th fret. Then I check the pickup height and set it for about a 3mm gap across the strings and increase or decrease that gap on each side of the pickup until volume is fairly balanced across all strings.

IME taking all strings off a neck for a short period of time while servicing the bass does no harm to the neck. And IMHO putting a little extra back bow in the neck before stringing the bass results in less stress on the truss rod nut since you'll be loosening the nut as needed to eliminate fret buzz as the string tension pulls the neck forward.

 

[Turnaround]

Pulling off all strings lets off A LOT of pressure from the neck which will make it bend backwards. Even if you put all the strings back, it will most likely still be in a different position than when you started. This is why you should replace one string at a time.

There is no need to do one string at a time. That is a myth that's been around a long time and there's no validity to it unless you intend to leave the strings off for an extended period of time (meaning more than a week or two). Take all the strings off and then give the instrument a good cleaning - fingerboard, frets and the body area that you can't get at very well when the strings are on. Don't forget to clean the junk out of the bridge while you are at it. Then restring, set the witness points, tune and check the neck relief and intonation, adjust the saddle heights if necessary and play on.

 

[DigitalMan]

Ensure that the E string is wound low and secure. The string should start with a 90 degree bent-end reaching down into the tuning peg hole at least 3/4 of an inch. The lower the winds are on the peg the better - two full revolutions around the peg on the E is my minimum. If the string departs the peg toward the nut any more than 2/3rds up the post it is leaving too high, will enter the nut too level, and cause all kinds of problems. From the nut to the tuning peg there should be downforce. The D and G strings are easy because the string retainer (round metal disk the strings go under) creates this automatically. With E and A it takes a little care and planning to get the job done right.

 

[MarkoYYZ]

I only ever took 2 lessons back when I was 17 or whatever and first starting. Lesson one was stringing and tuning with an intro into where to pluck the strings for different sounds. To someone it's the simplest and most obvious thing to wind the strings down the post, but unless you learn it from someone, you may not notice and repeat the way they were done before. Same thing could go for putting all strings on to reach proper tension on the neck before worrying about backbow or height adjustments.

This is the place to ask those questions, as rudimentary and obvious they may be to more experienced players, and remember to pay a good deed forward since others here took the time to do something to help you.

 

[awilkie84]

Ensure that the E string is wound low and secure. The string should start with a 90 degree bent-end reaching down into the tuning peg hole at least 3/4 of an inch. The lower the winds are on the peg the better - two full revolutions around the peg on the E is my minimum. If the string departs the peg toward the nut any more than 2/3rds up the post it is leaving too high, will enter the nut too level, and cause all kinds of problems. From the nut to the tuning peg there should be downforce. The D and G strings are easy because the string retainer (round metal disk the strings go under) creates this automatically. With E and A it takes a little care and planning to get the job done right.

Generally, you're more likely to have that kind of issue with A than the E. The Fender A string is notorious for open A buzz at the nut due to a shallow angle.