If you opt for a wheel, stay away from the ones where the axle is supported on only one side.
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Don, are these rated for bowing, or Boeing? Just curious, YLGMV, etc.Rock 'n ROLL!
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I use the Xeros wheel with the brake, because it's what my luthier had. I usually use it if I'm going to walk more than a block or so (and that's a wee Portland block I'm talking about), because why wouldn't I? It feels like most typical sidewalk shocks are absorbed if it's under-inflated. My bass is also newish and plywood, for what that's worth.
I haven't tried a buggy. On paper, it looks superior in a lot of situations. I do like that I can toss the wheel on the floor of my sedan while in transit... I guess that's one thing you can't do with a buggy. In a bigger vehicle, or on foot, that wouldn't matter.
Don, are these rated for bowing, or Boeing? Just curious, YLGMV, etc.
It had been a while since I'd seen a picture of the buggy, so I just looked it up again... and it looks like that would work with my car loading method after all. Thanks. The buggy would in fact save the time and wear factor of two screw/unscrew cycles per trip on the endpin socket.When I put the bass in a car, the buggy stays on.
It had been a while since I'd seen a picture of the buggy, so I just looked it up again... and it looks like that would work with my car loading method after all. Thanks. The buggy would in fact save the time and wear factor of two screw/unscrew cycles per trip on the endpin socket.
In my wife's Camry, it's head first through the passenger door, laying flat with the scroll end up near the rear passenger headrest. In my Corolla, it's similar, but on its side (for the sake of operating the manual transmission - I am the 1%). Either way, the wheel has to come off... I didn't take it off the first time, and the brake snapped my glove box handle. I don't think I'd need to remove the buggy for either method, and even if I did, it'd be less work than un- and re- installing the wheel.I don't know how you load you car, but we put the bass in through the tailgate head first with the Buggie still attached and wheels up-most. Then just semi-detach the Buggie at the end-pin and tuck it alongside with the straps still over the case to make room for closing the car up. All ready for re-attaching in a few seconds. So convenient.
As good as the Bass Buggy is, they don't work everywhere... Here are some ground surfaces where the Bass Buggy doesn't work...
1) Tall grass or brush
2) Snow
3) Soft sand
4) Gravel or rough rocks
As far as I can remember this is a DIY project.Rock 'n ROLL!
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Tru.As far as I can remember this is a DIY project.
Not Tru. It holds any "tension"(?) quite nicely. (Do you mean turning Left or Right?) The wheel in the photo is 25+ years old and has never experienced any type of structural failure.I‘m not sure the pipe t-piece can really hold the tension if leaned right or left
One should never have a need to put the "owner's weight" on the instrument...whether transporting or playing the bass.or when putting the owners weight on the instrument.
I don't miss a "brake" at all, and I'm always gently supporting the bass by holding 1 handle on my Mooradian bag, with the neck resting comfortably on my shoulder. It is not difficult, FYI.And a brake is missing, so just standing with the bass at a place for some time can get difficult.
The NY subway will make you want a brake real fast. That is when and why I got brakes for my wheels, when I lived in Boston and I was paying NYC a lot. I never felt I needed one on the West Coast, even with primarily using BART train n the Bay Area to get around.I don't miss a "brake" at all, and I'm always gently supporting the bass by holding 1 handle on my Mooradian bag, with the neck resting comfortably on my shoulder. It is not difficult, FYI.
All IMFE and IMFO, of course.