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Battery Drain with Active P'ups Forgetting to unplug

I've done enough live gigs, both as a player and running the FOH, that making an assumption like that is bound to get downstream gear damaged sooner rather than later.

Putting the device between the output sleeve and the electronics will not produce a different thump than if the cable was unplugged instead. You are creating difficulties that are already present. IMO it is a non-issue.
 
Putting the device between the output sleeve and the electronics will not produce a different thump than if the cable was unplugged instead.
Yes it will. The circuit you referenced with your torch will likely cause an output thump as it will simply apply power to the circuit, and not add a secondary delayed mute to the output. I'm an electronics engineer so I understand how the circuits actually work having designed a lot of linear electronics in my time.

You are creating difficulties that are already present.
I provided my opinion based upon long experience. You are free to do whatever you want as is anyone else reading this thread.
 
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Isn't this getting a bit ridiculous with switches, sensors and the like? Just unplug your bass after you are done. Get in the habit of doing so, if you aren't already. It seems like people are creating a solution for a problem that just isn't there. There is a switch, it is in the jack, it turns on and off depending on the condition "plugged in" or "not plugged in". Unplug your guitar, problem solved. It goes side by side with taking care of your instrument.

IMHO it is at the point where it is like people are complaining that their guitar gets damaged when they throw the guitar at their stand from across the room, because they don't want to walk over and place it in there gently. So now we have to work out solutions about how not to damage the guitar when throwing it, rather than walk over and place it in the stand. You know bubblewrap works fine, but foam even better, or we could have a makeshift pulley system that works on sensors to detect when it is close to the wall to activate the breaks... Or just take care of your gear, put it away properly. Turn it off by unplugging. Problem solved and it cost you a whopping $0, and saves you batteries in the long run, so $$ in your pocket to buy that "Le Big Mac". :)
 
SOLVED:

Op here.
So, I installed the mini toggle to kill the circuit to the jack. It was simple and makes things more convenient. Thank you to those who offered solutions.
Screenshot_20230815_094031_DuckDuckGo.jpg
 
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I have a version of it with two LEDs. One indicates that the thing is on, another turned off when voltage drops lover than 8V. No relays though. Pop is not too bad in my case.
Cool, I like the voltage tester idea. Relays aren't the only way to do this, was just trying to use the simplest example. You could also use FET switching instead of the mute relay, and the battery connect relay could be a switching transistor instead.
I do think the power-on & power-off delays are pretty important though, and are not difficult to do.

MY APOLOGIES. I made a big boo-boo my diagram in post ##130.View attachment 5157100

That'll basically work, but you have to always be careful to pause briefly at the middle switch position before unmuting.

Our main instruments amps and home theater amps have a time delay before the power amp signal is applied to the output connectors. The delay gives time for the sudden inrush of currents and voltage stabilizations to happen. Shortly after turning power on, a relay kicks in connecting the now stabilized amp signal path to the output connectors.

Exactly. That's what I was trying to say (apparently not clearly) in post #121 above. I've got an Adcom ACE-515 AC Enhancer that does this power sequencing, and had to repair it so got the Service Manual and schematic. It uses one Schmitt-trigger input NAND gate, a silicon-controlled rectifier, a relay, and a handful of diodes, resistors and capacitors for the 'Accessories' and another set for the "Power Amps'. Two more NAND gates for signal conditioning, etc. A pedal would use a MOSFET instead of a SCR, but basically the same idea.
 
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Passive or active, I just don't like leaving a cable attached to a bass where if I trip I can bring it crashing down or damage the socket or both.

That's the best reason for unplugging when you're finished playing, and I learned that from 'Tim the Stumbling Drunk' at a party several years before I even had a bass with a battery.
There's good reason that we've continued using the same system to connect a guitar to an amp since 1935 - it works fine for >99% of users, it's simple, and it's cheap.

But there's no need to stomp all over someone who might want to do something different.
 
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That'll basically work, but you have to always be careful to pause briefly at the middle switch position before unmuting.
Thanks for the second set of eyes. I'm trusting myself less and less the older I get LOL. Speaking of which...my corrected drawing had a mistake, too LOL. Left a ground off the Sleeve Contact (Jack) in the OFF section. I Boo-boo'd when correcting the first boo-boo. Duh... :). Here's update 2:
Active OnOff Switch.jpg

You're right, the middle position could be an issue for some. The drawing addressed the OP's issue mentioned in his first post of "...always forget to unplug my bass with active electronics which kills the 9v battery.". It's not a solution for everyone's needs and habits. This solution would probably only be used by a small niche of players. It's in my notes now if I ever buy an active bass again.

Exactly. That's what I was trying to say (apparently not clearly) in post #121 above.
I understood what you were saying. @Snert even mentioned the importance of the delayed output. My Subway D800+ has a relay or two I can hear clicking into place after the power switch is turned on. Even when turning off, the relay(s) waits a bit before clicking off.
 
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In my living room, I just set up a passive bass on the stand where an active bass used to sit, just so I wouldn't have to worry about unplugging it from the amp that's always on.

Ditto bingo me also too. Sire V5 five it is at chez-badinage.

During the dark times I also figured out I always want the output jack in/on the top (not on the edge) for couch-bassing.
 
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In my living room, I just set up a passive bass on the stand where an active bass used to sit, just so I wouldn't have to worry about unplugging it from the amp that's always on.
Ditto bingo me also too. Sire V5 five it is at chez-badinage.
I'm the same as you two. I have just one bass these days and it's passive (hated the preamp that was installed). Once done practicing, I put it in the stand, mute or turn off the amp, and walk away for awhile. Piss-breaks, lunch, walk the dogs, whatever. Normally unplug it before bed.

The switch I drew up is perfect for active bass folk with the same tendencies. Turn the bass off (silently with no battery drain), put bass in stand, mute or turn off amp, and walk away for awhile. And if I forget to unplug it before bed, the battery isn't sitting there draining.

Other folk have their own way of doing things, and that's cool.
 
A Neutrik angled plug at one end of the cable solved my couch problem, although it hasn't a zot to do with passive/active and forgetting to unplug. Angled plugs are severely underrated. They are the best ones for accidentally unplugging, even when stepping on the cable. You do not need any knots or wrap over of the cable on the strap end.
 
Putting the device between the output sleeve and the electronics will not produce a different thump than if the cable was unplugged instead. You are creating difficulties that are already present. IMO it is a non-issue.
Yes it will. The circuit you referenced with your torch will likely cause an output thump as it will simply apply power to the circuit, and not add a secondary delayed mute to the output. I'm an electronics engineer so I understand how the circuits actually work having designed a lot of linear electronics in my time.

I provided my opinion based upon long experience. You are free to do whatever you want as is anyone else reading this thread.

This appears to be a non-issue anyway, it's been 10 days and I haven't heard from the vendor.
 

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