I've had basses with scales up to 36". The B was from very good to great, but the best has been the Dingwall one IMO and IME
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IMO and IME (and according to the laws of physics) the scale makes a difference if all remaining parameters remain constant. If there was no such case, then the C note (pitch-wise) should have the same sound played on the 13th fret of a Low B, on the 8th fret of the low E and on the 3rd fret of the A. Another extreme example is to start detuning a string half a step at a time while fretting the string higher to keep the pitch contact. While the given note will still sound in pitch, the rest of the overtones will start muddy-ing up.
I do have to agree though, that any well made bass, when properly set-up, it will give you the best possible sound
I hear what your saying.
I agree.
My point is, a JP 33" scale 5-string.
And, a Stambaugh 33" scale 5-string.
I played, both had killer B strings.
Along with the Roscoe 34" 5-string.
I have no problem playing a 35" scale.
I beleive it is the sum of all the parts.
That make a great bass.
If Rob Allan made a 5-string 31" Mouse bass.
I thing because of that design, the B-string would sound very good.
As to say, a bad designed, 35" 5-string.
Just, food for thought?
I do have to agree though, that any well made bass, when properly set-up, it will give you the best possible sound
I hear what your saying.
I agree.
My point is, a JP 33" scale 5-string.
And, a Stambaugh 33" scale 5-string.
I played, both had killer B strings.
Along with the Roscoe 34" 5-string.
I have no problem playing a 35" scale.
I beleive it is the sum of all the parts.
That make a great bass.
If Rob Allan made a 5-string 31" Mouse bass.
I thing because of that design, the B-string would sound very good.
As to say, a bad designed, 35" 5-string.
Just, food for thought?

When comparing B-strings, isn't it important to note where you play? tension-wise this should make a difference. Maybe the reason bass X feels 'floppier' than bass Y is just because the neck pickup on bass X where you anchor the thumb is mounted further from the bridge.
As the owner of 2 Dingwall 5-string basses, I know what MY solution is. I'm a believer in physics--quantitative science.
All things being equal, the bass with the longer scale length will have higher tension at the same pitch.
Same thing with string gauge--the thicker the string, the higher the tension. Problem is, a string too thick will start to sound thuddy and dead.
I've played a TON of really nice 5-string basses and tended to be underwhelmed by most of them (Laklands are a notable exception) but the DIngwalls were the first basses where the B string sounded like everything I hoped or imagined that big fat string SHOULD sound like.
But back to the original post--I've also played and owned Modulus basses. While it wasn't the bass for me, the B string was pretty darn good--if the bass you played SUCKED, it was probably a bad string.
Still, my best advice is to go try a Dingwall. Those who go that route RARELY go back--the only person I've seen go back to a normal parallel-fretted bass was a guy who was playing a 4-string Dingwall but had some BEAUTIFUL early 60's Fenders that he couldn't quit.
I've found no better B string than the SR5.
.......
Went to GC Manhattan. Played a $3300 Modulus 6 string (name I can't recall) Sounded beautiful, too bad the B-string felt like a rubber band.
Played a 2 different Bongo 5's again floppy B's.
Played every 5 and 6 strings Fender and Ibanez in the joint and dammnit nothing worked.
Best fiver I played, in terms of a B-String, was a cheap Peavey...........
I am not so sure about some comments that the scale length is the least contributing factor to the sound of the B-string. Why would so many manufacturers go to a 35" scale (over 34") for their 5-string models?