and have a Dinger SJ5 ordered
Dingwall is making a Super Jazz 5? I was at the DW site yesterday and saw no such bass. This is good.
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Alaska Bass,
What about a Steinberger type 5 that doesn't have a nut ["zero fret"]?
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and have a Dinger SJ5 ordered
I'm not being sarcastic, but I don't understand your comment, please clarify what you mean.
I said nothing about tension. I understand that a given string at a given length must be at a given tension to produce a desired putch. But physical tension does not fully and solely equate to the "feel" of the string under your fingers. The overall rigidity of the structure certainly will impact the the "feel" of the B string (as well as the others to a lesser degree).
When you pluck a steel string, the instrument will deflect to some extent. The bass' resistance to this deflection absolutely impacts the feel of the string. Along with tone, sustain, etc.
Dingwall is making a Super Jazz 5? I was at the DW site yesterday and saw no such bass. This is good.
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Many five string basses that I have owned and played do not have a B string that matches the other strings. I don't fully claim understand why, but it their nature.
For the purpose of illustration, imagine a keyboard that when you hit the Eb, the sample changes.
Mass. The mass of the hex-core's you used was higher than the roundwound. (One of the reason's manufacturers started making them)
The higher mass allows for a higher tension to tune to the same frequency.
no, an hexagonal shape string core would be much harder to ''bend'' then a normal round core. it's like, ehh let's say, a double triangular frame.
Actually, the "rigidity/dampening characteristics resulting from the bass's (sic) structure and materials" have a lot to do with sustain, but have nothing to do with tension.
Scale length, desired frequency and string mass are the only three things that actually determine "Tension".
You are imagining that the bass body and neck are incapable of flexing. The only way that the three factors you name could be the "only" factors would be if the nut and bridge saddles were attached to a perfectly rigid inflexible surface. In reality however they are attached to a flexible system of different pieces of wood and other materials, often held together with bolts. I have owned a great many basses, and I know from personal observation that some of them were more flexible than others. It has also been my observation that the more rigid ones had tighter-feeling and tighter-sounding low E and B strings.
I know, you'll say "the string tightness is dependent only on the three factors I named"... but when a string is plucked, it vibrates not only itself but also the neck/body; and the two (or more) systems interact with each other, causing resonances and interferences, as well as literally altering the tension of the string during the vibration.
Floppy (as in overly moving) B strings come from too short a scale, too small a gauge, too light a tension. Period.
I believe our differences lie in the defining of feel. To me feel is a quantifiable thing, while tone, sustain, sound, etc. are seperate and also quantifiable things. It seems that you both feel differently.
I recognize the vast differences that woods and numerous other factors can have on the instrument and agree that any two, let alone three basses will sound different (electronics aside) in both tone and sustain due to factors outside of tension, mass, scale length and tuning frequency, and believe for the most part we may just be on different sides of the same coin.
Hey all
Lately I've been looking into funding a string purchase that happens to have more then 4 strings, such as a 5 or 6 string. Shopping around I haven't played a single one I like.
Went to GC Manhattan. Played a $3300 Modulus 6 string (name I can't recall) Sounded beautiful, too bad the B-string felt like a rubber band.
Played a 2 different Bongo 5's again floppy B's.
Played every 5 and 6 strings Fender and Ibanez in the joint and dammnit nothing worked.
Best fiver I played, in terms of a B-String, was a cheap Peavey. I was seriously going to consider it (how can a $300 bass beat out a $3300 one I don't know but hey) but upon closer inspection it had horribly uneven string response. I mean the E and B rang out loud and clear but the A and D sounded muffled and dead and then the G sounded like garbage. Hoping it was only that bass I swapped it out for another bass but it was the same problem.
Anyone know of any basses with a nice tight B?
First of all your idea of "tight" is subjective. To me all of the basses you named have very good B strings. Also, it's how the B string "plays" not how "tight" it feels.
I hope this helps. Let me know if it is not clear enough or if you don't understand the physics behind it.
+1I dunno, my Peavey Cirrus 5 tends to get touchy if I don't have a few coils along the tuner. I keep the action very low and get a lot of flop if I don't maximize my the breakaway angle at the nut. With more of an angle, the problem went away.
You've got some excellent points, but this one here is at least as confusing as some of the ones you've had trouble understanding, not to say contradictory, at least as written.The longer scale length allows for a lower fundamental frequency. The down-side to the longer length is the apparent looseness of the string, using the same mass string on a longer scale. To compensate for the additional flop and to allow for lower tuning, a string with more mass is needed. Additionally, the longer scale length requires a higher tension on the string to create the same frequency. If the instrument is quality built, the neck will be stiff enough to allow for a higher tension without damage to the instrument, thus allowing for a higher mass B string, which will give a more pleasant and clearer sounding tone (more fundamental tone, less overtone).