• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join free Log in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Bees wax for Warwick natural finish?

#3
the bass needs to be waxed to retain moisture since it isn't finished.
just rub a little on, let it dry, rub it off....just like a car.
it will keep the instrument more stable in environments with humidity changes, give it longer life, and of course also keep it from looking like ass. it is a necessary part of upkeep for that instrument.
done properly, it will not be sticky.
 
#4
Read the manual, it has proper procedure to avoid stickiness. The purpose of the wax is to keep the wood in good condition. After paying $1800 for a bass, one would think you'd want to keep it in good shape, but it's your bass to neglect if you can't be bothered.
 
#5
coreyfyfe said:
Read the manual, it has proper procedure to avoid stickiness. The purpose of the wax is to keep the wood in good condition. After paying $1800 for a bass, one would think you'd want to keep it in good shape, but it's your bass to neglect if you can't be bothered.
Click to expand...

My Hanewinckel has a natural oil finish, and Pete recommends using Howard Feed-N-Wax. It is a blend of beeswax, carnauba wax, and orange oil. I haven't tried it yet because Pete also recommends doing it in a well-ventilated area (hard to come by during an Ohio winter) with gloves. :D
 
#6
I've used Bees Wax on a natural Koa bodied Peavey Dyna Bass (circa '88?) with very good results. Every 2 months or so I'd do it. The wood will start to look dry and slightly ashy...that's when I'd do it. Rubbed the wax in nicely, wait about 15 minutes and the rub off with a clean towel. Bees wax will not make it sticky.
 
#7
That's too bad that you can't be bothered to take care of that beautiful instrument that you just paid good money for.

Personally, I kind of like to wax my Warwick. It always looks great when it's done and feels great too. Not sticky either.
 
#8
bassplayer7770 said:
My Hanewinckel has a natural oil finish, and Pete recommends using Howard Feed-N-Wax. It is a blend of beeswax, carnauba wax, and orange oil. I haven't tried it yet because Pete also recommends doing it in a well-ventilated area (hard to come by during an Ohio winter) with gloves. :D
Click to expand...

Sounds like great wood-feeding wax to me! I presume the ventilated area is due to the Carnauba being dissolved in petroleum distillates. My personal choice for wood-feeding is lemon oil and bore oil. Pure lemon oil works quite nicely but it tends to evaporate fairly rapidly (month or so) so to keep from being bothered by having to re-oil the wood regularly I also apply some bore oil. Bore oil is what woodwind people use down the bore of clarinets etc. Since this is liquid it goes on easy without lots of rubbing and seems to last a long time.

But then I'm not much of a player so I like to have my instrument looking good. A true talent, on the other hand will have playing so spectacular that there is no need to worry about how the wood looks. If it's all dried out or even better has some decent cracks and splits developing in it all the better to show that you are so good you can't be bothered or even care what condition your instrument is in. Your massive talent overpowers all other considerations!

[Yeah, I know I let him set me off, but I presume that was what JC JC was trying to do!] :scowl:
 
#10
devo_stevo said:
That's too bad that you can't be bothered to take care of that beautiful instrument that you just paid good money for.

Personally, I kind of like to wax my Warwick. It always looks great when it's done and feels great too. Not sticky either.
Click to expand...

It's really a great strain, but I'm not gonna say anything. I'm not going to comment on Waxing your Warwick. I've already been kicked out of too many moderated forums...
:)
 
#13
it requires waxing, because if not the unfinished body will absorb your sweat at parts where your body comes in contact with the wood.

this will change the wood's color over time, at those parts where your body touches the wood, and it's going to look ugly when only some parts of the wood changes color and the rest of the wood remains the same color.

so you don't need to wax it if :

(1) you don't sweat a lot when you play

(2) you don't mind the color change and color difference on the wood at those specific parts.

yeah, the unfinished body requires high maintainence, and this is my primary problem with warwick basses with unfinished wood.

as compared with other basses with poly finish, all you need to do is to wipe it down with a soft cloth after you play, that's all you have to do, sometimes you just play and put it down, no need for extra waxing ever.
 
#15
bassplayer7770 said:
My Hanewinckel has a natural oil finish, and Pete recommends using Howard Feed-N-Wax. It is a blend of beeswax, carnauba wax, and orange oil. I haven't tried it yet because Pete also recommends doing it in a well-ventilated area (hard to come by during an Ohio winter) with gloves. :D
Click to expand...

+1 on Howards

I use their Feed-N-Wax for the body wood and Orange Oil for fingerboards. You don't have to do it very often.

Ventilation or gloves? That's crazy. The stuff smells great.
 

Latest posts

Top Bottom
Back