Is there an advantage to doing all this instead of just getting a new bridge? I'm wondering why you guys bother to straighten an old one instead of just replacing it....
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Double Bass Bent Bridge - how to go?
- Thread starter ctrlzjones
- Start date
I figured maybe it was sound based reasoning or something.
Man, 250... Remind me not to shop for bridges where you do!
Well, a good new bridge isn't cheap, and the luthier will rightfully charge for fitting it. The straightened bridge shouldn't take any work to reinstall.
Yeah, I wasn't taking instillation costs into consideration there. That makes sense. My Kay bridge was bent like that when I got it, but I got an adjustable bridge for around a hundred bucks and put it in myself. Luckily (or unluckily) I had enough problems with my first bass by then I was versed enough for that.
So is there any sound advantage to old bridges? And what's the general thinking by you guys on adjustable or non-adjustable bridges? I have heard folks say the adjustable bridges don't sound as good.... maybe another reason to straighten um back up, or is that horse puckey?
Several years ago I bought a Czech Ease bass from David Gage in NY that sounded great in the shop but had an older bridge with holes drilled in it to accommodate a Wilson pick-up, so I had them install a new bridge. When the bass arrived with the new bridge, it never sounded as good as it had in the shop with the older Wilson-drilled bridge. Of course, it could have been other factors...
On my Upton Standard with a removable neck, I have several times alternated between a solid bridge and a bridge with adjusters to accommodate different pick-ups. Whenever I switch to the solid bridge the bass seems to gain some volume and presence. Of course, whichever bridge I use, the ear seems to adjust to whatever is the new normal.
On my Upton Standard with a removable neck, I have several times alternated between a solid bridge and a bridge with adjusters to accommodate different pick-ups. Whenever I switch to the solid bridge the bass seems to gain some volume and presence. Of course, whichever bridge I use, the ear seems to adjust to whatever is the new normal.
The only "sound advantage" of an old bridge would come from its being a better bridge, or better fitted, than the new one.
In re adjustable/nonadjustable: I believe the difference, if it exists at all, is extremely minimal. Any bridge will absorb - not transmit - a certain amount of vibration. We can't really generalize based on a few examples. IMHO the convenience of being able to adjust far outweighs any loss of vibration.
Aaah. Instant straightness. Like Ramen. That’s interesting.
Did you do anything to prevent burning? Did you take multiple steps? Could it break when not being wet (=elastic)?
And it also makes one think if the same can be achieved with an iron.
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If you use an iron then lay a damp cloth over the concave side of the bridge and iron it dry. Repeat until the back of the bridge is straight then wedge and clamp until dry.
I just heated it slowly, cranking the vise slowly, all in one long step. Maple doesn't ignite easily, and it didn't smell like it was burning. I'm sure an iron would work, see David's method above.
So much common sense that one does not think of and need to be told.
Thank you both, most helpful.
Thank you both, most helpful.
