I just bought this DB and I noticed it has a bent endpin post where the tailpiece is looped around, should be worried about it? Im afraid it's going to rip out and reck it.
My first impression is of a poorly fit taper in the end block, possibly a replacement endpin with a different taper, or a soft end block that's giving ground and opening up the taper. This condition isn't uncommon, although yours is tilted more than most I've seen. With continuous pressure, over time the wood of the block compresses, and the softer the block the more it will give. If you can look inside at the block (with a light and mirror, or dangle your phone in there and shoot a flash photo), you'll be able to see whether the block is actually cracked, which is possible but not likely. I have to say that in the photo the whole bottom of the bass seems distorted, is that an illusion?
I looked inside and it doesn't seem to be cracked, just a poor fit, and the distortion is not an illusion, that's just how it seems to be I guess. So judging that its just being a poor fit, should I be worried with it pulling out? I'm fairly new to bass
It hasn't pulled out yet, so it's not likely to pull out due to the pull of the strings. It is looser than it should be, though, at least in one direction. Does it fall out when you loosen the strings? If so, you'll probably want to get it fixed.
You might be able to shim it with cork tape. Loosen the strings before you mess with it of course, being aware of soundpost and bridge considerations (understand how to set it back up before you take it apart if it's your first time doing so).
Also, the tailgut is in the wrong place. It's supposed to go around the groove in the wooden part. How it is now causes even more bending force. You need to shim the hole, but cork tape isn't the best choice since it compresses. Emory cloth is often used.
I have seen basses where there was no taper in the hole, when you remove the tension to move the gut up to where it belongs, check to make sure there is a taper to the hole. (If the end pin will wobble in all directions more or less equally). If that is the case, wind your shim material at an angle so it is creating a more or less straight shaft where the taper used to be, this should stay in and spread the strain on the block and make the pin more stable.
This is strange, I just took it apart and noticed, its a pretty tight fit? The hole it's self is drilled at a slight angle for some reason causing the endpin to tilt. I also did notice that the hole opens up a bit at the end which gives the cork a bit a space to move. Is this much more serious?
Not serious, just ugly. The front wall of the taper has compressed, and it looks like the original drilling was hasty at least. Shimming the taper could improve the angle a bit and reduce movement, but this looks like a young bass and there's a good chance it'll continue to compress. If the fit is still tightish you can be confident that nothing catastrophic will happen because of it, at least.
That's pretty rough. Are the ribs even actual wood? It looks like some kind of processed fibre material, and the block looks way too thin. What I'm about to say will probably ruin my reputation in the bass repair world, get me banned from this group, and kill my business, but I'd say your best bet is to just glue the socket in with epoxy!
On further thought, you could wrap the socket in cling wrap before setting it into the epoxy. That would make it removable. I don't see any way to get a good stable socket hole in this bass without epoxy though.
Most Courageous Post on TB, in this century. Thanks Don. I'm getting ornery in my old age and seem to worry less and less about what people think of me.