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Best cable for the money?

#62
Used to be a chart online that dealt with signal loss and filtering action of cabling per gauge at 100', 500' and 1000' length run, but my bookmark now point to a dead site unfortunately. Don't have the time to search now, sorry, but maybe google could turn up another?

The gist of it, probably already covered in this thread, is that the combination of resistance and capacitance in cable constitute, in effect, a low-pass filter. There should be a formula to calculate this in, if I'm not mistaken, the Yamaha Sound Reinforcement Handbook.
 
#63
200 feet (100' back & forth) of 20 gauge is 2.4 ohms. 200 feet (100' back & forth) of 28 gauge is 15.3 ohms. Those are large differences when viewed in isolation. But when viewed as part of a bass/cable/amp input system, not so much.

I don't yet see the electrical/eclectronic basis of your stating that cable gauge is a factor.
 
#64
What's your point exactly? That the difference between 20 and 28 gauge in a typical 20 footer run make no discernible difference? I agree, as much as you seem to want one, you'll not get an argument from me.

Or that gauge make no difference whatsoever under any circumstances? Well, I disagree with that, but not to the point of getting into a pointless argumentation.
 
#65
bullshark said:
<snip> I surmise that if the right gauge and proper shielding is used, you'd have to have a very very long run, way longer than what is typically used, before it gets noticeable to an human ear.
Click to expand...

I read that to say that the right wire gauge would not have a sonic difference.

And thereby inferred it to also mean the wrong gauge would.

And disagreed.

And inquired into your statement.

And provided data.

And essentially got accused of trying to start a pointless arguement.
 
#68
HitByABlimp said:
It surprises me nobody has said anything about the BASS being ACTIVE or PASSIVE. With passive basses the added capacity or impedance of the cable is 'seen' directly by the pickups. This WILL affect your sound according to what cable you use.
Active basses have a buffered output. So the pickups see the pre-amp (always the same) and pre-amp sends it's signal, usually amplified, to your amp. In this case, a different cable has much less influance on the sound.

*EDIT*
+1 on the comment about NOT running your signal through your tuner. If you even consider bying an expensive cable for 'tone-reasons', a clean and short-as-possible signal path from your bass to your amp is the first thing you need to take care of.
Click to expand...

Of course its just like putting a capacitor in parallel with your pickups on passive basses.

Thats why I'd never use the Monster Bass Cable especially on a passive bass.
 
#69
bullshark said:
What's your point exactly? That the difference between 20 and 28 gauge in a typical 20 footer run make no discernible difference? I agree, as much as you seem to want one, you'll not get an argument from me.

Or that gauge make no difference whatsoever under any circumstances? Well, I disagree with that, but not to the point of getting into a pointless argumentation.
Click to expand...

The DC Resistance difference on a passive Bass would be negligable.

The LCR Z is will be effected, by gauge, distance from shield to Center, and the dielectric (insulation material).

Capacitance increases with length, as well as DC Resistance.

Not that we typically worry about LCR Z of the cable for audio, which is normally a constant ~52 (Belden instrument cabe) Ohms for some strange reason. Close to the 50 Ohm RF standard. But impedance matching and maximum power transfer is not typically the goal with electric bass cables.
 
#70
i have a ProCo LifeLine 18' cable that i've been using constantly for 13 years.. and it has Switchcraft ends.. it's worked non-stop..

i'd like to have some original 80's Bill Lawrence cables with the solderless brass ends.. those, IMO, were the best cables ever.. i don't think that GeorgeL's are the same as those original BL cables..
 
#72
Death Valley Cable Company is the brand I use.
Handmade, actually custom made to your specs (terminals, length, finish: gold or nickel).
It costs $35 for a 20 ft cable. Not exactly cheap, but very reasonable, and handmade in the good old USA.

The idea of making them at home make sense if you can solder and have time to get the components.
 
#73
My most expensive cable is my Monster Bass cable...and I can't tell the difference in sound between that and my "cheaper" cables. AND more importantly, my audience can't hear the difference!

I would stay away from Horizon, "Musician's Friend's" generic version or Rapco cables because of my bad experiences with them.

I would highly recommend figuring out your DESIRED length for a cable between your guitar and amp (the shorter, the better, and less than 20')...and order a George L cable.
 
#75
For argument's sake, let's say that they DO all sound the same. However, the cable itself and the connectors are not all MADE the same.

For example, I have a very nice cable (so I thought) that is totally microphonic! You can hear it moving and banging on the floor quite readily through the speaker. I couldn't figure out where those noises were coming from. You can be sure that the shielding and overall construction is not so good. Most likely the connectors will fall apart with a good yank.

I find that the Planet Waves cable to be way too stiff, but I do like the connector with the mute switch. Those or Neutriks on some double shielded, flexible Mogami cable is definitely the best buy.

And - EVERYTHING Monster sells is horribly over-priced and over-rated.
 
#76
Anyone try ZZYZX Snap Jack- i got one at the local music store. seems to sound as good as the Peavy i had and it has a Strong magnetic connection - if you should break the connection it doesnt make a sound . cost 40 bucks and has 4 year warranty.
 
#77
Portland Music Company has a 'house' brand of cable with a lifetime warranty.

They are quality cables for not much more then the bargain bin cables, and their logo is printed on the cable so you don't have to keep receipts, you just bring or send them a broken cable and the give you a new one.
 
#78
Derek Kiernan said:
Bill still offers [Invalid or Expired Link Removed]. I don't know if it's exactly the same cable. They're certainly my favorite and offer amazing value.
Click to expand...


it's not the same cable.. the GeorgeLs cables are closer to what the original BL cables were.. but they are different also..

i have the current BL cables.. they are great.. but they are really intended for cabling racks/pedal boards IMO.. not as instrument cable.. the outer jacket on the cable is very thin and easily cut.. and it's very thin cabling.. the ends are great, i wish they were cheaper.. ;)

they are very transparent sounding cables..
 
#79
from my bass to my amp, I use one of those Vox coiled "vintage" cables. Mostly because I think the coiled cable looks rad, sort of like you are chained to the amp. Its also a really well made cable. Fairly expensive, though.

For the effects loop and power cables, I just use some cables I found on Amazon from a brand called C.B.I.
 
#80
Toptube said:
from my bass to my amp, I use one of those Vox coiled "vintage" cables. Mostly because I think the coiled cable looks rad, sort of like you are chained to the amp. Its also a really well made cable. Fairly expensive, though.

For the effects loop and power cables, I just use some cables I found on Amazon from a brand called C.B.I.
Click to expand...

I think the coiled cables actually have some of the worst capacitance ratings but don't quot me on that.
 

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