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Double Bass Best/Correct method for fitting bridge feet?

raymondmusic

Supporting Member
Commercial User
Sep 13, 2025
3
3
www.raymondmusic.com
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Owner/Repair Tech - Raymond Music
Hi all!

I'm primarily a woodwind and brass repair tech, but I've been learning more orchestral string repairs recently to be able to set up my own inventory and help local schools with repairs. My most recent adventure is fitting a new bridge to a double bass. The sandpaper with jig method works well for violins, but I know that's not really the best way on basses, so I've been trying to do it with carbon transfer paper and a knife. I tried the lipstick method as well, but it didn't seem to transfer well. So far, I've found that using the knife as a scraper is working best, but is pretty slow. Any videos or resources I should look into would be greatly appreciated but here's some issues I'm running into:

- Trying to carve material with a knife, chisel, or plane seems to just gouge it or take off too much material. This is almost certainly due to my technique, so any tips are appreciated.
- The instrument I'm working on is very worn and ragged, so the area that the feet sit isn't smooth or uniform. Is it possible/acceptable to smooth out this area or add/remove some of the finish to get it smoother?
- For bridges with adjusters, I've read that it's better to get a solid bridge, fit it, then cut it and install adjusters. And for bridges with built in adjusters, to glue the two parts together, fit as normal, then cut it again and reinstall adjusters. Is that still the way to do it, or is there another good method? I initially tried fitting the feet by themselves, but it didn't go very well once I put it together with the rest of the bridge, since the angle of the feet changed.
- I've seen some mention of taping the carbon paper to the top, so it doesn't move when putting the bridge on it. What type of tape should be used? I tried painter's tape but it removed some of the finish, so I'm guessing there's a better type to use.

Hopefully these aren't silly questions! If I'm better off just doing a lot of trial-and-error, let me know and I'll shut up and start tinkering! Just hoping to learn it the right way, or get some ideas on more efficient methods. Thanks!
 
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Reactions: james condino
I am also a former woodwind repair tech and piano tuner coming to luthier stuff later in the game. It lays down the basics in a language that is very easy to follow, and you’ll need to know/reference all this stuff. The caveat is when he starts talking about ‘mode-matching’ (basically tuning the pitches of various components of your axe) — it’s some high-falootin’ mumbo jumbo that probably has a lot of validity to it (or not). He says some stuff about wooden endpins and hardwood sound posts that you can take or leave. Arnold Schnizer’s brief book is also excellent, albeit less comprehensive.
 
I am also a former woodwind repair tech and piano tuner coming to luthier stuff later in the game. It lays down the basics in a language that is very easy to follow, and you’ll need to know/reference all this stuff. The caveat is when he starts talking about ‘mode-matching’ (basically tuning the pitches of various components of your axe) — it’s some high-falootin’ mumbo jumbo that probably has a lot of validity to it (or not). He says some stuff about wooden endpins and hardwood sound posts that you can take or leave. Arnold Schnizer’s brief book is also excellent, albeit less comprehensive.
Ok perfect, thanks for the info. I'll pick up a copy and check it out
 
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Reactions: JBarz
Long time ago, but we'd use a contour gage on the top at the bridge location, pencil mark the contour onto the bridge feet and cut on a band saw. Lay a sheet of(I think)120 grit sandpaper on the top over where the bridge goes, set the bridge where it goes, and move the bridge side to side on the sandpaper, making the feet conform to the top. Take care to keep bridge upright and in position. Skilled application of Dremel/Foredom tools could help too.
 

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