Best power amp (for bass) ??

[Thumpa Bassie]

Hey all,

I have contemplated the Crown series power amps (namely XLS 1500 ) and the QSC line (GX5). Both seem reasonably priced and produce a great deal of power based on the specs.

Any suggestions? Thanks TB family!

~Thumpa

 

[_Elf]

If you are looking at Class D stuff like the XLS there is also the [Invalid or Expired Link Removed].

Of the two you listed I think the Crown has more features but I think it also achieves this with DSP and associated AD/DA conversion (and is Class D vs. the GX5 being Class H). I'm not actually sure about the DSP, it just seemed to be implied. I couldn't say if any of that has a noticeable effect on the sound, but I doubt it. Build quality on the QSC seems a very tiny amount better than the Crown, not that the Crown is bad. They're both the same price as you may have noticed.

Unfortunately I don't have enough actual use experience with either of them to make a recommendation, other than being in the market for something similar myself. I am thinking about getting a power amp for a bi-amp setup and sort of leaning towards the QSC RMX1450 (Class AB) at the moment.

 

[BBEgo]

I've been using the Carvin DCM3800 for the last 4yrs, and it has been amazing. Way more power than I needed, but what a monster of an amp!

 

[BassmanPaul]

Another consideration should be the input sensitivity of the power amp.. If whatever you use to drive the power amp is unable to supply the required input voltage, you are not going to be happy with the system.

 

[will33]

I've never had anything but good strong sound and reliability from QSC. I've no experience with the new stuff because the old stuff refuses to die.

As far as poweramps go, most just amplify what they're given. Isn't really a "best one for bass", though some really cheap/budget stuff may suffer in the lowend due to underspec'd power supplies or other corners cut in the design.

Input sensitivity may be one thing to consider depending on what preamps you have, though if something can't drive any typical poweramp, I wouldn't really call it a preamp.

Some have other add-on features, like crossover, filters, DSP, etc. if you need that.

 

[johnpbass]

Had great results with a Peavey IPR - non DSP. Simple to set up and use, clean power, inexpensive, and LIGHT!

 

[DigitalMan]

Another consideration should be the input sensitivity of the power amp.. If whatever you use to drive the power amp is unable to supply the required input voltage, you are not going to be happy with the system.

My inevitable chime in on this point. Absolutely true. Some preamps and power amps seem designed with the assumption of a mixer up or downstream. A simple line mixer can mitigate input sensitivity.

Crown class D amps are excellent, but are known for wanting a substantial input signal. I chose Crown over QSC based on quiet operation. The QSC demonstrated more hum and sibilant noise in my home studio.

 

[NOVAX]

I had a whiz tell me:
"Look for a high dampening factor and
a low slew rate"
Or was it the other way around? Oh well, regardless I bought a Carvin DCM1000. (Older model not an 'L') based on that criteria, the opulent I/O and the excellent price.

Here are the pre's that match up quite nicely with the Carvin.

 

[wmhill]

I have used a Peavey IPR 1600 for several years, with great success. Very transparent sounding, decent amount of headroom and weighs 7lbs. I used it at 4ohms (one side only) and got a bunch of clean, loud and punchy tone. I have used a QSC gx3 and thought it sounded awful (same pre-amp).

 

[xring]

I used an XLS1500 for a couple of years. It was ample to push my cabs, but available power was underwhelming to say the least, unless bridged. I now have the Crest Pro-Lite 3.0. The best example I can give of the difference is this...The Crown attenuators were always run full up, even when bridged. My pres were cranked to provide a decent signal. With the Crest, my pre levels are where they should be for a good s/n ratio, and the amp attenuators are at about 30% up at gig volume. I'm currently running an Art Pro Channel, and am 100% happy with my rig.

 

[Fuzzbass]

Another consideration should be the input sensitivity of the power amp.. If whatever you use to drive the power amp is unable to supply the required input voltage, you are not going to be happy with the system.

This is part of the reason why "best" rarely exists in the real world. You have to balance a bunch of factors, including but not limited to:

• How much can you spend?
• How much power do you need?
• What cabinets will you use (helps determine #2)?
• What preamp(s) will you use in front of the power amp?
• What features do you want (bridge mono, DSP, HPF, etc etc)?

I'm not trying to make this too complicated... but in short, the more you know in advance, the better decision you'll make.

 

[johnpbass]

I had a whiz tell me:
"Look for a high dampening factor and
a low slew rate"
Or was it the other way around? Oh well, regardless I bought a Carvin DCM1000. (Older model not an 'L') based on that criteria, the opulent I/O and the excellent price.
View attachment 478641
Here are the pre's that match up quite nicely with the Carvin.

VERY nice selection of pre's there NOVAX! You've got it pretty much all covered there!

 

[NOVAX]

Thanks- I'm gassing for a
BBE T-Max to pop into that
last spot.

 

[jjmf]

I'm also considering getting a power amp to supplement my amp (which will vary from MB Sa450, LH1000, and others in future) while some D class are now going to 2 ohms - what I would prefer is a clean clear, articulate punchy sound that allows powering Berg AE 210's and 410's - so I want 800 watts a 4ohms and 1600w at 2ohm loads regardless of what I use for preamping - for example if I run my SA450 at 4 ohms to power 1 cab, regardless, I want to power 2 more @ 4ohms & 800w each

Id like to keep it light - and cost efficient and find my local options to be Behringer (cheap with lots of watts) Crown, QSC and Cerwin vega - Like what I hear about Crest - but hard to find locally

My preference is to get the best sounding amp - but would like to keep it light weight - and its hard to test out many etc -
so any input about punchy clear sound by brand and by amp type (ie D class vs Heavier alternatives) is appreciated

I often thought for the low cost - a behringer I nuke seems to be a lot of power per $ spent...
thoughts?

 

[Cirk]

It's cheaper to do it right once than wrong twice. Get the good stuff.

 

[Dave Hill]

Crest Prolite. Bridged with dedicated Speakon out.

 

[jjmf]

Crest Prolite. Bridged with dedicated Speakon out.

thanks Dave Hill - interesting - does the pro-lite line have the weighty depth of the CA line or 200's? (ie 7200 etc), for my needs the pro-lite 3 would provide the right power needs....

It's cheaper to do it right once than wrong twice. Get the good stuff.

Thanks Cirk, has any one tried the Low cost I-nukes & had trouble with them? or did they lack punch/clarity?

appreciate the input and experience I haven't got

thanks to all

 

[agedhorse]

Crest Prolite. Bridged with dedicated Speakon out.

How do you propose doing this into 2 ohms without destroying the amp? (Not going to work)

 

[jjmf]

How do you propose doing this into 2 ohms without destroying the amp? (Not going to work)

I think youre right - it would need to be a Pro-lite 3 -in stereo, so I can go 4 ohms per side, or even 2 ohms / side at 1650w at run 4 x 800w 4 ohm cabs (2 per side) - now that's lots o speaker pushing! (But no bridging as you suggest)

!!!!

 

[agedhorse]

Just be careful for your speaker's sake.