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Best way to drill through nitro?

phishaholik

phishaholik

Aug 20, 2005
2,044
611
46
Portland, Oregon
#1
I have a Fender Classic 50's P-bass that I want to put a US pickguard on and have to drill some holes. What's the best way to drill through the nitro paint without having it chip? I was planning on putting some blue painters tape on it before I drilled, but I'm not really sure how well that's gonna work.


Any advice?


Michael
 
#3
When i did it in the past, i either put masking tape over the area i wanted to drill, to avoid any cracks to the finish.... Although the best way i've found is making a small hole, and then using a step drill bit to widen it. Once it is the desired diameter you should be able to drill through without the risk of any cracking. Hope that helpes:)
 
#4
phishaholik said:
I have a Fender Classic 50's P-bass that I want to put a US pickguard on and have to drill some holes. What's the best way to drill through the nitro paint without having it chip? I was planning on putting some blue painters tape on it before I drilled, but I'm not really sure how well that's gonna work.


Any advice?


Michael
Click to expand...
Which Classic 50's P? There are 2. 1 with poly & 1 with Nitro. If you don't want to drill, use a vintage style guard with 11 holes. Should line up. If you're going to drill anyways, mask off the area you're drilling and use a small bit first for a pilot hole.
 
#6
Thanks for the help guys! I never thought of using a stepped drill bit for this. I'll have to check with my father-in-law to make sure he has one.

It is a MIM Classic 50's with the nitro finish. I already bought 13 hole pickguard to use with it, so I need to drill the holes. I also purchased a Gotoh bridge for it, and I didn't realize at the time that it has two mounting holes in front of the saddles along with the 5 in the rear.


Thanks again!

Michael
 
#7
I don't think blue tape is safe for nitro, I would double check that before putting it on your body. You need dark green if I remember correctly, regular painters tape will harm the finish.

Ensure you drill a pilot hole before you start screwing.
 
#11
DiabolusInMusic said:
I don't think blue tape is safe for nitro, I would double check that before putting it on your body. You need dark green if I remember correctly, regular painters tape will harm the finish.

Ensure you drill a pilot hole before you start screwing.
Click to expand...



Thanks man!!!!!! I would have thought that the blue painter's tape would be safer, but I just did a google search and there a bunch of threads on guitar forums from people that ruined their finish.

I probably would have only had it on there for a couple of minutes, but there's a good chance that you just saved me a ruined finish.


Thanks!!!!


Michael
 
#13
phishaholik said:
Thanks for the help guys! I never thought of using a stepped drill bit for this. I'll have to check with my father-in-law to make sure he has one.

It is a MIM Classic 50's with the nitro finish. I already bought 13 hole pickguard to use with it, so I need to drill the holes. I also purchased a Gotoh bridge for it, and I didn't realize at the time that it has two mounting holes in front of the saddles along with the 5 in the rear.


Thanks again!

Michael
Click to expand...
Leave the top 2 mounting holes on the Gotoh out. Also, that threaded saddle bridge is much better than the gotoh's going to be.
 
#14
themarshall said:
Um, are you talking about drilling for pickguard screws? I don't know if there are step bits that go that small.
Click to expand...
Yeah, pickguard and for the bridge as wel
awilkie84 said:
Leave the top 2 mounting holes on the Gotoh out. Also, that threaded saddle bridge is much better than the gotoh's going to be.
Click to expand...


I can't leave those two screws out. For some reason when I tighten the rear screws, it makes the front of the bridge pop up. I checked the bottom of the bridge and it is completely flat, so I'm not really sure what's up with that. I think I'm going to have to install the bridge screws like neck screws and screw them in across from each other.

This is the bridge I bought.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/111397642619?lpid=82

I just bought the bare body, so I don't have any of the other parts.


Michael
 
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#16
phishaholik said:
Yeah, pickguard and for the bridge as wel



I can't leave those two screws out. For some reason when I tighten the rear screws, it makes the front of the bridge pop up. I checked the bottom of the bridge and it is completely flat, so I'm not really sure what's up with that. I think I'm going to have to install the bridge screws like neck screws and screw them in across from each other.

This is the bridge I bought.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/111397642619?lpid=82

I just bought the bare body, so I don't have any of the other parts.


Michael
Click to expand...
Look into the Gotoh 201, then. It's a direct Vintage mount, without extra screws, or make sure your ground wire is flush, as stated above.
 
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#17
awilkie84 said:
Look into the Gotoh 201, then. It's a direct Vintage mount, without extra screws, or make sure your ground wire is flush, as stated above.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip, but I wanted to use this one instead of the 201. I plan on using flats on this bass and I don't want the extra sustain of a high mass bridge and wanted to go with the old school bent plate style. I don't mind drilling the extra holes.

I don't think the wire was causing the bridge to lift, but I need to look at it in better light. I took the bridge back off until I have time to really devote to it, unlike last night when I tried to get a little done whilst my wife put the baby to bed.


Michael
 
#18
phishaholik said:
Thanks for the tip, but I wanted to use this one instead of the 201. I plan on using flats on this bass and I don't want the extra sustain of a high mass bridge and wanted to go with the old school bent plate style. I don't mind drilling the extra holes.

I don't think the wire was causing the bridge to lift, but I need to look at it in better light. I took the bridge back off until I have time to really devote to it, unlike last night when I tried to get a little done whilst my wife put the baby to bed.


Michael
Click to expand...
In my experience, the 201 doesn't add any sustain. I was somewhat disappointed when I switched my bent plate off my MIM P. It didn't do anything to the sound.
 
#19
On the note of tape, I have found the copper tapes I use for shielding to use an adhesive that is safe for nitro. I would test this in the control cavity or somewhere prior to doing it somewhere visible just to be safe since I don't know if they all use the same adhesive.

Also, a couple of minutes is more than enough time to affect a finish. Trust me.
 

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