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Big attenuators

Thanks. Yeah I can use maximum 4 ohm impedence so that would be the order. Ideally I'd want a 600W unit; the issue is cost. It also depends how much of the output I intend to attenuate (i.e. curving off a bit of volume at gigs compared to running it flat out in my bedroom).

I'm leaning toward the smaller speaker option at this stage. Much more elegant solution I reckon.
 
This has turned kinda interesting... how to run an SVT at lower volumes.

Weird idea... two high watt, low efficiency 8 ohm isobaric cabs. Wired out of phase.

Prolly sound like crap, but it'd eat a lot of power with low spl, I bet.

:ninja:
 
Dude, good luck with your SVT using an attenuator. Will is right...if they made an attenuator that would work for it, we'd all have them. You will burn up your SVT with ANY attenuator on the market. You can either trust us on that or you can burn your SVT up. But don't say we didn't warn you.

Ummm...

An undersized attenuator won't burn up your amp, it will burn up the attenuator.

As for them being unavailable:

Invalid Link Removed

8ohm, 750 watt resistor - $33
 
Ummm...

An undersized attenuator won't burn up your amp, it will burn up the attenuator.

As for them being unavailable:

Invalid Link Removed

8ohm, 750 watt resistor - $33

Except you have to buy 10. And it's 15 inches long. And you'd have to mount it inside a forced-air cooled, metal enclosure so it doesn't start things on fire. Somewhat less than ideal, but yes, it exists.
 
OK, fair enough. But it's still money.

...but a lot less than a new amp or cab.

And let's see if it actually works to use that resistor. If it did, someone would be making it commercially already.

Of course it works to use that resistor - or any other resistor of appropriate resistance and power handling... I've only done it hundreds of times.


...as to whether someone would be making it commercially - that all depends on whether the market is large enough to make it a money making proposition, not on whether it functions.
 
Except you have to buy 10.

I'd have to buy 10x 750 watt, 8 ohm resistors?

To make an 8 ohm load that can handle ~600W? How do you figure?



And it's 15 inches long. And you'd have to mount it inside a forced-air cooled, metal enclosure so it doesn't start things on fire.

Nah... it can handle continuously dissipating about 400W in free air without exceeding design rated temperatures.

If you put two 4ohm in series mounted with a computer case fan you could dump full SVT power to it without it even heating appreciably.


My dummy load doesn't even use the 750W parts.

I use 8x 1ohm(300W) parts in series with a small blower - it'll take 1000W continuous and barely get above room temp.
 
I feel like I could share my own limited experience in this thread, as I went through a similar search as the OP a few years ago, trying to find an attenuator to play on the sweet spot of a SVT VR at any volume I needed, lower than the full blast of a cranked SVT.
Following that idea, I learned a little about how attenuators work, what they can do and what they can't, depending on the design, for guitar and for bass tube amps.
I now do own a Weber 200W Mass attenuator too, that I do occasionnaly use with my V4B, but knowing what to expect from it, and what not. It seems there was a reason late Ted Weber developped an attenuator incorporating a speaker motor to "emulate the reactance effect that a speaker would provide". A simple dummy load does not mimic the way a speaker motor constantly interacts with the amp, and the effect it has on the tone. Maybe I couldn't tell the difference on a blind test, between an amp attenuated by a simple dummy load and by a Mass-like attenuator. I haven't done the test. But I feel like I understand and trust the physics of it, enough to believe that it would make a difference to me.
As for the SVT, my conclusion was that it is designed to be loud. It can be a little quiet and clean, but to my ears it really get its tone when loud, and of course when reaching the sweet spot. I could play on the efficiency and number of speakers to be a little quieter or a little louder, but basically I felt like it was just not logical to try to get it to be a quiet amp by attenuating it to a point where it was loosing its tone and guts. I thought it would be like using the wrong tool to get the job done.
So I found myself a V4B, and a B25B, and I'm very satisfied with that choice. I use the Weber Mass when I want to record the V4B pushed to overdrive, in a small room, or loose a few dB while staying on the sweet spot.
I don't know if this is useful, but from my experience, I thought that the OP got the best possible advice in the first ten answers he got.
 
Eminence did, it's called D-FEND
:)

Here's a dummy load that looks like a real speaker. There is even info on how to get a DI off it. Just scale up the wattage values.
http://www.duncanamps.com/technical/dummyload.html

Yes, but you can build an active circuit that doesn't require you to scale up the wattage values of the passive components. If the active circuit is Class-D, then it's super efficient. And I'm sure that with some cleverness, you can replace the inductors with capacitive circuits.
 
I think this works out to an approx. 8 Ohm dummy load. The resistor power rating only needs to be 1/80 of the amplifier output power. Of course the op amp is doing the heavy lifting, but it could be a switchmode circuit.
 

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