I have a dual p with active pre, and the blend knob is defunct...I really have no desire to switch between the 2 pickups and want to just hard wire them both to on position... How do I go about doing that?
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Blend knob bypass...
- Thread starter dukey donkey
- Start date
Remove the two white wires going from the pickups to the blend. Remove the white at the vol coming from the blend. attach the two pickup wires you just removed to the spot on the vol pot you just vacated OR for ease of future repair/owners; attach the two pickup wires to the blend pot where the white to the vol is. Wait; that was for a passive bass, sorry can't help.
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On a passive there is. First you would remove any black wires on the blend pot back. Install the new vol pot and reattach the black wires. Attach the white pickup wire to be controlled to the outside tab (left one when viewed for the back with the tabs pointing towards you) of the pot. The other outside tab gets grounded to the back of the pot. Run a white wire from the center tab of you new vol to the center tab of the existing vol. Now remove the white wire coming from the blend pot at the original vol and attach the other pickup white to that tab. Done, reassemble the bass.
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sweet... then I could render the blend unnecessary and still get the same effect using the 2 volumes to varying degrees?
is there a preference as far as 250k vs 500k? I'm not sure what the difference is when used as a volume pot...
What ever the original vol is, match it. You do want log taper (audio taper), NOT linear taper.
If you want some extra brightness out of it, use 500K Ohm pots.
If you need to replace them both, I'd recommend linear taper for the volume:
This is assuming that the volume is controlled prior to going into the preamp.
If you need to replace them both, I'd recommend linear taper for the volume:
This is assuming that the volume is controlled prior to going into the preamp.
Turnaround
Commercial User
The trouble with linear taper is that your ears hear it differently than the electrical graph shows. The graph that Killed_by_Death supplied shows the electrical response. To make it SOUND like an even ramp up and down, an audio taper is required. That's the whole point of audio taper.
I think that in a passive bass, using linear or audio taper can be a crapshoot.
You might like one in one setup, and the other elsewhere.
Generally, if I’m staying with the original resistance, I’d stay with the same taper also.
But going from 250K to 500K or the other way can make this all very iffy.
The deal is, that in a passive bass, everything affects how everything else works.
Pots affect how pickups work, pickups affect how pots work.
In an active, it’s much easier to keep things isolated.
Be prepared to not like your first choice, half of the time.
You might like one in one setup, and the other elsewhere.
Generally, if I’m staying with the original resistance, I’d stay with the same taper also.
But going from 250K to 500K or the other way can make this all very iffy.
The deal is, that in a passive bass, everything affects how everything else works.
Pots affect how pickups work, pickups affect how pots work.
In an active, it’s much easier to keep things isolated.
Be prepared to not like your first choice, half of the time.
Get a look at what you have in there first. Some preamps control the blend, making it virtually impossible to change the layout:
This is just an example I grabbed where the pots are all going straight to the preamp.
This is just an example I grabbed where the pots are all going straight to the preamp.
