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Boner Bass Club

I purchased mine new in February or March of 1995. After playing my cousins blue burst with maple neck, I knew that I wanted one but in sunburst with rosewood neck. I removed the neck for the first time yesterday and both neck and body are stamped February 14, 1994.
Was this one of the last ones made? It didn't include that boost button located between the knobs.
I remember the new Deluxe models had just come out and were in the store with this one but the guy working there insisted that this was an early 95.
I played it regularly for about 4 years before I got my 1971 Precision.
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I've looked and looked and can't find a Boner Bass Club here on the forum. For those of you who don't know what that is, it's a late 80s to early 90s run of American Fender basses (just Jazz basses?) that had 2 extra frets and longer horns - thus the "boner" reference. They were also known as Long Horn basses. Well, I have a boner ... bass and was looking to start a club here. Post pictures of your late 80s early 90s boner basses here.

Below is my 1993 American Fender Standard Jazz bass. I've been the only owner and have played it for all 17 years. The only thing on it that is NOT original is the nut which was replaced around 1996 when the original one cracked at the g-string. It was replaced with a genuine Fender part.
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The Club So Far:
Fletz - founder
GBassNorth #2
I'm interested in this group. I too have a Fender
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Precision Boner Longhorn P-Bass Plus TBX Lace Sensor 11056.Here's a pic though not very good.
 
Anyone here with a longhorn Jazz willing to give me the measurements of the pickup placement from the 12th fret for both the neck and bridge pickups? I can find the info for pickup placement for several jazz basses, but not these specifically. Any help would be appreciated.
 
Anyone here with a longhorn Jazz willing to give me the measurements of the pickup placement from the 12th fret for both the neck and bridge pickups? I can find the info for pickup placement for several jazz basses, but not these specifically. Any help would be appreciated.

10-5/16" to the N pu ...14-5/16" to the B pu from the bottom of the 12th fret
 
Hi guys! I've read every post on this thread with great interest.

I was delighted to win an eBay auction for a 'boner', which ended on Christmas Day. With 100+ watchers, I thought there would be stiff competition, but I got there. I think this is a 1989 example. Apart from a few small dings in the neck, it's in very nice condition. Most importantly, it sounds great, and I've got it set up to play really well too. Yes, the outer strings are a little close to the edge of the board, but it hasn't caused me any problems so far, so I'm not going to rush into changing anything.

The first good bass I owned was a Fender Jazz Bass I bought new in 1973, and this bass is in a completely different league. I loved my first JB, but this one is really special.

Thank you for all the information you've given me so far.

EDIT: "Boner", "stiff". Oh God, let's just get past the obvious… ;)

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Hi guys! I've read every post on this thread with great interest.

I was delighted to win an eBay auction for a 'boner', which ended on Christmas Day. With 100+ watchers, I thought there would be stiff competition, but I got there. I think this is a 1989 example. Apart from a few small dings in the neck, it's in very nice condition. Most importantly, it sounds great, and I've got it set up to play really well too. Yes, the outer strings are a little close to the edge of the board, but it hasn't caused me any problems so far, so I'm not going to rush into changing anything.

The first good bass I owned was a Fender Jazz Bass I bought new in 1973, and this bass is in a completely different league. I loved my first JB, but this one is really special.

Thank you for all the information you've given me so far.

EDIT: "Boner", "stiff". Oh God, let's just get past the obvious… ;)

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Welcome to tb and to these fine Fender USA vintage basses. I really like the pewter metallic finish and when I was first made aware of them (post #61), that's the one I wanted. Alas it is not as common as the Lipstick Red which I what I got.

Enjoy your new bass! :bassist:
 
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Having played my new bass for a few weeks, I've come to the conclusion I would prefer the outer strings not so close to the edge of the board. Apart from the G string occasionally sliding off the ends of the frets, it doesn't align very well with the pole pieces of the pickups.

I know the subject of replacement three-screw bridges has come up before, but I'm looking for suggestions. I fitted a Wilkinson unit with brass saddles to a Tokai Jazz Sound a week or so ago, and I'm really happy with it. Unfortunately, I think it's only available with five screw holes, and I'd prefer not to redrill the Fender bass, if possible.
 
Having played my new bass for a few weeks, I've come to the conclusion I would prefer the outer strings not so close to the edge of the board. Apart from the G string occasionally sliding off the ends of the frets, it doesn't align very well with the pole pieces of the pickups.

I know the subject of replacement three-screw bridges has come up before, but I'm looking for suggestions. I fitted a Wilkinson unit with brass saddles to a Tokai Jazz Sound a week or so ago, and I'm really happy with it. Unfortunately, I think it's only available with five screw holes, and I'd prefer not to redrill the Fender bass, if possible.

This was my first concern once I started playing mine. (strings too close to the edges)

Honestly, adding new screw-holes to install a bridge that allows spacing adjustment on your bass shouldn't deter you. It's not a valuable vintage bass and it's not likely to become one. Once done - you will have a bass you love playing and there will be no trace of the change. The Wilkinson would be a good choice, or a Fender threaded-saddle bent-plate or any Fender bridge with threads on the saddles would work. You'd just have to make sure whatever bridge you choose will cover where the original bridge was. My personal recommendation would be the Hipshot KA bridge, with adjustable brass saddle insets.

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One other route would be replacing the saddles with threaded saddles. That way you can keep the same bridge. They come with their own bolts as saddles may have different threading.

Vintage Threaded Bridge Saddles for 50s 60s Fender P/Jazz Bass® BP-2125-001 | eBay
 
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This was my first concern once I started playing mine. (strings too close to the edges)

Honestly, adding new screw-holes to install a bridge that allows spacing adjustment on your bass shouldn't deter you. It's not a valuable vintage bass and it's not likely to become one. Once done - you will have a bass you love playing and there will be no trace of the change. The Wilkinson would be a good choice, or a Fender threaded-saddle bent-plate or any Fender bridge with threads on the saddles would work. You'd just have to make sure whatever bridge you choose will cover where the original bridge was. My personal recommendation would be the Hipshot KA bridge, with adjustable brass saddle insets.

One other route would be replacing the saddles with threaded saddles. That way you can keep the same bridge. They come with their own bolts as saddles may have different threading.

Vintage Threaded Bridge Saddles for 50s 60s Fender P/Jazz Bass® BP-2125-001 | eBay

Thank you for the reply. I have the threaded saddles already, but they don't fix the problem with the G string, because the string goes at such an angle, it simply pulls the saddle over the plate, putting the string back where it was. Although I greatly prefer reversible mods, I might just bite the bullet and redrill, as you suggest. It's something I've done many times before.
 
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Thank you for the reply. I have the threaded saddles already, but they don't fix the problem with the G string, because the string goes at such an angle, it simply pulls the saddle over the plate, putting the string back where it was. Although I greatly prefer reversible mods, I might just bite the bullet and redrill, as you suggest. It's something I've done many times before.

It's the first thing I did after discovering that issue. I used the Schaller 3D bridge with roller-saddles - the only drawback to using that bridge on that bass is it's not the same footprint as the one on there. Great bridge otherwise.

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Mine has gone thru a lot of changes -
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