Bottom of cab issues

Screw a couple of 1/2" or 3/4" ply boards to the bottom of the cab and re-attach the castors to them...?

 

Tricky to answer that but replacing the whole base of the cab is not going to be a simple task.

I would try the boards first - it may be all you need and if not they can easily be removed.

Also, remember to always lift the castors over small steps etc. to prevent them getting knocked sideways and loosened.

 

use bigger screws?

 

It should not mess with the sound unless you attach it loosely or with room for movement between the new and old board.

 

Screwing the planks on the bottom to re-mount the casters to is a great idea, have done it before and it works pretty well. As for the sound, not unless you some how drill into the speaker or wires or something like that.

 

Take your casters out, go to Home Depot and buy a movers dolly. When you play take the cab off the dolly.

I've found that you get a better low end feel and sound when your cab has more contact with the ground.

 

which, in all likelihood isn't going to happen, you'd need to drill through both sheets of plywood as well as the internal damping in order to do that

 

I’m a true believer in good road cases - but, maybe use some PL premium glue and screws to add a black painted 1/2” plywood board to the bottom of the cabinet and then reattach the castors?

 

^ This is what I would do....

 

I'm surprised these things don't routinely come with recessed casters. Tilt and move, with ease.

 

I would pull the bottom drivers, take all casters off, get nuts and bolts long enough to pass through, use the oversized washers that available at any hardware store along with threadlock glue and permanently bolt them on. Washers and threadlock on the nuts INSIDE the cab.

 

Hmm, rat fur. No, it will probably be better, easier, and cleaner looking if you leave the carpet.

 

The dolly is a practical option.

Myself, I use 250-lb capacity casters from ACE Hardware and mount them with #10 by 1" screws, like this....



I have found that with any kind of decent wood, four #10 x 1" screws will not come loose. Pilot-drill the screw holes if you go this route, and buy casters rated much heavier than the actual cab - the impact on the casters when moving the cab is considerably in excess of the actual weight of the cab.

If having casters on the bottom bothers you (it does not bother me) then just tip the cab on its side and play it.

 

This, or...
(What I would do)You could pick up some Adhesive/ sealant, 1/4" T-nuts, bolts and washers at Your local home improvement center and repair as follows:
* Remove the two speakers from the bottom side of the cab
* turn cab upside down, or on it's side to perform work
* Measure the overall thickness of the wood
* Buy Bolts and T-nuts, long enough for propper clearance of wood and casters.
* Drill existing mounting holes to fit the T-nuts
* Apply, a bead of sealant to T-nuts prior to installing
* Re-install casters using the t-nuts and bolts, tighten as needed, and/or use lock tight conservatively if it suits You
* Re-install speakers, and other hardware
* Enjoy

 

It works really well for my ashdown 4x10 and huge head rack. It also prevents the cab from rolling when loaded into our trailer. Good luck with the fix!