Bottom of cab issues

[tjh]

is this particle board (MDF, etc) or plywood? .. if if is particle board, I would take T-Birds suggestion and BOLT the 3/4" plywood to the bottom of the cab (through the casters and one or two to the center wouldnt hurt either, making sure to secure the inside nuts in a manner as suggested or equivalent ( I like nylon locking nuts) ... I would probably shoot some adhesive into the voids created by the previous caster pull outs ... you may be able to just re-use the existing casters if they are decent ...

... just what you wanted, more weight added to your 410

Edit to add: I like the T-nuts idea as well, that way you can re-tighten externally once the cab is back together ... the only caveat there may be if the cab is very dense MDF type board, the points on the T-nuts may not 'seat' as well as if it is plywood ... BTW, what ever you use, make sure you use bolts rather than screws, so you can get a socket/wrench on the head and not risking stripping a screw head ...

 

[will33]

You can screw or glue some squares of plywood to the inside of the cab where the casters go, then use longer screws to mount your casters. Long enough to go through the wheel, through the old bottom and into the new piece on the inside. The other option would be to peel the covering back, saw the whole bottom off and put on a new one.

 

[96tbird]

This, or...
(What I would do)You could pick up some Adhesive/ sealant, 1/4" T-nuts, bolts and washers at Your local home improvement center and repair as follows:
* Remove the two speakers from the bottom side of the cab
* turn cab upside down, or on it's side to perform work
* Measure the overall thickness of the wood
* Buy Bolts and T-nuts, long enough for propper clearance of wood and casters.
* Drill existing mounting holes to fit the T-nuts
* Apply, a bead of sealant to T-nuts prior to installing
* Re-install casters using the t-nuts and bolts, tighten as needed, and/or use lock tight conservatively if it suits You
* Re-install speakers, and other hardware
* Enjoy

T nuts are good too! Best even, I just thought the fella is a self declared noob and may not have mechanical know how and understand what tnuts are.

 

[JLS]

I would pull the bottom drivers, take all casters off, get nuts and bolts long enough to pass through, use the oversized washers that available at any hardware store along with threadlock glue and permanently bolt them on. Washers and threadlock on the nuts INSIDE the cab.

I've done this, but with carriage bolts, with the head on the inside of the cabinet. The amount of abuse casters get, I don't trust any fastener that doesn't go all the way through the cabinet bottom.

 

[JMac- Wiskerface Designs]

T nuts are good too! Best even, I just thought the fella is a self declared noob and may not have mechanical know how and understand what tnuts are.

Very true Sir! Good call, T-nuts could sound like some kind of new candy bar or something to the OP, if He's unfamiliar with such. ... Forgive Me, as My "Home Depot savy" tends to get the best of Me at times, LOL...

OP: To be a bit more helpfull, this is a T-nut.

 

[seamonkey]

What does GK support say?

As mentioned above - is the CAB MDF?
T-nuts are crap in MDF, it will just break apart more.
A dolly is best.

Absolute best solution is no MDF for bass cabinets.

 

[pharmakon]

Thanks again to you all. I have some good options here and I'll explore them! Best to start with the GK site and see what this beast is made of

 

[pharmakon]

Very true Sir! Good call, T-nuts could sound like some kind of new candy bar or something to the OP, if He's unfamiliar with such. ... Forgive Me, as My "Home Depot savy" tends to get the best of Me at times, LOL...

OP: To be a bit more helpfull, this is a T-nut.

Thanks for the visual. It DOES help!