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Breaking low b while installing!

I too have a problem on my 4 string Jaguar with the full wrap of the E string on some brands reaching and partially winding around the tuning post. DRs are by far the worst, though. I get almost a full wind of the full part of the string. Dragon's skins wouldn't even wrap. The coating prevented it and the string literally kinked into a square around the tuning post, from the stress.:eek: Though, Nothing has ever broken on me from this.


Rotos of various type and GHS progressives have been the best fit of recent memory.

Currently its strung with Dean Markley Helix Stainless Steels. They have about a quarter wrap of the full part of the string going around the E tuner post.
 
I think I just may try it. :cool: I am tired of the full wrap on recent DR's winding onto the tuner post.

Yeah, this is a recipe for disaster as others have posted. Sidenote: I also strongly discourage using tapered or exposed core strings in a thru-body application as they're more vulnerable to breakage given the severity of the break angle. I got this straight from Lakland.

Riis
 
It baffles me why instrument designers put the B string tuner so close to the nut, which causes the outer wraps to go around the post. Poor instrument design if you ask me.

That, or Kevin Brubaker is an absolute genius.

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Yep. I've switched from using DR on my 5er's because of it. I was running Hi Beams for those interested. The outer wrap would start to go around the tuning peg, then...SNAP! If the outer wrap was just 1/2" shorter it would be perfect.

Yes, they are helpful and make things right when you break one. However, when I change my strings I need them to work, not be sitting around for a few days while a replacement string is sent to me. It's a shame too, because I really like DR strings.
 
If the outer wrap was just 1/2" shorter it would be perfect.

Basses vary so much, even different models of the same brand, that you have to pity the string makers as they try to pick a length that will work for everyone. It just isn't possible. If you only need half an inch then I don't think there is anything wrong with putting a spacer on the ball end of the low string before you thread it through the bridge as others have suggested. You should be able to find something that will work at the local hardware store: a short piece of metal tubing, a threaded spacer, or even a stack of hex nuts....

Ken
 
Basses vary so much, even different models of the same brand, that you have to pity the string makers as they try to pick a length that will work for everyone. It just isn't possible. If you only need half an inch then I don't think there is anything wrong with putting a spacer on the ball end of the low string before you thread it through the bridge as others have suggested. You should be able to find something that will work at the local hardware store: a short piece of metal tubing, a threaded spacer, or even a stack of hex nuts....

Ken

Yeah, I can understand that. However, all of the other strings I've used fit on this bass just fine and don't break.

I'm not adding spacers or any other mickey mouse idea just so I can use a particular brand of strings. I'm relatively loyal, but not that loyal.
 
Thanks Bass Cats, all of your post were appreciated and very helpful. To shed light on where they are breaking, it's breaking where the fattest part of the string starts winding around the slim section of string at the post. And the strings are going through the bridge. Was the most frustrating thing these past two days.

All the info/tips herein are great, and yes DR has had issues, but this I don't get. Why are you winding string around string? Don't your posts have holes (longitudinally) down the center to push the thinnest part of the string into before winding from top of post downward? Even when the fat part hits the post, this should be at the bottom of the post itself, and not winding around any part of the string.
 
All the info/tips herein are great, and yes DR has had issues, but this I don't get. Why are you winding string around string? Don't your posts have holes (longitudinally) down the center to push the thinnest part of the string into before winding from top of post downward? Even when the fat part hits the post, this should be at the bottom of the post itself, and not winding around any part of the string.

Been stringing basses for 34 years, kinda know how to do it! ;) The issue is the fat part of the string is making a slight turn on the post (yes, at the bottom!) and is snapping. The strings are too long for some basses. I have never had it happen (even with DR's) in 30+ years, and it has happened twice in a row now.
As soon as my replacement gets here, I'm going to try the spacer and see if that works.

J!
 
Been stringing basses for 34 years, kinda know how to do it! ;) The issue is the fat part of the string is making a slight turn on the post (yes, at the bottom!) and is snapping. The strings are too long for some basses. I have never had it happen (even with DR's) in 30+ years, and it has happened twice in a row now.
As soon as my replacement gets here, I'm going to try the spacer and see if that works.

J!

Cool, but I'm taking you at your own initial words, ie string winding on string - typo I guess? :D

Have the same issue on all 5 str sets I've tried too, B too long, but none have broken (yet). Guess I've been lucky not to have hit the bad batches. Hope your next ones are better!
 
I guess I'll have a talk with Roger Sadowsky and let him know that he better get with the program!

Perhaps you should, none of my crappy Fenders break B strings! He did recently participate in a discussion about noise pickup and tapewounds where he basically said no one should use tapewounds. I don't know the man from Adam but I get the impression that if you buy his basses you use the strings he says you can use???

Ken
 
Perhaps you should, none of my crappy Fenders break B strings! He did recently participate in a discussion about noise pickup and tapewounds where he basically said no one should use tapewounds. I don't know the man from Adam but I get the impression that if you buy his basses you use the strings he says you can use???

Ken

None of my other basses break strings at all (I own a few Fenders too), this is the only one. I have used quite a few other strings on it though, and the DR's are the only ones that have broken.

The low B tuner is very close to the nut. If it were further away or I could string through the body it would be fine. Or if the outer wrap on DR's didn't go up quite as high it would be fine.

I'm basically sticking with any strings that have silk wrap or are really thin on the tuner side for it. Zero issues.