• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join free Log in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Brian Moore i4 cheap dual action issues

#21
Are you absolutely positive you don't have the kind with the sleeve? Can you get a picture of the inside of the nut, its not all that easy to tell if you cant see the rod
 
#23
image.jpg
 
#24
So yea pretty sure no sleeve. So with dual action there is brass boxes at each end that the rod threads into? And if these boxes and threads were not properly lubed with never seize during assembly they could seize easily? The nut won't turn either way so I'm assuming it's seized. Maybe at both ends? Gonna hang the bass with headstock facing down and try PB blaster for a couple days. In doing this I'm hoping the PB will lube both sides of the rod or both brass housings. What say u guys?
 
#25
I think I'm still gonna sacrifice the last three frets and try and expose the threads on the rod to see what I'm working with. All about functionality at this point. And could some one direct me to a good video of someone explaining exactly how a dual action truss rod works? I searched and only found how to adjust. Thanks!!
 
#26
And my dad is tellin me to stop messing around and let's just remove the fretboard and replace the rod. Score it under the binding all the way around and heat it up to soften the glue and remove. I mean I would watch lots of tutorials with my dad and go from there. Dad is a master wood worker carpenter electrician jeweler watch/clock builder and repairman. He just got that gene. Me not so much... I mean I would have complete confidence in my dad but still a lil scary. Not much to lose tho and it be a good experience. Then if I want refinish:( idk opinions?
 
#27
MrCool84 said:
So yea pretty sure no sleeve. So with dual action there is brass boxes at each end that the rod threads into? And if these boxes and threads were not properly lubed with never seize during assembly they could seize easily? The nut won't turn either way so I'm assuming it's seized. Maybe at both ends? Gonna hang the bass with headstock facing down and try PB blaster for a couple days. In doing this I'm hoping the PB will lube both sides of the rod or both brass housings. What say u guys?
Click to expand...

Actually I am 99% positive you do have the kind with the sleeve, It has a rolled lip that encases the nut inside of it so the nut is stationary. Look at the shoulder in front of the hex nut, if it were a welded nut style rod the hex would be cut to the edge of the nut.
 
#28
Maybe your right Hopkins I just thought I had destroyed the hex shape in trying all sorts of stuff to move the nut....if it is the kind with the sleeve I'm more screwed then with no sleeve. Having the sleeve would make it harder to work with the actually nut. Idk I'm on the fence on wether to cut more fretboard and try and expose thread and see more what I'm working with or just go big with FB removal and rod replacement
 
Last edited:
#29
MrCool84 said:
So I love this bass a lot. But maybe not $3 to $500 a lot. First the truss rod nut got stripped. My fault or a techs fault when I paid for a setup...regardless....before I cut away some of the finger board I tried everything. Hours of ideas with my engineering savvy father. It wouldn't budge.... So (as u can see in the pic) I removed the last fret and gained full access to the but. I drilled a hole thru the side of the nut to get a lever and leverage on it. It needs tightening. It has forward bow. Still with some balls on it .... Nothing ..... It didn't budge... I worked for this company as the shipping manager in Poughkeepsie ny and befriended the tech... So I contacted him and he says they used cheap Chinese dual action rods and it was tightened all the way. He had seen it before..... So just wanna pick some brains for tips tricks ideas before I sell it for cheap or have a pro remove fret board to replace the truss rod... I was thinking of loosening the nut significantly and then to clamp to a straight edge to remove forward bow and maybe get enough threads to tighten and be good ( prolly not a permanent fix) idk what u guys think?
Click to expand...
Any bass will have issues if you toe
MrCool84 said:
So I love this bass a lot. But maybe not $3 to $500 a lot. First the truss rod nut got stripped. My fault or a techs fault when I paid for a setup...regardless....before I cut away some of the finger board I tried everything. Hours of ideas with my engineering savvy father. It wouldn't budge.... So (as u can see in the pic) I removed the last fret and gained full access to the but. I drilled a hole thru the side of the nut to get a lever and leverage on it. It needs tightening. It has forward bow. Still with some balls on it .... Nothing ..... It didn't budge... I worked for this company as the shipping manager in Poughkeepsie ny and befriended the tech... So I contacted him and he says they used cheap Chinese dual action rods and it was tightened all the way. He had seen it before..... So just wanna pick some brains for tips tricks ideas before I sell it for cheap or have a pro remove fret board to replace the truss rod... I was thinking of loosening the nut significantly and then to clamp to a straight edge to remove forward bow and maybe get enough threads to tighten and be good ( prolly not a permanent fix) I think that bass is ruined 🤣This exemplifies why it’s important learn how do ya own set up and research it . Tighten truss rod too much and never thought to lower bridge
Click to expand...
 

Latest posts

Top Bottom
Back