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Bridge And Other Advice

stelles75

stelles75

Sep 26, 2014
514
688
50
#1
I just bought this black Peavey Fury. I want to replace the hardware on it to be all black. I found this bridge on Amazon that looks pretty sturdy and similar to the Ken Smith bridge I have on my red Fury (same exact model but 1-3 years older).

My question on this is probably pretty basic/dumb, but here goes... The screw configuration on that black bridge is 5 in a row just like the Ken Smith bridge, but the stock bridge that comes on the Fury is a 3 x 2 configuration. I feel like it's a somewhat safe assumption that three of the screw holes on that bridge will line up with the bottom 3 on the Fury body. If that assumption proves correct, is it a simple matter of screwing it down with 3 screws and then power driving the other two screws through the body? Can I expect any damage to occur outside of the bridge on the body?

I also would like to get some replacement tuning machines that are black, but I'm having a tough time locating 1. an inexpensive set 2. knowing the proper dimensions of the peg hole thing. I did find these: [Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

Any thoughts on that company or quality?

Any advice would be appreciated. FYI, I bought a nice Dimarzio DP122 setup from another boarder, so I want this particular Peavey to be pretty ballsy, from both an appearance and playability perspective.
 
Last edited:
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#4
If your fury uses a Fender screw pattern for the bridge it will work fin with the factory holes. If not, the center hole will probably work, and you can drill new holes using the bridge as a guide.
 
#5
I think I'm more worried about string tension and not having the bridge rip out of the body due to it not being seated well enough. If I have to fill and re-drill, I probably won't bother replacing the bridge at all.
 
#6
The screws across the back (3 or 5) are what keeps the bridge from pulling up. The ones in the front resist lateral stress, but 2 more in the back do just as well. The 2 in the front also make sure the front of the bridge is down solid there, besides, altho string tension should do the same with only screws in the back if the body is flat under the bridge.
 
#7
stelles75 said:
I think I'm more worried about string tension and not having the bridge rip out of the body due to it not being seated well enough. If I have to fill and re-drill, I probably won't bother replacing the bridge at all.
Click to expand...
Go ahead and fill and re-fill its easy
IMG_0044.JPG IMG_0047.JPG
 
#8
stelles75 said:
I just bought this black Peavey Fury. I want to replace the hardware on it to be all black. I found this bridge on Amazon that looks pretty sturdy and similar to the Ken Smith bridge I have on my red Fury (same exact model but 1-3 years older).

My question on this is probably pretty basic/dumb, but here goes... The screw configuration on that black bridge is 5 in a row just like the Ken Smith bridge, but the stock bridge that comes on the Fury is a 3 x 2 configuration. I feel like it's a somewhat safe assumption that three of the screw holes on that bridge will line up with the bottom 3 on the Fury body. If that assumption proves correct, is it a simple matter of screwing it down with 3 screws and then power driving the other two screws through the body? Can I expect any damage to occur outside of the bridge on the body?

I also would like to get some replacement tuning machines that are black, but I'm having a tough time locating 1. an inexpensive set 2. knowing the proper dimensions of the peg hole thing. I did find these: [Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

Any thoughts on that company or quality?

Any advice would be appreciated. FYI, I bought a nice Dimarzio DP122 setup from another boarder, so I want this particular Peavey to be pretty ballsy, from both an appearance and playability perspective.
Click to expand...
I have a set of black Schallers that I took off a used bass I bought. there are only three but I also have a hipshot drop tuner to go with them if you want them instead they're yours. they are leftys.
 
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#10
By the way
Nice buy
I had to hold my self back on the one that just sold on TB
The wife would have went nuts
Though I just brought her to a music shop yesterday to fit her for a two clarinet mouthpieces
I shoud be good for another one soon
 
#12
Ken J said:
By the way
Nice buy
I had to hold my self back on the one that just sold on TB
The wife would have went nuts
Though I just brought her to a music shop yesterday to fit her for a two clarinet mouthpieces
I shoud be good for another one soon
Click to expand...

Thanks!

What brand would you suggest I look at? It doesn't have to be high quality, just a good enough bridge.
 
#14
sissy kathy said:
Yes it matters. Your post made me think you bought a l/h base. the drop tuner isn't reversible and I'm not going to split it up from the rest of the tuners.
Click to expand...

Ah... fair enough. I appreciate the thought.

FYI, the bass arrived last night (free two day shipping?! yes please.) and other than some dings, which I think add character, it's in SUPER good shape. It doesn't even need a setup. The action is perfect. For now, I'm probably going to slap new electronics in and a new pickguard and roll with it until I come across a screamin' deal on some black hardware.
 
#18
Filling is not such a big deal. Jut make sure to trim back flush to the rest of the body.

If you have to put in new screws for which there are no holes, just drill a pilot hole or you risk splitting the wood. After you drill the pilot, run the screw in, then back out, then take a countersink and trim the wood/finish that pushed up around the hole when you ran in the screw, then your bridge will sit nice and flat.

Oh and BTW, a little wax on the screw makes it much easier to run in.
 
#19
fhm555 said:
Filling is not such a big deal. Jut make sure to trim back flush to the rest of the body.

If you have to put in new screws for which there are no holes, just drill a pilot hole or you risk splitting the wood. After you drill the pilot, run the screw in, then back out, then take a countersink and trim the wood/finish that pushed up around the hole when you ran in the screw, then your bridge will sit nice and flat.

Oh and BTW, a little wax on the screw makes it much easier to run in.
Click to expand...
Or bar soap.
 

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