Bridge intonation setup - ETS MK 3D

[Catalin]

Hi guys,

I just received a very nice bass - Franz Sirius 5 strings.
Everything is nice, except one thing, i don't really know how to setup the intonation on the ETS bridge. I can't figure out how to move those saddles back and forth
Can you help me? I am stucked lol!
I tried to search on the internet but couldn't find anything.
Maybe you can forward me a link with an instruction manual or something
I attached 2 pictures of the bridge. I numbered the screws from 1 to 4. For now this is what i have figure out by myself:
1 and 2 are adjusting the height of the strings.
3 is adjusting the height and also the angle of the saddle
4 - i don't know what this screw is supposed to do. It looks like it should lock something, but i don't know what. I adjusted the height without loosening it.
The screw from the second picture probably locks the saddle in place. By loosening it i am sure i can adjust the string spacing.

Cheers!

 

[Zooberwerx]

#4 probably locks the saddle assembly within the channel. You'll want to loosen it when making intonation or string height adjustments. ABM uses the same approach. Why don't you be adventurous and pull one of the sled assemblies and inspect the underside?

Riis

 

[ixlramp]

If you remove a saddle and inspect all sides it should become obvious.

 

[Catalin]

Problem solved. When i changed the strings i felt adventurous enough to remove the saddle
The intonation can be set by loosening the string and just moving the saddle back and forth. I cant see where is the advantage of a system like this... This way it takes much longer to set the intonation

 

[Zooberwerx]

Problem solved. When i changed the strings i felt adventurous enough to remove the saddle
The intonation can be set by loosening the string and just moving the saddle back and forth. I cant see where is the advantage of a system like this... This way it takes much longer to set the intonation

Okay but what's the mystery grub screw function?!?

Riis

 

[Catalin]

Okay but what's the mystery grub screw function?!?

Riis

If you ask about number 4, that screw locks the saddle in place so it can't be moved back and forth.
So to intonate a string:
-loosen the string
-loosen the locking screw
-move the saddle with your finger, and hope you don't move it too much
-tune the string and check the intonation
-repeat the above steps as many time it is necessary

 

[NoiseNinja]

If you ask about number 4, that screw locks the saddle in place so it can't be moved back and forth.
So to intonate a string:
-loosen the string
-loosen the locking screw
-move the saddle with your finger, and hope you don't move it too much
-tune the string and check the intonation
-repeat the above steps as many time it is necessary

You forgot the final and most important step, that if not followed otherwise might get quite messy :

-visit bathroom to do a number 2 in between any given of the above steps in case you should feel the sudden urge and you just can't hold it back any longer

 

[Zooberwerx]

If you ask about number 4, that screw locks the saddle in place so it can't be moved back and forth.
So to intonate a string:
-loosen the string
-loosen the locking screw
-move the saddle with your finger, and hope you don't move it too much
-tune the string and check the intonation
-repeat the above steps as many time it is necessary

Once the saddle is "unlocked", I use a hardwood chopstick (...seriously) and whatever tool is handy and tap it into place. I don't slacken the string. It's a helluva lot easier than trying to get both thumbs on the saddle assembly. Sidenote: each individual saddle should be level / parallel with the baseplate.

Riis

 

[DolphinBro]

Once the saddle is "unlocked", I use a hardwood chopstick (...seriously) and whatever tool is handy and tap it into place. I don't slacken the string. It's a helluva lot easier than trying to get both thumbs on the saddle assembly. Sidenote: each individual saddle should be level / parallel with the baseplate.

Riis

If you ask about number 4, that screw locks the saddle in place so it can't be moved back and forth.
So to intonate a string:
-loosen the string
-loosen the locking screw
-move the saddle with your finger, and hope you don't move it too much
-tune the string and check the intonation
-repeat the above steps as many time it is necessary

I really don't see how that grub locks the saddle from sliding. The downward force of the string tension is KINDA holding it in place. I guess it's just a friction thing but not really a lock. Poor design for that function if you ask me. Now if the SIDES of each bridge was notched (dovetail effect) I could see how such a grub would lock it in place. Does the whole bridge piece just fall out when you change strings? I do like the compactness of the ETS but Wawick, albeit bulky, is about the best all adjustment and push/pull locking I've seen.

 

[Zooberwerx]

I really don't see how that grub locks the saddle from sliding. The downward force of the string tension is KINDA holding it in place. I guess it's just a friction thing but not really a lock. Poor design for that function if you ask me. Now if the SIDES of each bridge was notched (dovetail effect) I could see how such a grub would lock it in place. Does the whole bridge piece just fall out when you change strings? I do like the compactness of the ETS but Wawick, albeit bulky, is about the best all adjustment and push/pull locking I've seen.

Two years and nobody removed a saddle assembly for forensic evaluation? Trust me: it goes up ‘n down, back ‘n forth, and locks into place somehow. You think this is bad? It doesn’t hold a torch to some of the ill-conceived contrivances that have crossed my bench.

Riis

 

[DolphinBro]

It works...somehow. Ha. And yes. I believe you and maybe have seen one or two of those contrivances myself. I admit to having to look that word up. We're machining some string holders and bridges now. Been a very long train running but finally some designs that work, look good and minimal. 30 years in the making.

 

[Zooberwerx]

It works...somehow. Ha. And yes. I believe you and maybe have seen one or two of those contrivances myself. I admit to having to look that word up. We're machining some string holders and bridges now. Been a very long train running but finally some designs that work, look good and minimal. 30 years in the making.

Okay…you have my attention. Bonus points if you’ve truly created new approaches or refined existing platforms.

Riis

 

[DolphinBro]

I'd love to. But you know how prototyping goes. I'd just waste your time at this time. I did some individual string bridges, holders etc and now making the base for these to sit in. So two models.Scaled down all sizes as small as they could go to still retain function. It's some very tight tolerances. Coming out fine and should be about the size of a J pup without the ears. To work with that are button-like string holders which are a nightmare to get right but I got it right so...

As you know, not all things that look so good function so good. Today my hurtle is not the hardware itself but where to best position it. I've seen high end, beautiful basses with fixed bridges. How does one do that? What is that "magical" measurement? The answer is likely "There ain't one. It won't intonate." So I'm all ears if you have a perfectly intonated bass on all strings with a 34" scale and have the measurements from nut to bridge for each string. Time to make this forum worthwhile for more than opinions.

 

[MattLplaysBass]

Two years and nobody removed a saddle assembly for forensic evaluation? Trust me: it goes up ‘n down, back ‘n forth, and locks into place somehow. You think this is bad? It doesn’t hold a torch to some of the ill-conceived contrivances that have crossed my bench.

Riis

Not the exact same bridge, but similar (from ETS, on a de Gier Bebop 5).


The rear left hex screw (#4 above) moves a screw on the right side of the bridge to lock it in place. I don’t love the design, but it was easy enough to change strings and intonate them. I usually use the same strings (NYXL 45-130), so shouldn't have to make too many adjustments now.

 

[Zooberwerx]

Not the exact same bridge, but similar (from ETS, on a de Gier Bebop 5).
View attachment 5004060 View attachment 5004061 View attachment 5004062 View attachment 5004063 View attachment 5004064 View attachment 5004065 View attachment 5004066

The rear left hex screw moves a screw on the right side of the bridge to lock it in place. I don’t love the design, but it was easy enough to change strings and intonate them. I usually use the same strings (NYXL 45-130), so shouldn't have to make too many adjustments now.

Appreciate the follow-up! I guessed #4 two years ago. Some folks have a natural aversion to anything ABM-influenced.

Riis

 

[DolphinBro]

Not the exact same bridge, but similar (from ETS, on a de Gier Bebop 5).
View attachment 5004060 View attachment 5004061 View attachment 5004062 View attachment 5004063 View attachment 5004064 View attachment 5004065 View attachment 5004066


The rear left hex screw (#4 above) moves a screw on the right side of the bridge to lock it in place. I don’t love the design, but it was easy enough to change strings and intonate them. I usually use the same strings (NYXL 45-130), so shouldn't have to make too many adjustments now.

A handsome bass for sure. Not fancying dealing with ETS. No responses. They are a small shop dealing with some growing pains. I do sympathize with them. appreciated.

I agree. Not the most sturdy but should hold up OK. The only weakness seems to be that lock screw for sliding/locking action. I hope to post soon but the bridge on my latest fretless builds will be fixed. Kinda like a Warwick adjust-a-nut. No real movement except up/down. Kinda critical for placement (like nut) since I do have to route down into body. To get close intonation for each string, I left it un-routed and slid to get best angle compromise. After all, it is a fretless. Time will tell the tale to see how good it is to live with. The whole theme of these latest builds is cleanliness. Minimal hardware showing. With all the trouble, if they don't sound like I like, they're going on the burn pile.

 

[MattLplaysBass]

Appreciate the follow-up! I guessed #4 two years ago. Some folks have a natural aversion to anything ABM-influenced.

Riis

USA! USA!

I must admit, I remember HATING the ABM bridge that was on an old Modulus, but that was a several years ago (I think the Hipshot A style is the best bridge, fyi, and have them on most of my basses). But I also hated the older Spector bridges, before they had intonation screws, so at least I am consistent (although those didn’t even have separate channels for the saddles ).

As a driver of German cars for more than 10 years now, it’s always interesting to see how differently German engineers do things, I would argue not always for the better.

 

[DolphinBro]

Agreed A style is best/easiest straight bolt on for flat bodies. I'd also add the Warwick is smaller (of course requires separate string holder) but does require some routing. My basses (except latest model) were all curved body like Spector and Warwick so I needed to route some for any bridge.

And yes...German engineering. Ex 1955 356 Porsche owner. Great for it's time but sometimes you could watch the rear end pass you up in a turn. Ha.