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Bruce Johnson Truss Rod Droop

Hi,

Building my first guitar necks (vintage telecaster style) and i'd like them to have single action vintage truss rods. I've researched a bit on the truss rod channel channel and curve and found Bruce's posts here. My Luthier also referred me to Bruce's posts here when I asked him about truss rod curve

The one thing I'm not quite understanding is when we say Truss Rod "droop" of 0.180" and fenders and gibson typically have around 0.12" - 0.15" droop what exactly is that referring to? If I look on typical tele neck plans with the curve, it looks like the deepest part of the curve is genenerally 5/16 - .3125" below the truss rod ends which isn't in the ballpark of what bruce is saying. As I attempt to consider radius or the ratio of length of truss rod to the lowest point, none of the numbers I come up with seem to map onto this measurement range Bruce refers to called droop.

Could someone help me understand what specific measurements yield/determine truss rod droop?
 
If you go back to "General Forums" on this site, and click on the search bar at the top, you can enter "droop" and use the field "Posted by Member" to enter Bruce Johnson, and it will give you all 35 threads where Bruce has mentioned the word "droop". In there are all of his golden nuggets of information. It's worth going to 'general forums' because Bruce has posted about it in more than one forum, and searching in the Luthier's Corner only brings up those threads. :)

I'd link you the handful that have the information you're asking about, but honestly, it's worth reading all 35 posts to better understand all the context! :thumbsup: This link to the search might work too: https://www.talkbass.com/search/36730596/?q=droop&o=date&c[user][0]=185300
 
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Hi,

Building my first guitar necks (vintage telecaster style) and i'd like them to have single action vintage truss rods. I've researched a bit on the truss rod channel channel and curve and found Bruce's posts here. My Luthier also referred me to Bruce's posts here when I asked him about truss rod curve

The one thing I'm not quite understanding is when we say Truss Rod "droop" of 0.180" and fenders and gibson typically have around 0.12" - 0.15" droop what exactly is that referring to? If I look on typical tele neck plans with the curve, it looks like the deepest part of the curve is genenerally 5/16 - .3125" below the truss rod ends which isn't in the ballpark of what bruce is saying. As I attempt to consider radius or the ratio of length of truss rod to the lowest point, none of the numbers I come up with seem to map onto this measurement range Bruce refers to called droop.

Could someone help me understand what specific measurements yield/determine truss rod droop?

Sure, I'm here. I'll step in and answer that.

The Droop measurement I'm referring to is the distance that the centerline of the truss rod is deflected downward in the middle from the centerline at the two ends. That's how much the rod itself needs to be curved for it to function well mechanically. The Droop determines the mechanical ratio that the rod has; how many pounds of force it can push on the neck, in relation to the torque of tightening the nut.

From my many years of experience with truss rods, I've found that 0.180" is the best amount of Droop to design into a Single Rod style truss rod. That gives it a good amount of power to bend necks, without overloading the 10-32 threads on the rod. Going more than 0.180" makes the truss rod too sensitive. The neck moves too much with small angular turns of the nut, making it more difficult to dial in the relief. Surprisingly, that droop number of 0.180" seems to be the same for all lengths of necks and lengths of truss rods.

When the truss rod is installed in the neck, the rod itself is all below the fingerboard glue line. To figure out the depth of the deepest part of the curved slot in the middle, you have to add up the depth of the centerline at the adjusting end, plus the Droop, plus half the diameter of the rod. Because the bottom side of the rod goes below the centerline of the rod. Those three things added together give you the total depth of the slot in the middle.

At the adjusting end, you have to set or measure how deep the centerline of the rod is below glue line. On most Fenders, it's about 0.100". The Fender barrel nut is cut up into the underside of the fingerboard about 0.080". This applies to both the headstock and heel adjusting versions.

At the anchor end, in most Fenders, the top surface of the rod is almost up at the glue line. The centerline is also about 0.100" below the glue line.

So, on most Fenders, the math is: 0.100" (centerline below glue line) + 0.120" Droop + 0.093" (half the rod diameter) = 0.313" (the depth of the slot in the center). That's how most classic US Fenders are designed. In my opinion, that's not enough Droop, and that's a big reason why so many Fender necks have truss rod failures.

I've seen some newer model US Fenders and Mexican Fenders with 0.160" Droop. I also had to replace the truss rod on a Japanese Fender Lyte bass neck, and was surprised to find that it had 0.220" of Droop. I think that's the deepest Droop I've seen in a production bass neck. But most Fenders, particularly the older ones, around 0.120".

On new necks I build, I deliberately set the truss rods down deeper into the neck, plus I use 0.180" of droop. The deepest part of the slot ends up at 0.560" below the glue line. The center of the rod is almost 1/4" lower in the neck. I do that for a combination of reasons.

If you are making your guitar necks basically classic Tele style, I recommend that you increase the depth of the slot from 0.312" to about 0.372", about 3/8". That doesn't sound like much, but it makes a big difference in the function of the truss rod. Fender should do that on all their necks.

Edit: Okay, here's the 36th post where I've described Truss Rod Droop.
 
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In case my writeup above wasn't clear, here's a quick illustration I made using an image of a cross section of a Fender neck:

Fender Truss Rod Layout.jpg
 
If you go back to "General Forums" on this site, and click on the search bar at the top, you can enter "droop" and use the field "Posted by Member" to enter Bruce Johnson, and it will give you all 35 threads where Bruce has mentioned the word "droop". In there are all of his golden nuggets of information. It's worth going to 'general forums' because Bruce has posted about it in more than one forum, and searching in the Luthier's Corner only brings up those threads. :)

I'd link you the handful that have the information you're asking about, but honestly, it's worth reading all 35 posts to better understand all the context! :thumbsup: This link to the search might work too: https://www.talkbass.com/search/36730596/?q=droop&o=date&c[user][0]=185300


This is great! thank you. My hacking around google and the search only yielded about half of these posts, so thanks for the tips!
 
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In case my writeup above wasn't clear, here's a quick illustration I made using an image of a cross section of a Fender neck:

View attachment 5263397
@Bruce Johnson

Thank you so much! Your write up was very clear but having this diagram and explanation is wonderful.

I actually understood droop correctly from the other posts I read, but assumed I didn't when I was measuring against tele neck plans I had printed and the measurement was more than twice what you were saying fender normally does. Turns out, i just measured wrong. II was measuring top of the ends of the channel to the middle of the droop of the channel and coming up with 5/16" which was too far off your numbers so I assumed I misunderstood. After reading I remeasured and found my mistake.

Though now I'm glad I measured wrong because the additional explanation and the diagram is just fantastic. Thanks!

Lee
 
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Also, @Bruce Johnson , you mention in your builds you also set the Truss Rod deeper in addition to the 0.180" droop. What are the benefits of this? And would you recommend this as a modification to a traditional Tele style neck? If recommended, how much to deepen the truss rod in the neck beyond standard? I'm currently planning for soft V neck profile of around .92" ish at 1st fret and .98" ish at 12th fret and planning out my truss rod slot cutting jig for one piece necks.
 
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Also, @Bruce Johnson , you mention in your builds you also set the Truss Rod deeper in addition to the 0.180" droop. What are the benefits of this? And would you recommend this as a modification to a traditional Tele style neck? If recommended, how much to deepen the truss rod in the neck beyond standard? I'm currently planning for soft V neck profile of around .92" ish at 1st fret and .98" ish at 12th fret and planning out my truss rod slot cutting jig for one piece necks.

Setting the truss rod deeper in the neck changes the way the neck flexes in reaction to the vibration of the string. It changes the sound that's ringing on the string. How it does it is complicated.

If you are getting started building Fender-pattern Tele guitars, then you probably don't want to do things like this yet. Stick close to the Fender formula for sound until you've built up some experience and reputation.

If you build and sell Fender clones, most customers are going to expect them to sound like, well, Fenders. They'll judge how "good" your guitars sound by how close they are to the best Fender they've played. Unfortunately, that's the sad truth. People looking to buy a Fender Clone, really want a Fender. They go for a clone because they want it cheaper than a good Fender, or with some non-Fender color scheme or mechanical feature. They don't want it to sound different from a Fender. If they did, they would be looking at non-Fender guitars.

Only when you've built up a reputation for building really good Fender clones, can you start experimenting with making them sound better.
 
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