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Build II - Paradox MJ5 - New design!
- Thread starter roberthabraken
- Start date
LOL
Well, that would be 60 euros incl shipping for 24 bottles... still half of what you have to pay, but I doubt if it's okay with Customs :scowl:
Look at how the guys at Lefay route directly over the headstock using the top veneer as the template.
Making of headstock vol 4 - YouTube
Making of headstock vol 4 - YouTube
LOL
Well, that would be 60 euros incl shipping for 24 bottles... still half of what you have to pay, but I doubt if it's okay with Customs :scowl:
Isn´t Finland part of the EU? There shouldn´t be any customs right?
That looks like a very shallow cutter which makes more sense. The balance between control and the router making its own decisions is very fine with longer cutters. That looks about a 1/4" depth of cut? Sorry about constantly mixing up metric and imperial. Metric is great for instruments and imperial better for engineering.
Isn´t Finland part of the EU? There shouldn´t be any customs right?
Didn't think of that, you're right.. I'm kind of used to the fact you cannot freely ship alcoholic beverages, cigaretes etcetera across the border. Amount is limited and it's charged by customs. But I guess this no longer goes between EU countries. Not sure though..
That's how I did it, but my bit was longer and the end of the headstock a lot smaller, that made it difficult. Also, I hate the fact that the base of the router covers up the working piece completely.
That looks like a very shallow cutter which makes more sense. The balance between control and the router making its own decisions is very fine with longer cutters. That looks about a 1/4" depth of cut? Sorry about constantly mixing up metric and imperial. Metric is great for instruments and imperial better for engineering.
Why would imperial be better for engineering? I don't see imperial being better in any way..
Metric is fine for people with ten fingers and I certainly prefer it. Imperial could arguably be construed as being better for working with divisions, fractions and ratios.
I kind of grew up with both, so losing one would be somewhat of a loss. I often express things as simple fractions for clarity....0,9525mm seems more of an overly precise metric measurement in comparison to the elegant 3/8".
I kind of grew up with both, so losing one would be somewhat of a loss. I often express things as simple fractions for clarity....0,9525mm seems more of an overly precise metric measurement in comparison to the elegant 3/8".
That's a good point. It's easier to refer to half an inch than to 12,7 mm. But from a Metric point of view so is 1 cm, opposed to 0.3937"
Each unity has it's fractions and its integers.. As a perfectionist I always measure down to at least halves of a millimeter and when working on a bass guitar, the more precision the better (hurray for my digital caliper!). But to truly understand Imperial, one would've to grow up with it I guess...
Totally agree, is precisely those fractions of an inch where I struggle the most, I mean is just simple algebra but slows down the conversion a lot. It´s already challenging dealing with the luthier/woodworking nomenclature (in a foreign language)...
5/32" ... come on!
Had to take that off of my chest
I have a laminate trimmer and I believe it´s the perfect tool for this task since it´s light weight and have a transparent base. Still you need to be very careful to keep the base flat over the HS surface, it´s easy to incline it unintentionally. I think that having the workpiece well fixed and in a comfortable position is also a key factor for success.
Growing up with a father in construction, (and in the U.S.) I have no problem with Imperial. I see 5/32, and my mind just automatically thinks 4/32=2/16=1/8, and I visualize a 32nd over 1/8th. And because I can visualize 1 inch Im good. Ive gotten better at Metric in my old age, but the only way I can visualize it is in relation to Imperial. Like 12mm = 1/2", 14mm = 9/16", and 19mm = 3/4". I know its not exact, but Ive been forced to utilize Metric because all my (American) cars are Metric now. Luckily, i dont run into it often in relation to building guitars and basses.
I'm lucky I suppose. I've been an engineering draughtsman all my life so by the time the British adopted the metric sytem in 1975 I'd already been working in imperial measurements for about 17 years. And because engineering drawings are always in decimal units I can tell you, without having to think about it, that 5/32" is 0.15625". Metric took a bit of getting used to at first but it soon became second nature. Now I know that 1mm is as near as dammit 40 'thou' so that 5/32" is near enough 4mm but if we want to be picky it's 3.96875.
By the way, did you know that the French for 'inch' is 'pouce', which also means 'thumb'.
Sorry for hijacking your thread Rob.
By the way, did you know that the French for 'inch' is 'pouce', which also means 'thumb'.
Sorry for hijacking your thread Rob.
By the way, did you know that the French for 'inch' is 'pouce', which also means 'thumb'.
Sorry for hijacking your thread Rob.
No hijacking, just some small talk around the topic while not building.. that's okay with me
In Dutch, an inch is called an 'Engelse duim' which literally translates to 'English thumb'. Why _English_ thumb? We had a unit called 'duim' (thumb) too.. but it was somewhat larger than the English thumb. It's not officially used anymore, but construction workers still call a folding ruler a 'duimstok', which translates to 'thumb stick'. Nowadays we almost exclusively use the Metric system in the Netherlands.
Onto the truss rod adjustment nut access cavity... I didn't route the channel all the way to the headstock, but stopped just before where the nut goes. Then, I use a round file (and a lot of patience) to create this cavity. It's not quick, but it gives you a lot of control, which I like for such task (you don't want to remove to much wood at this spot and the result has to look good as well). After a while:
It took me exactly one hour to get a good fit and a nice result:
I test fitted all three rods and I think it looks good, so it's time to do some finishing touches on the channels and glue the rods in. But first, the test fit:
Link Removed
Next stressful job is glueing the rods in with slow curing epoxy. I will probably only glue the truss rod at the end. I could also not glue it in at all, so I will be able to pull it out one day, when it needs a truss rod fix. The channel is tight enough so I think it's possible. Not sure though...
It took me exactly one hour to get a good fit and a nice result:
I test fitted all three rods and I think it looks good, so it's time to do some finishing touches on the channels and glue the rods in. But first, the test fit:
Link Removed
Next stressful job is glueing the rods in with slow curing epoxy. I will probably only glue the truss rod at the end. I could also not glue it in at all, so I will be able to pull it out one day, when it needs a truss rod fix. The channel is tight enough so I think it's possible. Not sure though...
I wouldn't glue the rod at all. Instead, put bathroom sealant into the rod cavity. Since it is tight, i would say one pea-sized drop of sealant every 50,8mm. X'p
Just need to insure against any rattle rather than sticking it.
Just need to insure against any rattle rather than sticking it.
Rob, In my experience the TR access it too tight width wise. When rotating the wrench, it´ll make dings on the sides of the cavity. At least that appears to be the case judging by the pictures. You might want to test it.
I´m with Prostheta, you just need to assure no rattling. Another easy trick that Jerzy recommends is using electric tape, just some turns around the TR.
I´m with Prostheta, you just need to assure no rattling. Another easy trick that Jerzy recommends is using electric tape, just some turns around the TR.
I use acrylic sealant instead of silicone just to make sure that no silicone gets to the instrument. Silicone (if it gets to the surface of the bass) ruins the finish so easily. Few dabs of acrylic sealant in the tr cavity and waxed tr is my way to go.
Marko
Marko
That's funny.. you made my day
. Thanks for the advice!The access is tight, but I have a very long and straight wrench. Because it's in the same path as the rod, there's no problem at all. If you would use a 90 degrees bent wrench or a short one with a handgrip, you would indeed damage the sides. Although a larger access cavity would be more comfortable, I do not have much room on such a small headstock and with the right tools, it's just fine the way it is. On top of that, it's not something you have to adjust daily.
Thanks for the advice. I always mix up those sealants (figuratively, not literally)... so acrylic sealant and wax, sounds good. I'm still tempted to glue in the end, but
I couldn't agree more. Silicone tulee perseestä!
Thanks to Google Translate I now know what that means.. I won't use silicone... I promise
Before I was ready to glue in the carbon rods, I checked the depth of the channels a few times, made one of them deeper with a scraper and plugged the end of the left channel, because it was a little bit too long:
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Then I prepared for glueing. I taped of the truss rod channel - don't want any glue in there, masked the headstock for the same reason and attached a role of wax paper on one end:
Link Removed
I used slow setting epoxy from Araldite, gives you a 2 hour open clamp time, so no stress at all
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After applying a very thin layer of glue on three sides I carefully slided them in, wiped of the excess and rolled out the wax paper. I hope that this will be easy to peel off and it will definitely prevent that the clamping caul will get glued to my neck blank!
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I used another neck blank as a clamping caul. I heard that such carbon rods tend to float out of the channel when using epoxy.. think I got that covered:
And I'll leave it like that over night...
Link Removed
Then I prepared for glueing. I taped of the truss rod channel - don't want any glue in there, masked the headstock for the same reason and attached a role of wax paper on one end:
Link Removed
I used slow setting epoxy from Araldite, gives you a 2 hour open clamp time, so no stress at all
Link Removed
After applying a very thin layer of glue on three sides I carefully slided them in, wiped of the excess and rolled out the wax paper. I hope that this will be easy to peel off and it will definitely prevent that the clamping caul will get glued to my neck blank!
Link Removed
I used another neck blank as a clamping caul. I heard that such carbon rods tend to float out of the channel when using epoxy.. think I got that covered:
And I'll leave it like that over night...
