Thanks for your advice, but you're not talking about the same ferrules. So it is impossible for you to say if it will fit. I posted the link of the ones I have. They are not ribbed on the outside.
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Build II - Paradox MJ5 - New design!
- Thread starter roberthabraken
- Start date
Thanks for your advice, but you're not talking about the same ferrules. So it is impossible for you to say if it will fit. I posted the link of the ones I have. They are not ribbed on the outside.
Thanks!
I looked up those ribbed ones, same as StewMac has. Those are 3/8" in diameter (~ 9.5 mm). They will fit in 10 mm holes, although you should use a 3/8" bit.
The ones I have are 10.5 mm and do not fit in 10 mm holes. I tested it to be sure, but the outcome wasn't a surprise.
As brad point drill bits, as well as forstner bits go per mm, you don't have 10.5 mm bits. There are 11 mm bits, but not as a brad point (less precise ones are available, those single blades, don't know how you call them). I want a snug fit, so maybe I need some kind of imperial size.
I will visit the hobby store to look for a solution.
I looked up those ribbed ones, same as StewMac has. Those are 3/8" in diameter (~ 9.5 mm). They will fit in 10 mm holes, although you should use a 3/8" bit.
The ones I have are 10.5 mm and do not fit in 10 mm holes. I tested it to be sure, but the outcome wasn't a surprise.
As brad point drill bits, as well as forstner bits go per mm, you don't have 10.5 mm bits. There are 11 mm bits, but not as a brad point (less precise ones are available, those single blades, don't know how you call them). I want a snug fit, so maybe I need some kind of imperial size.
I will visit the hobby store to look for a solution.
Fractional inch sizes would not be your best bet. In inch system drills, a machinist's letter drill is much closer.
13/32" = .4063" = 10.32 mm
Z = .4130" = 10.49 mm
10.5 mm = .4134"
27/64" = .4219" = 10.72 mm
I don't know whether they ship to Europe, but McMaster-Carr has half a dozen versions of both the Z drill and the true 10.5 mm bit.
13/32" = .4063" = 10.32 mm
Z = .4130" = 10.49 mm
10.5 mm = .4134"
27/64" = .4219" = 10.72 mm
I don't know whether they ship to Europe, but McMaster-Carr has half a dozen versions of both the Z drill and the true 10.5 mm bit.
Thanks Pete! I just visited the hobby store and found a good quality 11 mm brad point bit. I'm going to test the fit with that (maybe the finish will fill in the gap). They also had a 10.5 mm metal drill bit, but I prefer a wood bit and it was in a set of about 20 bits that I do not need, costing 35 euros in total. If I'm not satisfied with the 11 mm brad point wood bit, I am going to visit a specialized tool store in the next week.
Thread cleaned. I don't speak Dutch per se, but as my first wife was Dutch I know an insult when I hear one. Disrespect is disrespect in any language, and as such is not allowed at Talkbass. Repeat offenses in this thread will result in double infractions.
My feelings exactly.
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"Oh, My..."
wraub
After checking everything again I prepared for drilling one of the scariest mounting holes of the bass:
Link Removed
And ready. Drilled exactly on the marked spots. So far, so good:
Link Removed
Now, there's no way back:
Link Removed
String through holes are yet to be made. I tried fitting it in a 11 mm hole and it's a bit loose, but with only one to two layers of masking tape it's a snug fit. With the finish incorporated, 11 mm is probably going to do the trick. Now I need to find a way to make the five holes align perfectly.
Only 49 holes left. And the neck profile.
Link Removed
And ready. Drilled exactly on the marked spots. So far, so good:
Link Removed
Now, there's no way back:
Link Removed
String through holes are yet to be made. I tried fitting it in a 11 mm hole and it's a bit loose, but with only one to two layers of masking tape it's a snug fit. With the finish incorporated, 11 mm is probably going to do the trick. Now I need to find a way to make the five holes align perfectly.
Only 49 holes left. And the neck profile.
Hopkins
Commercial User
I'm thinking you gotta go with the red man. The bass is looking awesome as is, but I think the red will really set it off.
I was thinking a red dye, sand off the high points, then, red mixed with the lacquer, for a good color coat. It will really pop, like a PRS!!!
In a guitar factory that a friend of mine works at as the primary painter, they use a blue dye first, sand that off, and then apply the red. That really pops!
Thanks all for the nice words and votes for the red 
That's a good tip, I thought black first, sand back and then apply red; never heard this one before, I'll see if I can try that.
That's a good tip, I thought black first, sand back and then apply red; never heard this one before, I'll see if I can try that.
Three pots through the pickguard. I need to look for long shaft pots I guess, because the pickguard and the top together are about 8.5 mm thick and regular pots only have 3/8" of thread, which would leave me no more than 1 mm of thread.
Is that what you meant?
