Build II - Paradox MJ5 - New design!

[MarkA]

Short but informative video! The difference was much more marked than I'd have thought! Based on that, as long as the endpoints (maximum bright and maximum dark) are the same and there are no other ill effects, my preference is strongly for the logarithmic taper.

I wonder, now, whether the pots on my late 80s EMG P/J set are logarithmic or linear...

I learned (as I stated in my previous post) that volume should be logarithmic (also called audio taper) and tone should be a linear pot. But I read some threads where people say you should also use a logarithmic pot for tone purposes. So I did some more research and came across the following vid:



Of course, it's still a personal preference, but based on these findings I am definitely going for a logarithmic pot for both volume and tone on this bass. So Pete was right I guess

Just wanted to share, great to see someone demonstrating different pots for different purposes (he has more videos on YouTube about the topic).

 

[roberthabraken]

Out standing work Rob, I'm enjoying seeing your thought process and seeing this bass come alive.

(MO) I think it will balance out with all the hardware on, I have a feeling you already plan to do this but, you can just place bridge etc. in place and have a look.

Again, job well done

Thank you for the nice words mister! I guess you're right, that it will balance out with all the hardware on. It just looked so heavy on there (got used to an empty PG I guess).

I think the knobs look great! They fit really well with the look and the size of the PG.

Thanks!

Those knobs look fine. They'll look even better with the chrome picking up red reflections from the body.

LOL... if I wouldn't know any better I'd thought you were talking me into things...
But the black and red dye / stain arrived yesterday, so I am definitely going to do some test pieces!

Agreed...keep the knobs...carry on...

I feel that Hipshot's "O-Ring" knobs would suit. The rubber rings tie in with the pickguard lamination and body pinstripe to my eye.

I know them, thanks for sharing, but to be honest I don't like the design...

Short but informative video! The difference was much more marked than I'd have thought! Based on that, as long as the endpoints (maximum bright and maximum dark) are the same and there are no other ill effects, my preference is strongly for the logarithmic taper.

I wonder, now, whether the pots on my late 80s EMG P/J set are logarithmic or linear...

Same thoughts I had upon seeing this video. Not sure how you can spot the difference on a pot.. couldn't see any markings on mine, or indication what kind or brand pot it is (I ordered these: [Invalid or Expired Link Removed]).

 

[miziomix]

Looking good Rob. Good call on the knobs. It's coming together finally

 

[roberthabraken]

Looking good Rob. Good call on the knobs. It's coming together finally

Thanks!! Yes, looking back at it the next day makes me feel better about the knobs, it's okay as it is. And yes.. finally is the right word, it's taking some time isn't it?

 

[miziomix]

Thanks!! Yes, looking back at it the next day makes me feel better about the knobs, it's okay as it is. And yes.. finally is the right word, it's taking some time isn't it?

No worries Rob. It's just taking exactly the time it needs. Not a minute longer

 

[roberthabraken]

No worries Rob. It's just taking exactly the time it needs. Not a minute longer

Good one!

 

[wednesdayagain]

Just found this. That body shape is one of the nicest I've seen.

 

[roberthabraken]

Just found this. That body shape is one of the nicest I've seen.

Thank you very much Darren, great to hear you like it

 

[roberthabraken]

Just a minor update: I installed the pots and marked the size and shape of the recesses I have to make. I first wanted to use a smaller forstner bit to drill out the desired shapes, but I figured the center point of the bit would then go through the entire top (which is 6 mm thick, I need a recess of at least 3 mm and the center point of the forstner bit also protrudes 3 mm). So I figured I'd better use a Dremel or a router. Alas, the Dremel was unable to reach the desired depth (I need the depth of the control cavity plus the 3 mm I want to remove) and the router just reaches the desired depth but would cover up the entire cavity, making it impossible for me to see what I'm doing... so I made some measurements and now I think a 22 mm forstner bit would remove just enough material, while I could locate the center point inside the hole the pot goes through, to prevent drilling holes in my top around that hole. I'll stop by the hobby store tomorrow, I hope I can find one.

After this rather time consuming adventure with no result, I only managed to do this today, but at least it's something:

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[roberthabraken]

Got some more things done tonight. First, I drilled 3 mm deep recesses with a 25 mm forstner bit for the control pots, came out nice (I know it's _inside_ the cavity, but still...):

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Kinda looks cool with the pots installed:

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And now, they do fit as you can see:

I also drilled the tuner holes:

And did a test install of the tuners to determine the right angle and the screw locations:

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Too late to continue now, so the actual drilling of those small holes will have too wait.

Almost there!

 

[wraub]

This thread has confirmed 2 things for me.

1. I really like ash as a body wood, the way the contours of the body direct the grain. Just looks really cool.
and,
B. I really like the way this bass is shaping up. Just looks really cool.

Really digging it, good Sir.

wraub

 

[Tribbinator]

Such...clean...work. It looks great.

 

[PDGood]

The quality of your work is really amazing. It was apparent from the beginning, but it's really nice to see as it all comes together.

 

[Thumpin_P]

Drooling......

 

[bassingeorge]

I can't wait to see it red! And shiny! this bass is gonna rock!

 

[roberthabraken]

This thread has confirmed 2 things for me.

1. I really like ash as a body wood, the way the contours of the body direct the grain. Just looks really cool.
and,
B. I really like the way this bass is shaping up. Just looks really cool.

Really digging it, good Sir.

wraub

+1 on both points Thanks!!

Such...clean...work. It looks great.

The quality of your work is really amazing. It was apparent from the beginning, but it's really nice to see as it all comes together.

Drooling......

I can't wait to see it red! And shiny! this bass is gonna rock!

Thanks guys!! It's really nice to get such great feedback, really appreciate it!


I also have a minor update. Yesterday I installed the tuners, both strap holders with felt washer and the output jack. This only leaves the string through holes and the neck shaping on my things to do list before I can start finishing the bass!

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[roberthabraken]

I'm happy!

Why?...

Take a look at this:

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And at the front:

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This was by far the scariest task of the hole building process, even more than the bridge grounding wire channel... of course I practiced my intended method first, but still, it's scary. So you can imagine I'm very happy with the outcome! The holes are aligned perfectly and the distance between them is als equally devided.

I marked the locations at the front, measuring them to check distance and alignment, and drilled 5 mm holes (not completely through, about 1/3" shy of the back of the body). This went well, and it has to, because this step actually determined how the result would be in the end; this step determined the precision of the alignment and the mutual distance of the holes.

After that I removed the body and drilled the 5 mm bit completely through the board that served as a drill press table extension. Then I simply put my 5 mm in that hole and put an 11 mm brad point bit in the drill press:

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I flipped over the body, put it over the back end of the 5 mm drill bit with the freshly drilled holes and lowered the 11 mm drill bit, without any evidence it was in the right spot, sweat it my hands and shaking nervously (hardly exaggerating). After four holes I gained some confidence:

Luckily this method turned out to work very well and actually it was quite simple. Anyhow, I'm glad it's over . Here's a shot with the ferrules in:

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Lastly, I must admit it didn't went as perfect as could be: the holes from the back are slightly deeper than planned. I only needed 9.5 mm of depth and the actual depth now varies from 10.5 mm to about 11.2 mm. This is not good, because the strings will pull the ferrules into the soft Swamp Ash. The solution I came up with is to put small washers in (M5) underneath the ferrules or make some wooden plugs. Any comments on that would be greatly appreciated. I'm not too dissapointed with this small miscalculation, because it's easy to repair and not visible in the end.

So that's it. All holes are drilled. Now back to the neck profile! Though I'll have to be patient, because I can't get any shop time in the next four days or so...

 

[Prostheta]

If the pulling becomes an issue then borrow or buy a piloted counterbore to recess the ferrules? Worst comes to the worst, dropping a washer or two in won't hurt as long as they are not loose. Again, I respect your attention to detail.

 

[wraub]

Perhaps drop some CA in there to harden the wood? Just a random thought, probably way wrong...

wraub

 

[pilotjones]

I think you're looking to try to make a perfect thickness shim for each ferrule, so that the ferrule flange contacts the body simultaneously with the ferrule end clamping the shim. Rather than do that, if you're worried about compression of the ash, I'd consider a few things:
- no one else seems to be worried about this, and it's pretty unlikely that everyone drills their holes to just the right depth. So maybe it's not a problem?
- If you are worried, why not make a test piece to see whether it's a legitimate concern
- rather than do the shim thing, I would put CA on the OD of the barrels and push them in to the right depth. No way string tension is going to simultaneously break the ~2 cm^2 of bond surface in shear, and crush the wood.