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Build II - Paradox MJ5 - New design!
- Thread starter roberthabraken
- Start date
Is there some rule that TB builds must only be basses?
As for Herr Schrodinger... If you just don't look at the bass, it'll be perfect.
wraub
It's called Talk_BASS_ isn't it?
Yeah, I guess I'll have to stay out of the shop from now on
I have a guitar thread up here, I've seen others too. You should just go for it and post yours here too.
Well, if that's the general opinion, I'd love to share my build on TB! I really like this forum. If I start one, I'll drop a link in here.
About the bass: the seventh coat is on. I decided that's the last for leveling the bass. Once level, I put the eight coat over it as Hopkins suggested (to get rid of the witness lines) and then I think I have a good amount of finish on it before final sanding and polishing.
There's one peculiar thing about the varnish: it starts to be less coorporative. The sixth coat dried rather wavy and didn't level as well as the previous layers did. Seems that either the dropped humidity (36% right now) or the fact that the finish on finish doesn't react the same as finish on wood with this specific type of varnish. Either way, if I apply it, it starts drying before it even left my brush and when I get back to it just like 5 seconds later, I can mark the wet coat in a way that it doesn't level out completely anymore. Strange, so I work quickly and try to get it right right away. I hope after sanding you won't see this anymore and the seventh coat went a little bit better, but it's strange nonetheless.
Now I've got 24 hours for some sleep and my day job.
Another possibility is that the composition of the remaining varnish left in the can has changed. While you are applying varnish and the can is open, the solvent is evaporating from the varnish. After 8 coats of varnish, I'd imagine a significant portion of the solvent has evaporated from the can, especially in conditions that dry. You could test this by adding a small amount of the recommended solvent (probably mineral spirits) to the remaining varnish and see if that makes it behave more like it did when you first opened the can. Even if you don't need the varnish to finish this bass, it would be good information to have for your future projects.
I'm really looking forward to seeing the finished product!
That's a very plausable cause, didn't think of that yet, thanks! I'm about halfway through the can, so that's not that far empty, but it takes some time to apply one layer, so the open time of the can may be over 6 hours now (in total). At this low humidity, that might evaporate the solvent (they suggest to thin with turpentine on the can) rather quick.
It's a good tip, because, if the leveling goes well, I might just buy a new can (250 ml) for ten bucks and save me the hassle of getting the current varnish right again. I need that last layer to get on there perfect, to minimize any sanding at the last stage.
Newsflash: seventh coat dried rather well. It's flat and even in general. The small irregularities disappeared almost completely in the process of applying consecutive layers. The spread of the last coat isn't perfect, but way better than the previous one. I feel this is just the right timing for a level sand action (although I have to wait for the finish to cure some more).
Thanks guys! All is looking reasonably well today, in daylight, and I removed the attachment to hold the body (needed to carefully cut it loose where the varnish blended from the body onto the stick) and want to remove the masking tape from the fingerboard too. But before I do that, I've got a question for you guys:
Normally, I would mask all parts, varnish, wait a few hours, remove the tape while the varnish is still a bit soft so the varnish doesn't lock up the tape. This way, the tape doesn't damage the varnish edge when taken off. But someone in this thread mentioned to let it dry completely, and then remove the tape. That's what I did this time, so I didn't have to re-mask the fingerboard like seven times...
Now my question is: I varnished right over the edge of the masking tape (of course, right?). If I just pull if off, I'm afraid I'll peel the varnish off of the neck.... what is common practise? Do you use a sharp knife to cut over the edge of the tape before removing? May be something trivial, but don't want to screw this up...
Thanks in advance!
Normally, I would mask all parts, varnish, wait a few hours, remove the tape while the varnish is still a bit soft so the varnish doesn't lock up the tape. This way, the tape doesn't damage the varnish edge when taken off. But someone in this thread mentioned to let it dry completely, and then remove the tape. That's what I did this time, so I didn't have to re-mask the fingerboard like seven times...
Now my question is: I varnished right over the edge of the masking tape (of course, right?). If I just pull if off, I'm afraid I'll peel the varnish off of the neck.... what is common practise? Do you use a sharp knife to cut over the edge of the tape before removing? May be something trivial, but don't want to screw this up...
Thanks in advance!
Now my question is: I varnished right over the edge of the masking tape (of course, right?). If I just pull if off, I'm afraid I'll peel the varnish off of the neck.... what is common practise? Do you use a sharp knife to cut over the edge of the tape before removing? May be something trivial, but don't want to screw this up...
Rob,
I wouldn't worry too much about removing varnish when you remove the tape. The top edge surface will be blended out when you buff and shouldn't be problematic. Personally, I wouldn't risk the chance of damaging anything with a sharp x-acto at this point. Once I get to final surface coats my entire workbench is banished of anything and everything that could scuff up the clearcoat.
Lonnybass
Rob,
I wouldn't worry too much about removing varnish when you remove the tape. The top edge surface will be blended out when you buff and shouldn't be problematic. Personally, I wouldn't risk the chance of damaging anything with a sharp x-acto at this point. Once I get to final surface coats my entire workbench is banished of anything and everything that could scuff up the clearcoat.
Lonnybass
But how could the tape break the varnish in a straight line, being thick and solid already? Well, I could give it a try in a corner or so, but I had to cut the bar loose from the body, couldn't even break it off...
Oh I think I see what you are saying...the "varnish as glue" effect. Hmmmm. I'd probably still stick with the plan of removing as much of the tape as possible by hand. I'd be surprised if you caused damage in the varnish along the masked area.
Lonnybass
Thanks Lonny, just coming back from the shop, my worries were, mostly, unfounded. The tape (to me surprisingly) cut perfectly through the varnish leaving a clean and straight edge. Only in places where the varnish was applied a little bit heavy over the tape, I had to make a small incision to release the tape.
What I was worried about only happened twice in a very small spot: the varnish lifted as a small film, losing it's attachment with the wood and showing a small bubble of air underneath. I applied some pressure with a finger to 'put it back' and decided to leave it alone. Maybe, if the varnish is fully cured, it's solid enough to not go any further. If not, disaster may happen and the varnish may peel off while playing
. But, maybe, I'm just seeing things... . Edit: if I burnish the edge into the binding with fine sanding paper and maybe apply one last layer before finishing the bass off, I think it might seal the edges.I will post some photos later tonight to show the current state the bass is in.
As promised, the bass with seven coats of varnish on it, but unsanded and unpolished. Couldn't resist trying the pickguard on (again).... Tried to get the most realistic pictures regarding the varnishing result, colour and grain. What do you think?
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Not perfect, certainly not, but considering my lack of experience I'm okay with it. Should be good enough to sand and polish to a pretty okay finish. And it's durable as well. Next time I'll invest in learning to spray lacquer though.. don't like using a brush so much anymore.
You can see I also need to do some fretwork, as the edges are still rather sharp and the frets aren't leveled and polished as well. But you know what they say... save the best for last
.
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Not perfect, certainly not, but considering my lack of experience I'm okay with it. Should be good enough to sand and polish to a pretty okay finish. And it's durable as well. Next time I'll invest in learning to spray lacquer though.. don't like using a brush so much anymore.
You can see I also need to do some fretwork, as the edges are still rather sharp and the frets aren't leveled and polished as well. But you know what they say... save the best for last
.
Hopkins
Commercial User
I think its time to start knocking the high spots off of those wavy areas. If you don't start now it will be a lot of work trying to get it level later, and you will still have the danger of sanding through to get it completely level.
Doing it slowly throughout the process will make your final leveling process easier and reduce the risk of sanding through when you should be finishing up your finish.
Doing it slowly throughout the process will make your final leveling process easier and reduce the risk of sanding through when you should be finishing up your finish.
As you can read above that's what I've planned; in short: level, coat, finish sand, polish.
I first planned to level after the fifth layer as you suggested, but found it a bit too soon. Glad I decided to continue, because it is more level now and of course thicker.
Hopkins
Commercial User
