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Build number 4

...coming from a non-luthier.

On doublebasses, violins, etc., the inner edges of the f-holes are often covered in a flat black ("lamp black" according to a quick, un-thorough google). I've always liked the look of this, and think that it helps to bring out the clean edges of the f-holes (and make the cavity look dark and mysterious). I've often thought the hollowbody basses I see people making would benefit from the same. You could even blacken the inside of the chamber (if there's a practical way to do that).

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Just a thought. Looks great so far, and will look good either way.
 
A question or two about the finish... I have decided on doing a hand-rubbed finish, something like Tung Oil or similar. I would like a nice honey-amber color. I know that Tung Oil does not amber significantly. Could I use something like TransTint or some other dye to get the amber color I am looking for? In addition, if I wanted to do a very subtle amber burst, could that be accomplished by a hand-rubbed dye or some other colorant? What is the best way to accomplish that. (I would rather not spray lacquer).

This reminded me of a video I've seen a while ago, took some time to find it again, but would this be of any help?

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It's a rubbed-on sunburst using dye, so no spraying and very nice results. I would like to try this myself some day.
 
This reminded me of a video I've seen a while ago, took some time to find it again, but would this be of any help?

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It's a rubbed-on sunburst using dye, so no spraying and very nice results. I would like to try this myself some day.

Rob,

I did a fairly thorough search on TB before posting my last entry, and this was the video I found that inspired me the most. After looking a little bit more this morning (at the shop again today), I think I will go for that method. It looks difficult to master, but I will practice on scrap and just see what happens. Thanks for re-posting this video so it is easy for me to find.

MarkA, that is an excellent suggestion. I may attempt to do something of that nature. If I use black or another dark color to bring out the grain, when I sand it back, the edges of the f-holes would remain dark (at least in theory).

Thanks again for the help. Have a great weekend.
 
Guys, his computer has been on the fritz for a while. I am sure that, once he gets the bugs worked out, there will be a thorough gallery. Believe me...this is a thing of beauty! He has overcome some pretty hefty problems, too, to get here. One heck of a guy and one heck of a player, to boot!

Great working with you, J, and I wish you all the best!

Thumpin_P
 
It looks about 9 or 10 feet tall.

Yeah, finding a sting supplier was difficult. :rollno: (it's just a 35" scale)


Thanks to Thumpin P for the SPOILER!!!! :mad: Just kidding. My experience at R-V has come to a close, and I am now home (parents' basement) in Omaha. Within the next couple days, I will try to find time to post a few more shots of the complete instrument. It's gonna be a little hectic with moving my stuff back in, driving my girlfriend back up to college, applying for jobs, etc... but I will find time to make it work!

Thanks to everyone for showing interest in this build. I am very excited about it, and I hope to perfect it over time.
 
Alright, finally....here are some pictures of the final touches to make this a finished project.

Body ready for Tung Oil:
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After:
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The flame really popped. I was very excited with how it looked. I applied 9 coats of Tung Oil (Minwax stuff... 3 coats a day, 0000 steel wool between each day).
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Hanging in the R-V Gallery:
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As you can see, I made an ebony bridge with a brass saddle, but I used the Hipshot D-style posts since they were already installed. The handmade bridge was necessary because I had a small (...huge) crisis with string spacing, and this was my solution.
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Thank you to all of you for looking and for the helpful suggestions! I hope to start another one of these as soon as I have the funds.