Building a body to fit a neck.

[retslock]

I’m not a luthier but a hobbyist builder. I successfully made a body to suit a brand new un-drilled neck but I also have a parts bass I put together and I’m not happy with the body that came from another bass.
Am I wise to think that I can make a new body to suit this neck that already has the neck screw holes drilled? If so, where/how can I learn to align the neck screw holes with new ones on the body I build or should I just plug the old ones and re-drill?

 

[2groggy]

I usually plug the holes and re-drill.

 

[Bruce Johnson]

There are several good techniques for transferring the locations of existing screw holes in a neck to the inside of a blank neck pocket in a new body.

I think the easiest is to make up a set of four little double-ended screws. Short screws with points on both ends. Most instrument neck screws are #8 wood screws or #8 sheet metal screws. Find four short ones, 1/2" long or less. Chuck each one in an electric drill and hold it, spinning, up against a grinding wheel or belt sander. Grind the head off and turn it into a little point.

With a set of them made up, turn them gently down into the holes into the neck, leaving the new point sticking out 1/8".

Now set the neck down into the new neck pocket, checking the alignment with straightedges, and press the points in gently. There's your four marks.

Enlarge the marks a little bit with a small center punch. Drill down through the body with a small bit, like 1/16". Then use a brad point bit to drill in from the front and back, to bring the hole to the right size. The brad point bit will accurately follow the 1/16" hole and meet in the middle.

That's one technique. I can think of three or four others.

 

[rudy4444]

I like to use Bruce's method. Here's what it looks like to transfer screw locations to the pocket:

 

[retslock]

There are several good techniques for transferring the locations of existing screw holes in a neck to the inside of a blank neck pocket in a new body.

I think the easiest is to make up a set of four little double-ended screws. Short screws with points on both ends. Most instrument neck screws are #8 wood screws or #8 sheet metal screws. Find four short ones, 1/2" long or less. Chuck each one in an electric drill and hold it, spinning, up against a grinding wheel or belt sander. Grind the head off and turn it into a little point.

With a set of them made up, turn them gently down into the holes into the neck, leaving the new point sticking out 1/8".

Now set the neck down into the new neck pocket, checking the alignment with straightedges, and press the points in gently. There's your four marks.

Enlarge the marks a little bit with a small center punch. Drill down through the body with a small bit, like 1/16". Then use a brad point bit to drill in from the front and back, to bring the hole to the right size. The brad point bit will accurately follow the 1/16" hole and meet in the middle.

That's one technique. I can think of three or four others.

Great explanation thank you. I sort of imagined something like this might be possible but I was short on detail. I’ll try this method. Thanks again.

 

[WillyW]

just eyeball it, what could go wrong?

 

[retslock]

I like to use Bruce's method. Here's what it looks like to transfer screw locations to the pocket:

Thank you. The knowledge, wisdom and helpfulness of this forum amazes me.

 

[retslock]

just eyeball it, what could go wrong?

Only everything.

 

[AudioTaper]

I used a transfer method using playdoh. See post 89 and 91
Winter Build Off 2022 - The PeavEsh StinGer

 

[Bruce Johnson]

I used a transfer method using playdoh. See post 89 and 91
Winter Build Off 2022 - The PeavEsh StinGer

Hah! The old Play-Doh trick! Another technique that sounds silly, but works.

Similar is the Carbon Paper trick. Remember carbon paper? Typewriters? Carbon paper is still available in office supply stores, and it's very useful for Luthier's layouts. I use it frequently to transfer Cad computer printouts to wood.

To transfer the screw holes, place some carbon paper on the neck heel surface, carbon side up, with a small piece of paper on it. Thumb press all around the edges and the holes. Turn the paper over, and there's your pattern. Cut it out with scissors and lay it in the neck pocket. Center punch the hole locations.

 

[Bruce Johnson]

One of us here on Luthier's Corner ought to start a thread about Luthier's Layout Tricks. There are hundreds of tricks and special home-made tools, and classic layout techniques that help us draw the lines we need to follow. I have several drawers in my main tool cabinet full of layout tools. And more in my machine shop.

Learning to do layouts and measurements is a fundamental part of building things.

 

[retslock]

Hah! The old Play-Doh trick! Another technique that sounds silly, but works.

Similar is the Carbon Paper trick. Remember carbon paper? Typewriters? Carbon paper is still available in office supply stores, and it's very useful for Luthier's layouts. I use it frequently to transfer Cad computer printouts to wood.

To transfer the screw holes, place some carbon paper on the neck heel surface, carbon side up, with a small piece of paper on it. Thumb press all around the edges and the holes. Turn the paper over, and there's your pattern. Cut it out with scissors and lay it in the neck pocket. Center punch the hole locations.

Great explanation. Thanks.

 

[agfrag]

To transfer the screw holes, place some carbon paper on the neck heel surface, carbon side up, with a small piece of paper on it. Thumb press all around the edges and the holes. Turn the paper over, and there's your pattern. Cut it out with scissors and lay it in the neck pocket. Center punch the hole locations.

I just did a similar thing on a build, but I used plain printer paper, too lazy to go buy copier paper! Worked a charm transferring a neck from a $100 25.75 inch scale bass to an "ergo" body I can actually play while in the drivers seat of my car (I do lots of driving... and hours of waiting while ferrying my oldest daughter about).

Before and after neck transfer: