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Building an Equalizer (Frequencies and Circuits)

so, when does production start? :D

whenever people want to buy pedals made by me?

I've considered starting something up before, but I don't really know how to get started. I also want to get a bit more experience under my belt before I try. Also, I go back to college in a month where I don't have access to a drill... that could be a slight problem. If I wasn't living in a dorm I would be able to have a drill... but no...

I guess I'll leave myself a year to get the more experience I want/need and start a company in a year when I live in a house.

I think I'll call it Wanker Customs, or Kustums, or Kustoms

muahahaha
 
whenever people want to buy pedals made by me?

I've considered starting something up before, but I don't really know how to get started. I also want to get a bit more experience under my belt before I try. Also, I go back to college in a month where I don't have access to a drill... that could be a slight problem. If I wasn't living in a dorm I would be able to have a drill... but no...

I guess I'll leave myself a year to get the more experience I want/need and start a company in a year when I live in a house.

I think I'll call it Wanker Customs, or Kustums, or Kustoms

muahahaha

sneak the drill in :ninja: :D
 
sneak the drill in :ninja: :D

I wish... then there is the whole "I need a place to do the drilling cause there is a lot of cleanup involved" and "Man, I bet everyone within 50 yards can hear what I'm doing and are thinking ***?!?!"

OOOH more ideas (if you haven't thought of them already)

what about a switchable clean blend that would allow both fuzz and clean to utilize their own EQ circuit?
I mean, if you have 2 eqs anyway...

I like this thread :D

thats a good idea...
 
I forgot about it for a few days, I think I have a solid design down... I might post the schematic I have...

I need to order the parts, decide how big of an enclosure I need, decide if I am going to put the muff in the new enclosure, blah blah blah. the site I usually order from is down for a few more weeks too so that put a hinder on things, I have to find a new site and find all the parts, and decide if I like the prices...

I am resurrecting this to ask what situations a linear pot is better for and what situations an audio pot is better for
 
I decided to just build a 1 band parametric EQ into the LBM case, I started it today, and I got tired of doing it (haha) so I'm taking a break coming online.

I haven't bought pots yet, but at radioshack they cost twice as much as they should and are much bigger than I would like.
 
I deleted my post because I hadn't read the whole thread:D :rolleyes:

Well good luck. Just one Parametric, or one per side?

Just one afterwards.

I was messing with a large graphic EQ and I really liked the tone I got just from spiking the mids around 1k and leaving everything else at 0db

So I spent some time today making this, and I thought it was done, I tested it, and the knobs didn't change the tone at all...

Step 1: I have to check the wiring again
Step 2: I made some substitutions based on parts I had on hand, maybe I will have to switch to what the schem actually calls for :rollno:
 
how about making a dual EQ pedal with a loop for pre and post...that way, you could add ANY fuzz/whatever to it...just another brain excretion :D

hahaha, its funny, any time someone brings up with an idea for something that has to do with a project I am working on, I have already thought about it... how weird is that? I guess I just tend to overthink things.

but yeah, I thought about this, then realized it would have to be much simpler than a 4 band parametric EQ with as many options as I originally intended. especially if there were two EQs in there... that would have to be a pretty big box either way... but oh the tonal posibilities!
 
...jesus christ this thing is pissing me off...

parmet.gif


that is the schematic I am going off of, I tried substituting values that according to some research I did should have worked... I tried coming as close as possible to the suggested values... after many many many frustrations, my circuit board seams to be affecting the signal not at all

I am so enraged about this right now...

Right now, the only things that aren't what the schematic calls for is the 47uF cap in the power part is a elec. cap, it used to be a 10uF elec cap... I know this schem doesn't call for one, but the other schematics I have used called for that to be a elec... thats the only thing I can think of that could still be the problem... the other thing that isn't what the schem calls for are the resistors before and after the second opamp... they are both 1k instead of 2.7k... I don't think that would be the problem, but I might make those substitutions tomorrow when i am less pissed off

::sigh:: help!!!
 
Ohhh boy... ok...

Are we sure that this is a tested design and not just one of RG's theoretical brain storming sessions?

First, check supply voltages on all op amps. Check for half supply at all the +Vb points. Measure the output voltage of each op amp to make sure they aren't being pole-axed against the rails. Triple check your wiring, then check it again. Better yet, have some other schematic-savvy person check it for you as well.
 
Ohhh boy... ok...

Are we sure that this is a tested design and not just one of RG's theoretical brain storming sessions?

First, check supply voltages on all op amps. Check for half supply at all the +Vb points. Measure the output voltage of each op amp to make sure they aren't being pole-axed against the rails. Triple check your wiring, then check it again. Better yet, have some other schematic-savvy person check it for you as well.

not sure it is a tested design...

and have I ever told you I love you?

just wondering...

seriously though, I appreciate greatly all the help you have given me

that being said... what is pole-axed against the rails supposed to mean?
 
Yeah, that was a bit vague. If there's something amiss with the op amps the output can be driven to the maximum positive or negative voltage, which is close to the voltage of the power supply. The term "rail" is just jargon for the power supply voltage - it comes about because in schematics it is often depicted as a long, straight line that connects to every op amp in a chain.
 
Yeah, that was a bit vague. If there's something amiss with the op amps the output can be driven to the maximum positive or negative voltage, which is close to the voltage of the power supply. The term "rail" is just jargon for the power supply voltage - it comes about because in schematics it is often depicted as a long, straight line that connects to every op amp in a chain.

alright

I wont be able to fiddle with this again till tomorrow, or maybe even till sunday...

I happen to have more op-amps, maybe I will swap some out...
 

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