Building Your Own Custom Truss Rods

[ardgedee]

A quick poll, because I'm curious. How many of you reading this thread are thinking that, yeah, you might try building your own truss rods like this? Or, does this look too difficult, too expensive, not worth the trouble?

Gimme a Like on this post if you think you might really try it. I'd like to get an idea of how many of you are interested.

I'm conflicted. I don't currently have the resources to do it and don't plan to ever build at a scale that makes doing this cost-effective. But at the same time, home luthiery isn't about the cheapest bass for the money, I'm very intrigued, and to be honest if nothing I feel like I'm getting a top-notch online lesson about how truss rods work, which will be useful even for maintaining the basses I currently have.

So pencil me in under "Yes, if the stars align", I guess?

 

[Lo-E]

A quick poll, because I'm curious. How many of you reading this thread are thinking that, yeah, you might try building your own truss rods like this? Or, does this look too difficult, too expensive, not worth the trouble?

Gimme a Like on this post if you think you might really try it. I'd like to get an idea of how many of you are interested.

The metalworking involved in this is all pretty basic. I could easily see myself building one of these, although I’d be more inclined to build one of your DASR designs.

 

[Engle]

A quick poll, because I'm curious. How many of you reading this thread are thinking that, yeah, you might try building your own truss rods like this? Or, does this look too difficult, too expensive, not worth the trouble?

Gimme a Like on this post if you think you might really try it. I'd like to get an idea of how many of you are interested.

I might try it, although I was planning to follow the thread as you go through the different designs before I decide.

 

[13ghosts]

A quick poll, because I'm curious. How many of you reading this thread are thinking that, yeah, you might try building your own truss rods like this? Or, does this look too difficult, too expensive, not worth the trouble?

Gimme a Like on this post if you think you might really try it. I'd like to get an idea of how many of you are interested.

Some metalworking tools have already been ordered.

 

[Beej]

A quick poll, because I'm curious. How many of you reading this thread are thinking that, yeah, you might try building your own truss rods like this? Or, does this look too difficult, too expensive, not worth the trouble?

Gimme a Like on this post if you think you might really try it. I'd like to get an idea of how many of you are interested.

Yes, I'm planning to try all of the examples you put up - I've already ordered some of the materials, including for your DASR design (parts list taken from previous threads on the subject).

I prefer a really thin neck down at the first fret, so I like the commercial rods that only require a 9mm deep slot. The 7/16" deep slot (11.1mm) will force me to make my neck thicker than I'd prefer, so I was already thinking of how I could modify this design to make it less deep overall (hence my query on pinning both ends rather than threading). But learning about how the distance between the rods impacts the overall force the rod can impart has me rethinking that plan. Now I feel like I'm about to go all in on DASRs going forward.

 

[Slidlow]

A quick poll, because I'm curious. How many of you reading this thread are thinking that, yeah, you might try building your own truss rods like this? Or, does this look too difficult, too expensive, not worth the trouble?

Gimme a Like on this post if you think you might really try it. I'd like to get an idea of how many of you are interested.

Absolutely interested. I’ve been looking at some design and though I will probably use your designs with some modifications, I still need to start experimenting with at least one of the concepts I have. If I ever get the chance and it works I’ll post about it. I thank you for your effort.

 

[Bruce Johnson]

My particular case involves a '78 Rick 4001. Its old truss rod (hairpin type) just doesn't allow for setting relief anymore. So I'm considering building one for that, even though I've never done anything like it before. I've had the oem truss rod in and out to get an idea of how it's supposed to work.

I hope to glean enough from your posts that I could actually build a rod that would be able to slip into the existing cavity like the existing one, but function like intended.

Pipe dream perhaps, but this is why I'm watching the thread.

Oh boy.... Maybe I'll talk a little later about the infamous Rickenbacker hairpin truss rod. It's a low-profile SADR style rod with some serious design problems. I'm not really sure if you could make a stronger one that would fit into the existing cavity of the neck. I don't know what to recommend.

When I've had Rickenbackers in here where the neck bowed enough that someone snapped the truss rods, I've just pulled off the fingerboard and put in a new, better truss rod. The Rick fan club people screamed, but the owners were very happy with the bass when they got it back.

 

[Bruce Johnson]

Yes, I'm planning to try all of the examples you put up - I've already ordered some of the materials, including for your DASR design (parts list taken from previous threads on the subject).

I prefer a really thin neck down at the first fret, so I like the commercial rods that only require a 9mm deep slot. The 7/16" deep slot (11.1mm) will force me to make my neck thicker than I'd prefer, so I was already thinking of how I could modify this design to make it less deep overall (hence my query on pinning both ends rather than threading). But learning about how the distance between the rods impacts the overall force the rod can impart has me rethinking that plan. Now I feel like I'm about to go all in on DASRs going forward.

That's great! I want you guys to get into this, and experiment, modify my designs, and improve on them for your own use. I'm just trying to offer a baseline design, proven to work, and not too difficult to make. To get you started.

The materials I'm using are (obviously in 'Merican units):

• 1/4" x 3/4" 360 Brass bar stock
• 1/4" x 3/4" 6061 Aluminum bar stock
• 3/16" dia 304 Stainless Steel rod stock
• 5/16" dia 360 Brass round bar stock
• 2mm x 8mm stainless steel dowel pins
• 10-32 x 1/4" Stainless Socket Head Cap Screws

I assume you'll make yours Metric? Probably 5mm rods and 5mm x 0.8mm threads. Let us know what size bar stock you end up getting and using.

 

[BishopJP]

I am definitely going to give it a go. I have some of the tools and materials and can get the rest from McMaster since I order from them anyway.

 

[Beej]

That's great! I want you guys to get into this, and experiment, modify my designs, and improve on them for your own use. I'm just trying to offer a baseline design, proven to work, and not too difficult to make. To get you started.

The materials I'm using are (obviously in 'Merican units):

• 1/4" x 3/4" 360 Brass bar stock
• 1/4" x 3/4" 6061 Aluminum bar stock
• 3/16" dia 304 Stainless Steel rod stock
• 5/16" dia 360 Brass round bar stock
• 2mm x 8mm stainless steel dowel pins
• 10-32 x 1/4" Stainless Socket Head Cap Screws

I assume you'll make yours Metric? Probably 5mm rods and 5mm x 0.8mm threads. Let us know what size bar stock you end up getting and using.

Thanks Bruce - I'll probably work in imperial since most of my supplies come from the US. I just like to think in metric.

 

[Goatrope]

Oh boy.... Maybe I'll talk a little later about the infamous Rickenbacker hairpin truss rod. It's a low-profile SADR style rod with some serious design problems. I'm not really sure if you could make a stronger one that would fit into the existing cavity of the neck. I don't know what to recommend.

When I've had Rickenbackers in here where the neck bowed enough that someone snapped the truss rods, I've just pulled off the fingerboard and put in a new, better truss rod. The Rick fan club people screamed, but the owners were very happy with the bass when they got it back.

Lol. I don't want take this thread off track, but maybe one at a later date. I've read horror stories about them too. I figured I'd learn enough to decide how far I could go without going down the path of removing the fingerboard. If that's where I end up, I'll mail it to you.

I bought the bass new in 77/78 and it's got sentimental value. That's why I've never let anyone work on it. It needs frets too. So maybe a future topic/project.

Thanks again!

 

[Slidlow]

Lol. I don't want take this thread off track, but maybe one at a later date. I've read horror stories about them too. I figured I'd learn enough to decide how far I could go without going down the path of removing the fingerboard. If that's where I end up, I'll mail it to you.

I bought the bass new in 77/78 and it's got sentimental value. That's why I've never let anyone work on it. It needs frets too. So maybe a future topic/project.

Thanks again!

Check out this extensive truss rod replacement. Not a Rickenbacker but equally as bad truss rods.
Carvin LB75 ressurection

 

[Matt Liebenau]

A quick poll, because I'm curious. How many of you reading this thread are thinking that, yeah, you might try building your own truss rods like this? Or, does this look too difficult, too expensive, not worth the trouble?

Gimme a Like on this post if you think you might really try it. I'd like to get an idea of how many of you are interested.

It’s probably a way down the road but I intend to make at least one truss rod. I would like to see all three and compare first also.

 

[Bruce Johnson]

A preview of future chapters in this book:

Here's a batch of 10 truss rod kits that I just finished up today for Luthier Keith Horne. Keith builds beautiful Les Paul Junior-style mahogany set neck guitars. He's been using my DASR Embedded truss rods in his necks for about 5 years. I normally make up the kits of the metal parts for him; he does the routing and casting of the rods into the necks. These are my top line truss rods, like I use in all my own basses.

These kits are for set necks, headstock access, with an extended head square sleeve and socket head adjustment. The anchors are 1/2" round aluminum, threaded & pinned. The rods are 3/16" stainless with 10-32 threads. These truss rods are fully double acting, embedded in epoxy in the neck.

These DASR head assemblies are a little more complex to make, but they can be made with bench tools. I use lathes for some of the parts, to make them faster.

There was a question about spoke wheel style truss rods earlier. Here's a DASR head assembly with a spoke wheel adjusting head. I machine them up from stainless.

 

[Bruce Johnson]

I got busy with some other things, like slotting fingerboards and finishing up Scroll Basses. Plus some more turmoil here at the Lab......But I will be getting back to these truss rods real soon.

Specifically, we have a Pedulla in here for a truss rod replacement, and I think this design DADR truss rod will be just right for it. A good real world test of the design.

 

[RCH]

Dear Bruce, Thanks for taking the considerable time to share you designs and techniques. I always learn something from your posts.

 

[Bruce Johnson]

Okay, here's the custom-made DADR truss rod to go in that Pedulla neck that we're repairing. It's the same design as my first prototype, but made to the right length to fit the Pedulla neck.

On this one, the bottom rod is slip fit and pinned into both brass blocks, not threaded.

Also, I rounded off the bottoms of all the blocks, because the slot in the Pedulla neck is round bottom.

Giving it a quick test. It works smoothly, no binding or play. This is about 1/4 turn in the Forward direction.

And here's 1/4 turn in the Reverse direction.

And there's the neck it will be going into, a Pedulla 5-string. That's the original Pedulla truss rod in the foreground. The infamous little square end for adjusting is sheared off, which is common.

The new truss rod basically sets right down into the neck in the existing slot, to flush with the surface. Jeremy just needs to enlarge the opening right around the head a little bit.

I'll be documenting this repair job overall on the Scary Neck Repairs: Pedulla Truss Rods thread.

This truss rod took me 2 hours 20 minutes to make, from scratch, a custom fit application. The cost, to the Pedulla job, will be about $75. That's labor and materials.

If any of you are thinking of making truss rods like this and offering them to other Luthiers on custom order, that's about the price you'd have to charge. If you are making them one at a time. You could get the price down by having the blocks and the adjusting head barrels made up by some machine shop, a few hundred at a time. Then your labor would be cutting and threading the rods, assembling them and pinning the parts together. That might get your selling price down in the $45 range.

If you are making one of these for yourself, without lathes and milling machines, you can expect to spend about 3 hours and $15 materials per unit.

I'll say it again: I'm not trying to get into the business of building this style of truss rods on custom order for other Luthiers. I may occasionally build them for jobs like this Pedulla, or for a Luthier with a special application that really needs this type of truss rod. My own preference, for my own necks and other Luthiers who I work directly with, is the DASR Embedded rods.

I'm hoping that someone out there will take this up as a sideline business. Building and selling this type of DADR truss rods in small quantities, custom order, to small Luthiers. You are welcome to use my design.

 

[Bruce Johnson]

For those of you who are obsessed with weights: The original Pedulla truss rod weighs 161 gm; my new one is 188 gm.

 

[Beej]

For those of you who are obsessed with weights: The original Pedulla truss rod weighs 161 gm; my new one is 188 gm.

I resemble this. Have you ever weighed a bass-length bedded DASR including wood filler strip and epoxy? I'm curious about the weight, not that it's any sort of deal breaker for me.

 

[Lo-E]

For those of you who are obsessed with weights: The original Pedulla truss rod weighs 161 gm; my new one is 188 gm.

A little under an ounce heavier. It’ll help prevent that pervasive problem: neck float.