Double Bass Busted seam help!!!

[Dogbertday]

So Wisconsin is (mostly) on lockdown. And my bass has an open seam between the top and lower treble side.
What can I do to stop the spread or fix this? I have wood glue, but no clamps (can I use weight instead?)
A neoghbor might have clamps. But wexre taking social distancing seriously, hence the current struggle.

At least what can I do the prevent further damage, until I can have a pro look at it?

 

[notabene]

Don't use "wood" glue. Either order some hide glue granules and learn to use it, or, not as good, get some "bottled" hide glue at a hardware. Use many clamps.

 

[Don Hergert]

And, take the tension off your strings now to keep the seam from separating more. You can put the instrument on its back to try to prevent the sound post from falling, although it may fall anyway. But string tension is contributing to the seam separation now, reduce that tension asap to try to stop it from separating more.

It sounds like you'll need to take it to a pro for repair, so if the soundpost falls it's no big loss.

Any idea what brand of double bass it is? That might identify what kind of glue was used on it originally.

 

[unbrokenchain]

not as good, get some "bottled" hide glue at a hardware. Use many clamps.

The bottled hide glue does not work for this purpose, at all. It never truly sets. Granulated hide glue, or wait til you can get some!

You can make clamps out of threaded rod if you have some of that, weight might work if you're really clever.

 

[Greg Clinkingbeard]

Get some bottled hide glue and Irwin quick clamps. The clamps aren’t cheap so you might only buy two or three and work in sections. If you have the time and interest, make some spool clamps out of 1/4”-20 all thread and sections of 2” dowel. Your call.
Although the bottled hide glue isn’t the best it will hold and is completely reversible. When this is over, visit your repair person and have it done right.
If you use any other glue, find a new repair guy.

 

[Greg Clinkingbeard]

Blue masking tape will clamp that seam in a pinch but there could be some damage the the finish. Doubtful, but possible.

 

[KUNGfuSHERIFF]

NO BOTTLED HIDE GLUE. Not only will it liquefy, pop open and make a mess on the first warm humid day, but it contains formaldehyde as a preservative. It's a carcinogen.

If hide glue granules are not available, use Knox unflavored gelatin, food grade.

 

[Don Hergert]

If hide glue granules are not available, use Knox unflavored gelatin, food grade.

KFS, do you remember the concentration for Knox?

 

[KUNGfuSHERIFF]

No. You want it to be almost watery when at temperature. A glue joint at a seam isn't supposed to be especially strong.

 

[210superair]

+1 no bottled hg. I've had to repair my seams a few times. Watch a YouTube vid, play around with it a little first. No biggie.

 

[unbrokenchain]

Just in case you hadn't visited this thread. Not that the repair is similar, but there's a lot of good tips in there on working with HHG.

 

[210superair]

Just in case you hadn't visited this thread. Not that the repair is similar, but there's a lot of good tips in there on working with HHG.

Man, how in the world did I miss that thread...

Well done there UC, nice work!

 

[bengreen]

You may not actually need any glue at all if it opened at the glue line. You can try reactivating the existing glue by wetting it with some 140-ish degrees F water. Brush or thin, blunt knife. You can improvise clamping. Weights can work with a towel under them to protect finish. I was taught that if more than 8 to 10 pounds clamping force required, your parts don't fit right. So it's not much. If you try this, do a dry clamping run first to maker sure it closes and that you have the choreography down to get it done in a minute or two. Good Luck.

 

[Don Hergert]

... If HHG was used originally. We still haven't determined that.

 

[Greg Clinkingbeard]

If this is a Chinese plywood, it’s probably not glued with hide glue. Sure, use Knox gelatin or whatever. Personally, I’d just use the bottled stuff and see it as temporary. Any competent repair person can clean it out and use the hot stuff. Don’t drink it or inject it. You guys are a trip. Lemur used to sell a seam repair kit which contained spool clamps and a bottle of liquid hide glue. Geez.

Out.

 

[unbrokenchain]

Lemur used to sell a seam repair kit which contained spool clamps and a bottle of liquid hide glue.

Maybe I just got a bad bottle, or maybe it's just the "Titebond" brand that really sucks, but it was seriously still tacky to the touch months later on everything I ever used it for.. like trying to glue something with a sugar daddy.. ymmv!

 

[Dogbertday]

Its a Shen sb150. About 13 years old.

Really trying to be responsible with social distancing right now and would like to use the time off (non-essential) to shed, so even a luthier trip isnt really what I want to do.

Gaaaaaahhhhh!!!!!

 

[Greg Clinkingbeard]

I only know of two brands, Franklin and Titebond. Word is Titebond makes the Franklin stuff but that’s not verified. Got to shake it up every so often Because it separates. It’s good for gluing nuts, labels and seams in a pinch.

 

[Don Hergert]

I've never used the bottled hide glue, but I've heard in other forums that it goes bad on the shelf, and that in contrast fresh stuff works reasonably well. I have no idea how to tell how old a bottle on the shelf is though.

 

[bengreen]

Titebond is Franklin. Used to be a code on the bottle to get manufacture date. You could get the key online. Nowadays they just write a date. Their site says storage life (tightly closed) is two years. I buy a new bottle every year but I've used it well past that date and it worked fine.

I carry a repair kit to orchestra: post setter and gauge, light and mirror, half a dozen clamps, spatula and glue. Same as your Lemur/Kolstein kit. Used to be I used Titebond Liquid Hide glue because it was so compact and convenient. Lately I've gone back to dry crystals and a cheap tea pot for the road (leave the pricey glue pot at home). The reason I dropped liquid is that there's no procedure for diluting it. I don't worry about it not being strong enough. I've glued plenty of seams with it that never reopened. Rather, I worry about not being able to make it dilute enough such that I'm sure a luthier can reverse it.

I know it's considered sacrilege and counters everything I've ever been taught about how wimpy the stuff is, but every use I've ever put it to it's been quite strong. I use it routinely for bow tips and underslides. I've found it a lot more resistant to dislodging during filing/sanding than the CA (superglue) that's favored by most bow makers.

My druthers aside, there is a compromise formula made by a furniture restoration specialist in my neck of the woods (San Diego, CA). It's "Old Brown Glue". Just two ingredients: hide glue and urea. Shelf life 18 months. Instructions are to place the bottle under a hot tap (140 - 160 degrees F) until it thins (no nuking!). I've used it. It works. Longer working time than dry but also longer set: 24 - 48 hours to full strength bond. But like the Franklin, no procedure for diluting. If I'm going to go to the trouble of heating, I'd just as soon mix my own.

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