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Cab design ?

To sort of answer the question of "the box" though...albeit only partially since I'm on my phone...

Box size, shape, geometry and other build characteristics all play into a well designed box. These, along with choices in port size, placement and geometry all shape what you hear. All good speaker boxes are build around a specific speaker (based around the speaker's characteristics and specs). Thus all the speaker hounds around here talking specs. The other factor is the designer's goal, or what they are trying to accomplish...not everyone wants to hear the same tonal profile, volume, clarity, etc.
 
I guess the front panel is baffling or separating the waves coming off the front and rear of the cone. The back wave reflects off the back wallband comes back through the cone. That can cause a cancellation at whatever wave length that distance is so it is possible to build the box too shallow or too deep and end up creating something that doesn't work well.

It's said the best ratio for dimensions to minimize cancellations is 1 to .6 to 1.6 but that gets violated all the time for reasons of portability/odd shapes etc. and still sounds good. The lining inside the cab minimizes these cancellations. That's why we call unlined cabs cheap and tell people to spend $10 and put some foam in there. The cab then goes from boomy/muddy to clear.
 
To be technical the raw speaker is called the driver. The driver/box and whatever else all put together becomes the speaker but as long as we can effectively communicate man it's cool.

I used to have a guitar player who kept calling his high E his low string because it was closer to the floor....now that needed correcting. :)
 
Just weird thinking you know somthing and then finding out your way wrong! And now i am off to find a 112 flip top jimmy said ampeg made. Think they will reissue it with all the hype about the new ones?
Not anytime soon. The Heritage B-15 was an extremely limited run of 50. We're usually plugged into the rumor mill pretty well here, and we knew of the Heritage B-15 a year before Ampeg announced it. I've heard no such thing about the SB-12.
 
I was thinking more like just the cab to go with the solid state heads. I dont have the funds to mess with tube gear! I would love to have a pf112 cab with a pf350 head. Maybe a second cab for when its needed. From the specs i see on the pf 115 if there was a 112 it could probly go low to mid 30s in weight. Maybe even be less than 40 lbs as a complete rig! But still get that vintage sound i heard out of that 15!
 
Honestly, I find 112's inadequate for gigging. I tried it for a while, and while you can run way more wattage through the newer ones than the older ones, they're still a single 112. Almost everyone I know who gigs with them either only uses them for personal monitors in tight situations or they end up buying an extension cab. Great for low volume stuff or recording, but don't expect it to get the job done like the PF115.

However, if you really want to try this route, check out Link Removed and www.fliptops.net . Vintage Blue makes absolutely beautiful early 60's Portaflex replica cabs. The Fliptops stuff, while not quite the level of artistry of Mark from Vintage Blue, are well made and solid, plus they will make replicas of the entire range of discontinued Ampeg cabs.
 

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