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Cab DIY Question / Advice

speakheavy

speakheavy

Guest
Oct 17, 2014
50
4
#1
Hello everyone, I play in a ridiculously low tuning and I was wondering what the actual benefits of building my own cab would be. (extremely new to this so I have some questions)

My drivers are holding up perfectly fine, I have a 410 and a 115 using together (the 15 has been upgraded from stock before anyone tells me about how 410s can handle more, yes, I know)

but anyways SINCE my drivers are perfectly okay, would just putting those speakers into a cab I build be a problem? Like just take them from the old cabs and throw them in one I build with the original wiring and everything, I mean I don't see what the issue could be but like I said I'm new to this.

Also, please tell me if this is actually possible, I dont see why it wouldnt be though
what if I put my 4 10's, and 2 15's, all into a cab I built? like a 215/410 cab, ported
Would placing them all together harm the speakers? both cabs (individually) are ported anyways so what would be the actual issue with putting them all together and making a super cab of sorts?

Also if that super cab IS possible, I may consider placing some kind of tweeter/horn driver in there too for added clarity to my tone, but I'm not sure about that yet

goals and specs:

-I love the current set up I have now (410 + 115)
-I would consider this 'super cab' with my current configuration BUT if I build it I would like to add a 15.
-I'm not an 810 fan
-I don't want to build a fEARful
-I want an SPL MACHINE
-My amp (in bridged mono) pushes 1100 watts and I want people in the audience to be able to tell that -thats what they're getting haha
-I don't play small gigs really so basically for volume for me its go big or go home
-As far as wiring things up it seems simple, just putting ports in the back of the cab after wrapping it in carpet or tolex or someting
-ALSO I'd prefer to have circular ports because I already have 2 precision ports (1 in each cab now) that I use and I could just remove and re-install them into the super cab. I feel I'm not experienced enough to build a rectangular port into the cab AND I like precision ports because they're very adjustable (for cab tuning), unlike the long rectangle port

There's nothing really wrong with my setup now sound wise but I feel like if this was done correctly the sound could only get better.

Tuning:
E0
B0
E1
A1

Thanks :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
#3
Your drivers don't work on their own. That is, they are part of a system. If you take them out of the enclosures they're in now, closures where they work well, and put them in new, different cabinets, they may well not work as well as they do now. A speaker cabinet is not just a box to hold the drivers; the cabinet and the drivers are a system designed to work together. Neither is certain to do as well with different stuff.

This is where WISD and other applications come in. Of course, you have to know something about what you're doing, but a knowledgable user can use these tools to design an enclosure to work with a specific driver to achieve certain ends. You have to know what you want: louder? Deeper? Cleaner? What's wrong with the cabs you have now? What aren't they doing for you? What are you trying to gain?

By the way, Greenboy, Duke, Bill FitzMaurice and the other knowledgable designers on this group didn't just wake up one morning and start putting together wonderful systems. They each have decades of experience in understanding how speaker systems work and what makes them work.

Raf
 
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#5
Raf speaks the truth. And I don't even think you'd want your cabs to go that low, unless you plan on hauling LOTS of speakers and amp power with you.

EDIT::: IMO to get that low you'd need a meaty subwoofer and a crossover network combined with all too much power. Moving the speakers into a 'super enclosure' wouldn't enhance your situation.
 
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#6
Raf Seibert said:
By the way, Greenboy, Duke, Bill FitzMaurice and the other knowledgable designers on this group didn't just wake up one morning and start putting together wonderful systems. They each have decades of experience in understanding how speaker systems work and what makes them work.

Raf
Click to expand...

And I am pretty sure none of the builders mentioned would advocate mixing different size full range speakers in the same bandpass.


However, if you are dead set on doing this, you are not supposed to have different speakers sharing the same internal airspace in the cabinet. You would still have to have separate chambers within the cab for the different speakers. Not much point in making it into one big "supercab".
 
#7
A few logistical things you need to consider. How do you plan to move it? If you have a big enough vehicle and can handle moving a couple hundred pounds around, go ahead. It better be built like a tank or it will fall to pieces the first time you try move it though.

What you propose probably won't be much louder, if I had to guess it will actually probably be lower SPL. Unless your woodworking skills are as good as the company that built your original cabs, it won't be as loud and won't sound as good. Bracing and joinery quality is what you are paying extra for in high end cabs. It is why they sound better, get louder, and last longer. The speakers are a small part of the equation. Woodworking skill is part of it, then there is the audio engineering part which is a whole separate animal.

As a general rule, you probably won't save any money building something for yourself. You'll learn stuff but it won't be a money or time saver.
 
#9
speakheavy said:
...SINCE my drivers are perfectly okay, would just putting those speakers into a cab... ...Like just take them from the old cabs and throw them in one I build with the original wiring and everything,...

...what if I put my 4 10's, and 2 15's, all into a cab I built? like a 215/410 cab, ported... ...I would consider this 'super cab' with my current configuration BUT if I build it I would like to add a 15...
...don't want to build a fEARful... ...want an SPL MACHINE...
Click to expand...

Why do speaker count, cabinet size, and shape matter so much to you? Are you listening with your eyes? Assuming that all the advantages of modular systems are apparent to you but hold no appeal, why not just sell your current gear and get something that is certain to be louder and go lower?

Your drivers are OK? Hmmm..... A DIY chambered "super cab" with conventional drivers, such as one with 410s and 215s that you propose might perform as well as the current rig you have, though it is not likely to. You are imprisoned by the drivers themselves. Your dismissal of Greenboy designs betrays your disinterest in anything but cabinet size.

If you want really loud bass, get a pro level PA. If you want to go much lower than such a PA system, call Bill Fitzmaurice.
 
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#10
Raf Seibert said:
Your drivers don't work on their own. That is, they are part of a system. If you take them out of the enclosures they're in now, enclosures where they work well, and put them in new, different cabinets, they may well not work as well as they do now. A speaker cabinet is not just a box to hold the drivers; the cabinet and the drivers are a system designed to work together. Neither is certain to do as well with different stuff.
Click to expand...

What he said.

You may well trade off excursion-limited power handling in exchange for the bigger bottom end that a well-designed bigger box would give you, and end up with essentially no net gain at the end of the day.

If you want to build an uber-cab, you have to start out with suitable drivers. And in general the more capable a woofer is at the lower end of the spectrum, the less capable it is at the upper end. That's why you see Greenboy using a midrange with the 3015LF.

Raf Seibert said:
By the way, Greenboy, Duke, Bill FitzMaurice and the other knowledgable designers on this group didn't just wake up one morning and start putting together wonderful systems. They each have decades of experience in understanding how speaker systems work and what makes them work.
Click to expand...

I can't speak for Greenboy or Bill, but my first 2.5 decades were spent building cabs that sucked. Fortunately I was an (unduly enthusiastic) amateur, or I'd have starved.
 
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#13
speakheavy said:
Hello everyone, I play in a ridiculously low tuning and I was wondering what the actual benefits of building my own cab would be.
Click to expand...

On designing one? None. Leave cab design to the pros.

If you want to get into cab design, sure, why not. But it will be a journey just like any other endeavor. Lots of research & education, lots of prototypes, and lots of time and money involved. And no guarantee that you will come up with something better than what is already available.

If you just want a cab sooner rather than later, and if you're handy, engineered and proven designs are available as plans from people like Greenboy and BFM. But it won't be cheap as the braced and robust cabinet construction is more than just a box made of whatever, and those guys spec top shelf components for a reason.

Or just buy a new or used cab that delivers your sound goals. Chances are, you will find what you want here on the TB classifieds! :thumbsup:

Remember, there are cabs, and there are CABS.
 
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#14
Your drivers are not going to be any louder than they are now in a direct radiator cab.

You may be able to get a deeper low end, but, as Duke said, at the cost of decreased excursion limited power handling.

1.1 kW is not a lot of power to accomplish what you are trying to do.

Your goals would be very challenging for an experienced cab designer/builder. Your chances of succeeding with this on your first build are not good.

There are existing solutions, but none of them are inexpensive.

Your best bet is to commit to a whole new set of cabs/drivers.

The new cabs should be the product of years of experience, and of proven performance. You should reconsider the Greenboy designs, along with BFM (excellent horn loaded designs), the MVW cabs at MAS, or a stack of Dukes Hathor 1855's, just to name a few.
 
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#17
you love your cabs ... so leave them as is and ad to them ..!!??!!

I'd ad a powered sub of some kind ... 1,000 watt 15" or 18" ... just for frequencies below 60/80 hz ... it would free up power in your main amp and stop the over excursion of your other speakers ... which work fine know ..! it should make things louder and actually cleaner ..?! just like adding a sub helps wonders with a small PA system ....!?
 
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#20
If you are willing to build an transport such a super cab. Forget about it.

Get the two 15's (or better yet 2 other 15's that are selected for the specific job). Make yourself either one or two massive folded horn subwoofers. (Size actually does matter). Use your current power amp and run each side (not bridged) into each of these speakers.

Stick your 4 by 10 cabinet on top. Get a (maybe smaller) power amp to run it. Run a crossover and send the lows to the subwoofer. Possibly run a bit of dirt into the top box (with clean lows).
 

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