I thought of another hope, I'm an old man with memory issues

and I couldn't remember if when I tried the fast motor, was I looking at the big pulley that's easy to if it's spinning or, not or, did I look at the small pulley on the motor. Maybe it was spinning but, not making the belt move and the other pulley. The belt adjustment is out as far as it can go, maybe it needs an new belt but, it worked in the organ. I got rid of the connector, was going to eventually so, why not eliminate it now. Plugged it in, still nothing other than a quite hum. There's some maintenance info on a label inside the enclosure. Won't work if belt is too tight. But it worked in the organ. I loosened the wing nut and it moved slightly without me moving it. Plugged it in. I now have two speeds. Only thing I can think of is, I have enclosure in two block of wood, (speaker connector is on the bottom) instead of hanging from a shelf in the organ. Again, Thank you Thank you Thank you.
Okay, two important points: the motor coupling is done between the shaft of the small (slow) motor and the pulley of the large motor, which has an o-ring that must be in good condition (I recommend a new one). This is adjusted by changing the angle of the small motor shaft; it's easy. There can't be any lubricant in this coupling, obviously.
If these parts you are using are missing the original Leslie driver, the switching may cause noise in the audio; if this is the case, use solid-state relays.
The SSR functions simply as an "electronic switch".
Unlike a mechanical switch, which generates a spark (electric arc) when opening/closing — causing that "pop" in the speakers — the "Zero-Cross SSR" only turns on or off when the mains wave passes through the 0V point. This almost completely eliminates electromagnetic interference (EMI).
Simplified Wiring Diagram
Here's how you should set it up to switch between Motor A and Motor B:
1. Common (Neutral): Connect the "Neutral" wire from your 120V mains directly to one of the wires of each motor.
2. Live (Hot): Connect the "Live" wire from the mains to the L1 output terminals (or pin 1) of both SSRs.
3. Output to the Motors: Connect the output pin of SSR 1 to the remaining wire of Motor 1.
Connect the output pin of SSR 2 to the remaining wire of Motor 2.
4. Control Circuit (9V DC):
The negative (-) terminal of the 9V battery/source goes to pin 4 (-) of both SSRs.
The positive (+) terminal goes through a selector switch (SPDT type) that directs the 9V to pin 3 (+) of SSR 1 "OR" to pin 3 (+) of SSR 2.
Recommended Components
SSR: AC-DC type (Ex: Fotek SSR-25DA) 3 ~ 32 VDC. Ensure it is Zero-Cross.
Selector Switch: A simple 3-pin switch (On-Off-On) to toggle the 9V (or any 3 ~ 32 VDC) signal.
Protection: A 5A fuse at the 120V phase input is always recommended.
*The original Leslie controller has a brake circuit to brake the rotors faster. This feature is lost with this connection; in any case, I didn't notice any difference. I used the same setup with my larger Leslie speakers that I converted to passive and used with better external amplifiers, allowing me to use modern audio processors.