Double Bass Cabinet recommendations for AI Claris amp

[Ketbass]

I don’t use the AI cabinet from my Coda series anymore due to unfindable buzzing. But because it slips out the back I can just use the head. I’m currently running the head through a Genz-Benz 1-12 neo and it sounds great. I think the cabinet comes in around 27lbs so not to much to haul and has an adjustable tweeter and side porting. I think it ran me used $350.00 shipped from Reverb

 

[logdrum]

I do have the DoubleShot and works well, but they are inefficient so depends how loud

Bergantino reference 12 would be the current production cabinet, I'd recommend

 

[Keithunem]

Actually, JBarz recommended the Barefaced mini T which I have heard from several sources as having a very flat, transparent sound. Someone else recommended the Barefaced Two10 cab. I have 3 of those and have been using only one cab for coffee house/acoustic type gigs. While it’s a great option for electric bass, it’s a very colored cab for URB. As I mentioned earlier, I’ve got some RS110 cabs being made by David Luke at RevSound, but I must mention that I’m flying blind as I’ve never actually heard them. What sold me on the idea is reading many, many reviews from other players, both electric and Upright. Only downside is an 8-10 week wait (there’s a waiting list for a reason). Barefaced is another company that has a similar wait…however, with both companies you get to talk with the guy who’s building your cab, plus RevSound is made in the U.S. so no tariff fees, import fees, etc…plus, with RevSound you can talk to David (owner/builder) and chose impedance, speaker size, etc and many tolex choices to boot, and he has worked with many reputable URB players as well. Good luck…

 

[LEUllman]

Lately I have been using my Clarus with a Revsound RS28 for bluegrass and Country gigs. Perfect simple 20-pound grab ‘n go rig. I also have a RS210 that I’ve been using for years, even though the 30 lb cab was sometimes overkill in small venues. (I now reserve the 210 for outdoor venues or situations where there’s no PA support, and drive it with a RedEye preamp and more powerful head.) I hope my AI Clarus lasts forever, because I have yet to see anything as well suited for this application.

 

[Sean Riddle]

I just got a Phil Jones 2x7 and quite like it with my Clarus SL-2 head on it. The sound is very clear and transparent, which works well with the Clarus. I’ve only tried it out in bar/coffeehouse gigs but it provides plenty of sound for that.

 

[Matt Power]

Thing is you can probably get a replacement speaker through Eminence who I believe provided speakers for the company.
Alternatively, GR Bass makes a very nice Carbon Fiber 1x10 they are pricey.

I have one of the GR Bass AT110 cabinets, and Ric is right. 800 for a 110, but a 10 pound cabinet is worth the price of admission alone, but is a very even, clear and neutral cab, IMO.

 

[Bass68]

Sorry I’ve been missing from my own thread! When I asked about the Raezer’s Edge, I was slightly misinformed. From emailing Geoff, I now understand that the Stealth cabinet (used by some jazz guitarists) is different from their Bass 10, which is 300 watts and sells for $375. I am curious if anyone has tried it?

 

[Bass68]

Another slightly naive question, but could I just replace the distorting speaker in my Genz-Benz cab with something more powerful? Bad idea?

 

[Wasnex]

Another slightly naive question, but could I just replace the distorting speaker in my Genz-Benz cab with something more powerful? Bad idea?

While it's theoretically possible, it's a long shot. It takes more than swapping in a driver with a higher power RMS rating. You need a driver that is compatible with cabs internal volume and porting...basically the cab and driver work as a system and must be engineered to work together.


As I mentioned previously, @agedhorse may be able to recone or replace the driver so the cab performs as it originally did. If you like the cab, that could be an attractive option, but IMHO you still should get something that is capable of satisfying your needs in louder settings.

 

[Bass68]

While it's theoretically possible, it's a long shot. It takes more than swapping in a driver with a higher power RMS rating. You need a driver that is compatible with cabs internal volume and porting...basically the cab and driver work as a system and must be engineered to work together.


As I mentioned previously, @agedhorse may be able to recone or replace the driver so the cab performs as it originally did. If you like the cab, that could be an attractive option, but IMHO you still should get something that is capable of satisfying your needs in louder settings.

Yep that’s what I thought. Thanks!

 

[agedhorse]

Another slightly naive question, but could I just replace the distorting speaker in my Genz-Benz cab with something more powerful? Bad idea?

Are you sure it’s the speaker and not something else? They are pretty robust drivers. I would want to be 100% sure before replacing the driver.

I no longer have recone parts for the original 112 (GNX-12300-8) but I still have the newer GNX-12350 replacement drivers in stock.

These two drivers are the best for your cabinet.

 

[Wasnex]

I no longer have recone parts for the original 112 (GNX-12300-8) but I still have the newer GNX-12350 replacement drivers in stock.

?

AFAIK his cab is the STL-10T.

 

[DoubleMIDI]

I had a distorting/rattling STL-10T after a bike trailer transport with DB and amp. Never a problem before.

It happened a day before a gig at the final rehearsal, so I only had a few hours to find out what happened and to repair it.
I took the amp back home, opened the cab (removed grill and unscrewed driver) and found out that the cable with the tweeter decoupling capacitor touched the driver. The problem went away when the driver was lifted out of the cab.

I folded the cable and bound it together to keep it off the driver and put some foam around too, remounted the driver and the grill, played something really loud (my neighbors were probably not amused) and the gig went well.
Never had the problem again after this „repair“.
When you have the driver out it might be a chance to install a tweet-off-switch by interrupting the cable. I didn’t had the time when the problem happened to me but considered it to do this later.

Maybe check that first before considering a new driver. Specially if it happened suddenly and not gradually.

 

[Endlesssolo]

I went through a few small cabinets before I decided to make some, and that’s worked out great. I’m not bad with woodworking, and I have some decent tools. I’ll attach a photo of two of the cabs. They both use an eminence basslite 10” speaker, 1/2” plywood. They’re tuned; the larger one is roughly 16” by 16” by 14.5” and is more-or-less tuned to low F, and the smaller one on top is roughly a 14.5” cube. The ports are 1” tall and the port shelf extends 8.5” back. (I think) The smaller one is tuned to around Bb. That’s the one I use for 95% of my gigs. Oddly enough, at least on my bass, the E string gets pretty boomy without some roll off on the bigger cabinet, while I run the smaller run basically flat. The open A and E strings tend to be more resonant notes on most basses than the Bb and F, that’s why they’re sized to roll off just above the pitch for the open strings.

The flite sound cabinets they replaced are quite a bit smaller and wow do these homemade cabs sound better down low. I think the larger one could be a great option for electric bass or for an upright that needs help on the E string.

I’m not suggesting that you build your own (unless that appeals to you) but I would be careful of cabinets that are simply too small to efficiently produce the lowest notes on the bass.

One edit: Of course what you want out a cabinet is totally dependent on the kind of music you play and how loud you need to be. I play jazz in small group settings and I almost never need to be loud.

 

[Bass68]

Yeah, I’m not one build my own cabinet unfortunately. I do appreciate all the input! Maybe I can just get it repaired.