Once again, you can't use the Bluetooth for the input of your instrument because of the inherent latency. It will work for a music input to play along with, but the time lag is just too long to be usable as 'wireless' input for your bass.
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Campfire setup. . . ?
- Thread starter el murdoque
- Start date
I cannot confirm or object right now, but in a week or two a Bluetooth audio transmitter I've ordered from Aliexpress will arrive, and I'll check the latency.
Copy that. Do report back on how it goes. My experience has been that the best one can hope for with a Bluetooth link is about 60 - 100 mSecs. -- much too long a lag between the time you strike a note and when it starts to sound. I'll have to admit, I haven't been able to play with the various aptX codecs, which are supposed to have very low latency.
That sounds like an interesting thing to look at. I'd pair it with a U-Bass instead of a full instrument and my guess is that their preamp will actually be hot enough for an AUX input.
I know that Sennheiser has managed to push the Bluetooth latency to a region where it is actually usable.
But I doubt that a unit from aliexpress will keep up with that. It'll be an interesting thing, though.
I had not thought about BT speakers. I actually own a Bose Soundlink Mini Mk1 with a 1/8" aux input. I might try that.
I don't know it for a fact, but I'm told that Sennheiser is going all in on Bluetooth for IEM use, so they must be able to make it work.
Some of the Bluetooth speakers have mic and instrument inputs and enough power for you needs. These are overkill for your needs, but would work for PA or busking.
https://www.soundboks.com/
Yet another - If you do drive up camping, I just looked and I actually have Aux input jack down by one of the Car's USB jacks. The car also has bluetooth for backing music.
Or you could use one of those little FM transmitter to broadcast to your car's radio on an empty frequency.
And of Amazon and others sell church parking lot FM transmitters some as high as 7w. Which have questionable legality but I doubt the Rangers care.
Or you could use one of those little FM transmitter to broadcast to your car's radio on an empty frequency.
And of Amazon and others sell church parking lot FM transmitters some as high as 7w. Which have questionable legality but I doubt the Rangers care.
The stereo in my truck only needs about 5 minutes at medium volume to draw the battery down to a level where the truck will not start. If I want to listen to tunes, the motor stays on and the garage door stays open.
Here are the amp's specs:
4x75W at 2 ohms
1x400W at 2 ohms (Class D)
4GA wiring and 90A fuse are recommended.
Germany is a small country and ...... let's just say I know a guy.
And let's further assume that it may or may not be that this guy has or has not brought something with him and told me or did not tell me to try it out (or not).
And it may or may not be that this stuff really worked, as long as you do not use more than one of them in your signal chain (Latency will stack).
Sorry that I was or was not very specific, but I did or did not promise to keep my mouth shut about specifics.
Here's a stupid question, because I never get that right:
TRS vs TS.
When I want to connect a mono source to a stereo input, what cable do I have to use?
TRS vs TS.
When I want to connect a mono source to a stereo input, what cable do I have to use?
I've been thinking of a simplest wiring possible, i.e.:
1/4 T -> 1/8 T and 1/8 R
1/4 S -> 1/8 S
But now I'm not so sure. Maybe some resistors should be inserted into the signal path to prevent short cirquit between left and right input channels. Also there's a question of ground loop.
My knowledge in this area is very basic. Maybe someone who knows more will step in?
1/4 T -> 1/8 T and 1/8 R
1/4 S -> 1/8 S
But now I'm not so sure. Maybe some resistors should be inserted into the signal path to prevent short cirquit between left and right input channels. Also there's a question of ground loop.
My knowledge in this area is very basic. Maybe someone who knows more will step in?
You need a Mono adapter the splits the signal from TS mono to dual mono TRS. Probably something custom you make yourself.
If you insert a TS plug into a TRS stereo input you will only get signal in one side. The S part of the TS plug will short the R and S contacts of the TRS jack to ground.
If go from stereo TRS to mono TR I believe some resistors are used to isolate the outputs from one another. This is called a summing cable.
Yeah, your former picture is what I've been thinking first.
The latter picture (a summing cable) IMHO shows how to go from stereo output to mono input. But here the situation is reverse, i.e. from mono output to stereo input. I think the summing cable still will be working, but maybe, just maybe, the resistors could be omitted in order to avoid signal attenuation and simplify the soldering. I'm not sure.
That's not a bad idea. I have an old Zoom 505 multieffect pedal which runs on battery and have a stereo output. Could be used on a clean settings as a preamp and mono->stereo splitter as well.
For my personal taste, I'd want the whole thing as small and tidy as possible.
That Setup is purely meant as a test bench thing.
Something like a bass ukulele one cable and one small box that makes it louder.
You pull it from the trunk, tune it up and go, that's the Idea.
Cannot agree more. Afaik bass ukuleles mostly are active, i.e. the preamp question is moot, so the only thing still not 100% clear is cable.
