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Can any healthy neck get good?

Assuming a neck in good condition, with properly installed frets, a working trussrod, and a fully adjustable bridge, any competent Luthier should be able to do a decent setup. It's a sequence of adjustments that all have to be done correctly. I haven't found a better set of videos on the process than this 4-part series, but there are literally thousands on YT. Fret dressing itself is another rabbit hole, as you may have already found out, but most modern CNC made basses have at least decent quality fretwork right out of the box. I'm an entirely self-taught amateur builder, mostly via YT videos and advice from Luthier's Corner here on TB, and I'm able to get a what I consider a good setup, though I'm sure a Pro could tweak it to make better.
 
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Not twisted / Not warped - Absolutely

"not warped - beyond repair" is another scenario;

You've correctly distinguished twists and warps as 2 separate defects.
"warped" (to me) means excessive relief or insufficient relief, that can not be corrected with the truss rod.

Warped "not beyond repair" means correctable through various methods;
Leveling frets to compensate in mild cases, or possibly planing the fingerboard in others.
Heat-treatment can be very effective as well, and to me, often a preferred 1st method. (successful on 3 necks of mine)
 
This is seeming a bit circular—unless a neck has a problem that prevents a good setup, it can get a good setup.

I think there’s some necks that have badly placed truss rods, and after a while might (might!) develop a ski ramp or humped area. Of course frets can be pulled and the board sanded flat, but at what cost? I have an eBay wenge neck that has a bit of ski ramp. I paid $70 for it. It’d be cheaper to get another than to have a luthier fix it. The decision might go the other way for something more valuable/rare.
 
Yes. However you don't need to be a skilled luthier.
Watch more YouTube videos.
Even mere mortals can do a setup.
I would only seek a luthier if you need major fret work.
 
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Isn't there potentially more involved than just a setup to make a neck that "plays great"?
Some instruments have more exceptional necks than others
I know Mike Lull guitars for instance have some specialized luthiers doing something to their necks
not just plek machine, but something to improve the over all feel of the neck.
Sanding to a special profile or to higher grit, or something.
 
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An unhealthy neck can “get good”, and it doesn’t need a luthier. It just needs some common sense, and someone willing to learn a bit. (Within limits of course.)

I did it with a Squier CV Jazz. Otherwise great condition, but the neck was significantly warped and the trussrod nut was as cranked as possible. And it had fret sprout. So I got it for a fantastic price, more than low enough to justify purchasing a replacement neck.

But I went to work. Asked a few questions around here, did some other research. The steps I took:

A. Dig out the trussrod nut.
B. Create a ‘spacer’ to allow the threads more length to engage.

Doing that made the instrument playable. Not great, but not bad. The strings needed to be loosened after every playing session to keep the neck playable over time.

Next:
C. Heat-treated the neck. Not severe treatment, gentle. Some explanation is in order here. I reasoned that it’s possible this shipment, back when it was new, might have sat for too long in a shipping container under the heat of the sun or something. So I might as well try to reverse that! I have forced air heating, with one duct in my studio that blows nice hot air. I suspended the bass below that, with the body and headstock a couple inches above the floor. I put a wet Bona floor cleaning pad lengthwise under the neck, and put two 8-pound dumbbells on the most warped area of the neck.

I let that sit there for a week, during the coldest part of the winter when the heating system was on quite frequently. It had significant positive impact.

Today, I still loosen the strings when I’m done playing it. But it can go a couple days without that, and the action is now as good as I could imagine. It plays beautifully. Which brings me to the final treatment:

D. A fret filing block to correct the fret sprout. Yes, a mere mortal can do that job. You just need to be patient. The block does the major removal of edges, then you remove the file from the block and use the file to treat each fret end as suits you.
 
I'll chime in with a slightly different take. Yes, I'd agree that any serviceable neck can be setup to play well. But that doesn't mean it will feel the same as another neck. This is not saying 'cheap basses suck' or anything like that, but IME/IMO, part of the difference between low- and high-end instruments is that somewhat unexplainable 'feel' aspect, the 'this thing feels like it was carved from a single piece of awesome' vs, well, not that solid feeling. Yes, I know, this is not 100% based on cost of the bass or neck, so I'll just say higher quality vs lower quality, knowing that the ratio of quality / price has greatly increased in the last 10 years.

My recent example: A few years ago a friend got a $200 bass for their daughter. I took it to my luthier to give it a setup. It came back and played great - no buzzes, low action, played surprisingly (at least to me) well, I could have easily gigged with it. But it in no way felt as good/solid as my USA G&Ls, or my MIK Reverend. YMMV, this is IME/IMO, etc.
 
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To add to what Cleezmo said, it depends on your threshold in the definition of Good. Yes, any neck that isn't badly warped or twisted can have its fretwork trued up and be set up to play acceptably. But there are many other details in the design and construction of a bass neck that can make it feel and sound better than the baseline of "Good".

That's what we Luthiers do. We add those features into the new necks that we build.

An inexpensive, mass-manufactured neck can be tuned up to make it play fairly well. But there's only so much we can do. Without getting into building a whole new neck.
 
When I used to tour, I'd play a ton of basses from EBMMs to parts basses and even some SERIOUSLY budget minded stuff and our tech made them all feel pretty close to one another. Some needed a lot of work to get there, tho. I had a $100 Wasburn XB-100 bass I slapped a ton of stickers on and was adamant about playing live and it had it's edges rolled, frets replaced, back sanded, etc etc etc. basically a completely different neck from how it was shipped, but it felt great.

I will say that sticker bass needed a lot of maintenance to keep it playing nice - way more than any other bass in the stable. The neck was really prone to curving one way or another seemingly dependant on what part of the country we were in.

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Something I really love about this bass is that we pulled the EMG preamp that lived in it for a few years and ended up hardwiring the pickups right to the jack. The pickups are SD "Hot" P Bass pickups, and having those hardwired right to the jack is insane. I can push the Demeter VTBP in my rack into real sweet breakup with this thing, which is a hell of an accomplishment.

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But there are many other details in the design and construction of a bass neck that can make it feel and sound better than the baseline of "Good".... That's what we Luthiers do. We add those features into the new necks that we build.
I'd love to see you elaborate on those features...
Or, knowing you, link to an existing detailed thread where you already carefully explain them.
 
I'd love to see you elaborate on those features...
Or, knowing you, link to an existing detailed thread where you already carefully explain them.

Well, I've been writing about all that stuff here on TalkBass for many years. Mostly in Luthier's Corner. All the different things you can do to build better bass necks. Many factors and many different approaches.
 
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