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Carvin B1500 review

No, too much power blows speakers, either from over-excursion or from exceeding the thermal rating. Clipping (i.e. distortion) at low power levels does no harm. Clipping at high power levels will cause more power to be delivered to the speaker. Clipping a 100W amp into a 400W speaker system is unlikely to cause damage.

Can this myth die already?

Asad

Thank you!!!!!
 
I didn't think a well designed shelving control impacts any frequencies above the shelving point either, but I might be wrong.

Well, your qualifier may change things, but I was under the impression that most bass shelving controls out there did impact at least some of the frequencies above their center point, at least to a certain extent.

I, too, may be wrong on this, and I'll tack that 'not an engineer' disclaimer onto any of my comments on this topic. :D

Tom.
 
Well, your qualifier may change things, but I was under the impression that most bass shelving controls out there did impact at least some of the frequencies above their center point, at least to a certain extent.

I, too, may be wrong on this, and I'll tack that 'not an engineer' disclaimer onto any of my comments on this topic. :D

Tom.


Yeah, not sure. I also think it depends on how the various companies describe the actual 'shelving point'. It they use that +/-3db turnover point, the 'stop point' were the slope flattens, or the actual start point of the cut/boost.

I guess the main point is that with a shelving bass control set as low as the B1500, it emulates a hi pass filter in use pretty well... gets rid (or adds) the deepest boom without impacting much of the upper bass, lower mid response. Pretty cool!
 
I guess the main point is that with a shelving bass control set as low as the B1500, it emulates a hi pass filter in use pretty well... gets rid (or adds) the deepest boom without impacting much of the upper bass, lower mid response. Pretty cool!


This is one of the aspects about the B1500 that I love. With a twist of the low knob, big deep bass happens without muddying things up, such as with the majority of other bass amps I have used over the years.

In my experience, warm, deep - great bass tone is very easy to obtain from the B1500 with it's simple controls.

Thanks Carvin!
 
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The other thing is that 1250w is PEAK power not continuous.

I don't mean to split hairs, but I believe that power rating @ 4 ohms is actually 1250 watts RMS (continuous) - not peak power. Still, there's no reason not to use it with a 4-ohm cab rated at 600 watts - if you're careful.

Speaker cabs can generally handle double what they are rated for... as long as the eq is not setup wonky.

Agreed...

MM
 
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Quick question for the experts (or anyone that knows more than me about these things). I am interested in one of these, but the only cabinet I plan on using for now is my Ampeg 6-10 (600 watts, 4 ohms). Would this head completely destroy the cabinet or is there a way to run it like a two channel amp?
Would I be better off with the B1200 that only pushed 450 watts (per channel) into 4 ohms?
Thanks,
Darren

I have that exact set up(among others) and it is one of my best rigs! I have played it outside at large affairs(250-350 people with large stages) and I like the sound as much as my Ampeg svt! I also use it in good sized bars and clubs. It always sounds great. like most good speakers it loves power. My 610 HLF is the one piece of gear I've held onto the longest.
 
I love the simplicity, power and tone from my B1500. Everything I want and nothing I don't need in a bass amp.
"Everything I want and nothing I don't need" is exactly why I ordered mine.
Four years later, I'm still in love with the brutal power and great tone.

So, I guess I just need to be very careful and/or buy a second 4 ohm cabinet to go with it!
With PA amps and speakers, it's generally considered just fine to run 1.5 to 2 times, or even 2.5 times as much power as what the speakers are rated for. As long as you're not pushing the amps to clipping, a good speker system (as your ampeg is a good speaker system) can handle it. There's no reason a bass amp and bass cabs won't comply to the same general rules of thumb. I'm not going to get into exactly what causes blown speakers on this forum. There are people here who know much more about it than I. But headroom is a good thing. Playing real music, rather than test tones, your amp is rarely going to be putting out anywhere near it's maximum wattage, and then only for very short peaks. This amp has enough juice that even on the louder peaks of your playing, it's not likely to distort.
Bottom line, running a 1250 watt amp into a speaker rated at 600 watts is just fine unless you're pushing the amp really hard. And long before you push this amp that hard, Bundy is going to tell you to turn it down because he can't hear his guitar. :p

Yeah, not sure. I also think it depends on how the various companies describe the actual 'shelving point'. It they use that +/-3db turnover point, the 'stop point' were the slope flattens, or the actual start point of the cut/boost.
I believe that 50Hz is either where it starts boosting/cutting or it's the 3dB down/up point and that 30Hz is where it flattens out.
I used to work for Carvin, mostly taking tech support type calls. I knew most of this stuff then. But it's been a couple years and I've forgotten some of it. :o
And I think the 50Hz/30Hz explaination agrees with something I read here on talkbass either in your Boutique Snob tries the Carvin B1500 thread or else in SMASH's B1500 review (both of which, BTW, I think should be required reading).
 
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