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Carvin B1500 review

Well I'm loving this thing so far. Scored one for ~400 bucks used.

I'm wanted to get rid of my rack but retain its power....this thing seems to be just the ticket. Tried it at practice tonight.

Its got serious balls. The drive control works really well....its takes all my Spectors EMGs can give (which are very hot) and gives a really nice growl/crunch that cleans up extremely well.

This is not cheapie 'stuck on' tone suck fizzle like from a crappy overdrive pedal. I was not expecting such a use-able grind from the preamp. If my sansamp or muffn crapped out, then theres enough dirt to work with. At the moment I have a bit of brown-color from the BDDI, some tube dirt from the muffn and finally some solid state dirt from the B1500. Works very well.

EQ is smooth and musical and at very useful frequencies.

Its very loud - this is not a '1800watts for 2 miliseconds' type rating - its definitely up with the yorkville power amp its replacing. It can run at 2ohms and the 4 1/4 inch and 2 speakon connectors give some idea of the intended use of this thing...moving a lot of air!

With no high pass speaker protection the drivers really get thrown around. It survived my 'earthquake' pitchshifter test without overheating. Have not done a full performance/stress test though.

It was starting to be shaken off my carvin 1523 cab. Plenty of low end.

At 35 lbs its reasonably light considering its performance.

Fan is noisy.

I'm actually really relieved to be going back to a simple bass head... having to baby what is in effect an entire PA system on stage was just getting a bit silly. Some clipping or noise issue in the signal chain could result in concerned looks from band members while I fiddle in a rats nest of patch cables with a flashlight mumbling:

"the quantum bi-phase integrator is probably just clipping, I'll set the trans-neutrino fuzz inductor to 3 microwatts and that should do the trick. Or maybe not. Perhaps its the orgone transduction coil. Errrr....."


I'm hitting the 'down size' phase it seems. Except for speakers...I think you always need more of them :-) :-)

I'm not sure how it would stack up in my own personnal preference to other flagship highpower bass amps. The peavey pro 2000 looks like a very nice unit. The genz benz one has too many knobs IMO :-) but I'm sure sounds great. Then theres traynor ampeg etc... be really curious to see how these all grind up with their tubes.

We'll see how long the honeymoon period lasts - but its such a well designed straightforward great sounding unit I can't see big issues unless it starts crapping out or otherwise misbehaving.
 
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With no high pass speaker protection the drivers really get thrown around. It survived my 'earthquake' pitchshifter test without overheating. Have not done a full performance/stress test though.

I've been playing through a B1500 for a few years and your comments echo my experience. Welcome to the club!

I'm not sure I understand your comment, above: the "sub-bass" control, centered at 30 Hz, is a very effective shelving-type high-pass filter; roll it back, and it cuts frequencies below 30 Hz.
 
I've had mine for a couple of weeks now, and I can't believe how great it sounds. Like you said, serious balls and plenty of headroom. I run mine through an Avatar 2x12 and Musicman HD-212 (at 4 ohms total). I play in a really loud band, and I'm finding that they are no match for me now. :smug:

Lyle
 
Quick question for the experts (or anyone that knows more than me about these things). I am interested in one of these, but the only cabinet I plan on using for now is my Ampeg 6-10 (600 watts, 4 ohms). Would this head completely destroy the cabinet or is there a way to run it like a two channel amp?
Would I be better off with the B1200 that only pushed 450 watts (per channel) into 4 ohms?
Thanks,
Darren
 
Quick question for the experts (or anyone that knows more than me about these things). I am interested in one of these, but the only cabinet I plan on using for now is my Ampeg 6-10 (600 watts, 4 ohms). Would this head completely destroy the cabinet or is there a way to run it like a two channel amp?
Would I be better off with the B1200 that only pushed 450 watts (per channel) into 4 ohms?
Thanks,
Darren


Judicious use of the master volume knob is all that is needed to tame the B1500.
 
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Hadn't tried that - and didn't know it was shelving.

I was just referring to some power amps having hipass filters set to 30 or 40hz - I think you understood correctly.

I've been playing through a B1500 for a few years and your comments echo my experience. Welcome to the club!

I'm not sure I understand your comment, above: the "sub-bass" control, centered at 30 Hz, is a very effective shelving-type high-pass filter; roll it back, and it cuts frequencies below 30 Hz.
 
I think you will be fine - just keep the volume down as has already been suggested. Having that sort of headroom is nice.

Quick question for the experts (or anyone that knows more than me about these things). I am interested in one of these, but the only cabinet I plan on using for now is my Ampeg 6-10 (600 watts, 4 ohms). Would this head completely destroy the cabinet or is there a way to run it like a two channel amp?
Would I be better off with the B1200 that only pushed 450 watts (per channel) into 4 ohms?
Thanks,
Darren
 
I've been playing through a B1500 for a few years and your comments echo my experience. Welcome to the club!

I'm not sure I understand your comment, above: the "sub-bass" control, centered at 30 Hz, is a very effective shelving-type high-pass filter; roll it back, and it cuts frequencies below 30 Hz.

+1.. the deep bass shelving control kind of mimic's a high pass filter when it is cut. From my understanding, the difference is the 'slope' of the cut. A hi pass filter does a virtual complete elimination of frequencies below the 'cutoff point' whereas a shelving control gently rolls back the frequencies starting at the shelving point. I believe this is similar in concept to the 'order' level of crossovers, where the high pass filter acts more like a 3rd or 4th order crossover, dropping frequencies below the set point 'like a rock', whereas the shelving control more mimics a 1st order crossover, gently reducing the frequencies below the shelving point and eventually reaching its extreme cut point. Of course, the other difference is that a shelving control can also boost, which can quickly get you into trouble!

This is my layman's understanding of this anyway.


That being said, the great combination of a shelving bass control set very low along with a low mid control really allows you to sculpt the bass response with this head... from mega boom and rumble to tight burp... nice!
 
Yes, it seems very well designed.

A second input would be nice because sometimes I run other stuff through my amp, or maybe a keyboard player needs to be amped at practice. Patching via a decent ABY box in the effects loop may work though.

Just about everything in my setup is getting replaced with high quality, durable and simple pieces of equipment. Getting a cheap ass pedal board was a mistake for instance. Upgrading to a Spector euro bass was a revelation.



I love the simplicity, power and tone from my B1500. Everything I want and nothing I don't need in a bass amp.

Congrats on your purchase!
 
+1.. the deep bass shelving control kind of mimic's a high pass filter when it is cut. From my understanding, the difference is the 'slope' of the cut. A hi pass filter does a virtual complete elimination of frequencies below the 'cutoff point' whereas a shelving control gently rolls back the frequencies starting at the shelving point.

More importantly, I think, the high pass filter does not affect frequencies above its set frequency.
 
Quick question for the experts (or anyone that knows more than me about these things). I am interested in one of these, but the only cabinet I plan on using for now is my Ampeg 6-10 (600 watts, 4 ohms). Would this head completely destroy the cabinet or is there a way to run it like a two channel amp?
Would I be better off with the B1200 that only pushed 450 watts (per channel) into 4 ohms?
Thanks,
Darren
You'll be fine. Too much power doesnt blow speakers, clipping does. If you hear your cab distorting you know something is wrong... unless you're using a distortion box ; )

The other thing is that 1250w is PEAK power not continuous. Speaker cabs can generally handle double what they are rated for... as long as the eq is not setup wonky.
 
More importantly, I think, the high pass filter does not affect frequencies above its set frequency.

I didn't think a well designed shelving control impacts any frequencies above the shelving point either, but I might be wrong. I think the primary difference is the slope of the cut, with the hi pass being virtually complete and the set frequency, and the shelving having a more gently slope, usually described by the 'turnover freq' or something like that... the frequency at which the cut is -3db. I can't quite remember.
 
You'll be fine. Too much power doesnt blow speakers, clipping does.

No, too much power blows speakers, either from over-excursion or from exceeding the thermal rating. Clipping (i.e. distortion) at low power levels does no harm. Clipping at high power levels will cause more power to be delivered to the speaker. Clipping a 100W amp into a 400W speaker system is unlikely to cause damage.

Can this myth die already?

The other thing is that 1250w is PEAK power not continuous.

Says who?

Asad
 
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No, too much power blows speakers, either from over-excursion or from exceeding the thermal rating. Clipping (i.e. distortion) at low power levels does no harm. Clipping at high power levels will cause more power to be delivered to the speaker. Clipping a 100W amp into a 400W speaker system is unlikely to cause damage.

Can this myth die already?



Says who?

Asad

Well :spit::p
 

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