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Carvin R600 problem

TJBass

TJBass

Jul 3, 2000
1,003
103
Poplar Bluff, Missouri
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#1
Ok, so I have a series III R600 in a 2x10 cab, its an RC210 combo. The cab is 4 ohms and my extension cab is 4 ohms (Carvin RL118).

So I have been trying to figure out why my rig hasn't been loud enough to compete with my band, so I've been trying biamping and biamped full range because this amp can't go down to 2 ohm load bridged.

Last night, I decided I was just going to plug in the 1x18 to see how that would sound alone and run it in bridged which should have been 500 watts. In order to do this, you must press in the bridge push switch on the back of the amp, plug the speaker into one of the two "bridged" outlets and then rock on.

But, I noticed the bridge switch is very recessed into the chassis, and when I push on it it goes in prestty deep before it clicks in. I'm thinking this button should not be recessed, that it should be outside the chassis like the ground lift and preamp switch is but since I can't find a picture of a series III rear panel I can't be for sure.

Another thing is, when I put in in bridged, what I guess is bridged because the amp 1 and 2 controls do not work, the sound is very distorted, like a bad connection, with no definition and kinda comes in and out depending on how hard you hit the strings.

But when I use the same output jack but in biamped .....theres no problem, nice clean, clear tone. Ofcourse when I am at gig level I am having problems again.

But I find it strange that this switch seems like it might not be right and definately the sound is not right.

anybody have a pic of the back of one of these?
 
#4
TJBass said:
Right on!!!!!!!!!!!

Do I need to have the front cross over switch in "full range" if I run in bridged mode?
Click to expand...

On my old series II it did not matter (it was over ridden when placed in bridge mode). However, I would make sure the amp is set to full range, then set the rear to bridge, and lastly - only use the bridge only connectors.

ETA:

In case you don't have the manual

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
 
#6
Bass_Pounder said:
The switch is supposed to be recessed.

Prevents accidental activation of bridge mode.
Click to expand...

I actually have the exact same model and my bridge button is not recessed at all. It is the same as the ground lift switch as you had suspected.

I do sometimes notice that in bridged mode the unit cuts in and out occasionally. I have thought about taking it to get it repaired but it seems to only do that on a cold start (but not every time) and once it warms up the problem seems to go away.
 
#7
I have an R1000 and it has the exact same layout.
Yeah the bridge button is set deep in there so you won't accidentally hit it while you might be plugging something in the back there.

Totally make sure you're plugging into the center "bridge only" output on the back. Well, that's if you are using speakons. Or do you use the 1/4" connections?
And make sure it's set to full range.

It shouldn't be making a distorted sound at all. Try to clean out the input jacks. Especially if you haven't really used them before. I know my jacks get pretty dirty from non use.
 
#8
BassMastern8 said:
I actually have the exact same model and my bridge button is not recessed at all. It is the same as the ground lift switch as you had suspected.

I do sometimes notice that in bridged mode the unit cuts in and out occasionally. I have thought about taking it to get it repaired but it seems to only do that on a cold start (but not every time) and once it warms up the problem seems to go away.
Click to expand...

Are you sure yours is a series III ?

Series I and II did not have recessed switches, series III does
 

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