Carvin R600 question

[TJBass]

Make sure you have the speaker plugged in the right place, I would make sure the bridged switch is selected, speaker plugged into the bridged output connection, then make sure you have the input gain turned up enough that the preamp will send a signal to the power amp.

If you are running biamped, with one cab....stop and set it up for bridged mode. Biamped is only when you are using two cabs and you want the lows to go to one cab and highs to go to another cab, such as a 2x10/1x15 setup. 2x10 gets highs, 1x15 gets lows.

You have basically 4 volume knobs on that amp, one is input gain, which I mentioned, the other three depend on how you have the amp set up. If you are biamped, the knobs for amp 1 and amp 2 now control the two cabs that you should have connected when you use biamp mode. Amp 1 will control the volume to the 1x15 for the lows and Amp 2 will control the volume for the 2x10 for the highs. Then the final volume control is used as a master to set the final volume of the rig. Just consider amp 1 and 2 lolume as sort of a blend to get your tone before you crank it up with the master.

If you were in biamped mode with the peavey plugged in the bridged connection you may not get any sound, I never tried this so I couldn't tell you for sure but it's possible.

But if you are in biamp mode and you have the peavey plugged in to the biamped connection for the lows but the crossover is set to push mostly highs, you may have a loss of volume. or vice versa on the connections.

Hope this helps....

 

[GroovinOnFunk]

Yeah man, definitely helps a lot! Thanks.

Now here's my next question:

My RL210T that came with the R600 is 4 ohm/400 watt capacity.

If I run that bridged, won't it be getting 500 watts and potentially ruin my cab? This is mainly what I am worried about since 90% of the time I'll be playing out of that setup.

Next time I'm in the studio I'm definitely plugging that 4x10 in bridge mode. I'm sure that'll help x 10000000.

Well, in 10 minutes I'm going to band practice and will try out my amp + cab together in a band setting for the first time.

Make sure you have the speaker plugged in the right place, I would make sure the bridged switch is selected, speaker plugged into the bridged output connection, then make sure you have the input gain turned up enough that the preamp will send a signal to the power amp.

If you are running biamped, with one cab....stop and set it up for bridged mode. Biamped is only when you are using two cabs and you want the lows to go to one cab and highs to go to another cab, such as a 2x10/1x15 setup. 2x10 gets highs, 1x15 gets lows.

You have basically 4 volume knobs on that amp, one is input gain, which I mentioned, the other three depend on how you have the amp set up. If you are biamped, the knobs for amp 1 and amp 2 now control the two cabs that you should have connected when you use biamp mode. Amp 1 will control the volume to the 1x15 for the lows and Amp 2 will control the volume for the 2x10 for the highs. Then the final volume control is used as a master to set the final volume of the rig. Just consider amp 1 and 2 lolume as sort of a blend to get your tone before you crank it up with the master.

If you were in biamped mode with the peavey plugged in the bridged connection you may not get any sound, I never tried this so I couldn't tell you for sure but it's possible.

But if you are in biamp mode and you have the peavey plugged in to the biamped connection for the lows but the crossover is set to push mostly highs, you may have a loss of volume. or vice versa on the connections.

Hope this helps....

 

[TJBass]

Yeah that head will totally obliterate that cab in bridged mode, but you need to exercise restraint. If the speakers are farting out when you try to get enough volume at rehearsals to get over the drums and guitars, then you need to plug into that 4x10 instead.

In bridged mode with the 2x10 as a stand alone cab, your not going to get a lot of low end or volume before you start overdriving the cab. So just practice restraint with the volume controls and adjust your eq to cut any low freqs which will allow you more adjustment of volume.

In the rig I had, R600... RL210...RL118, I ran biamped because the cabs were an 8 and 4 ohm cabs, so in bridged mode it would have been a 2.67 ohm load which the head doesn't do. So running it biamped, 4 ohm load on one side, I was getting 250 watts to the tens, and an 8 ohm load on the other side, I was getting 175 watts to the 1x18. Any adjustment above flat on the 250khz slider on the eq would make the rig fart out....so I had to find a compromise between the eq and the volume control to be heard, unfortunately, the rig at that volume lacked any punch and and sounded distorted....

Let us know how it turned out last night...

My old rig:
Invalid Link Removed

My new rig:

 

[GroovinOnFunk]

Oh man... very very sad after my first band rehearsal.

My amp cut out on me 4-6 times.

If it cuts out on me even once in a live gig setting it will be so thoroughly embarrassing. When I turn certain pedals on it cut out and sometimes even with no pedals on it would cut out.

I ran the RL210T in bridge mode for for about 2 minutes and after a few crackles and pops I decided I should spare my cab. I don't think I caused any permanent damage but who knows... maybe I dide...
I promptly switched it to Bi-Amp mode.

I honestly am not sure if this even is an upgrade from my hartke combo... Please help... I really don't want to have wasted my money on this amp.

 

[5port]

When using effects boxes with the Redline amps you have to watch your levels. If you kick on a box that drives the amp into clipping it will distort and cut-out. There are clip leds near the master they should never light.

Make sure if you are using and active bass its in the active jack. reduce the drive control if you think you are driving it too hard.

Another way to use your effects is to use the effects loop in the rear of the amp. This will give you more consistant levels and keep the amp from tripping.

 

[GroovinOnFunk]

Hey man, thanks a lot for your suggestions. Are the clipping lights you refer to the two lights under the Power Amp1 and Power Amp2 knobs?

My micro Q-Tron is what was sending my amp into "crap-out mode"

I'd heard a bunch of people say there was really no point in using the Effects Loop in this amp so I never even considered it. I have to buy another cable before I can do that but maybe I'll try that.

Like I said though, though I haven't A-Bed them yet, I almost feel like my Hartke Kickback is more stress-free and is only SLIGHTLY weaker than my Carvin set-up


I'm freakin out here... Fresh out of college with very little money... Cant really afford to have a $260 purchase turn out to not work.

I appreciate all of the support and help. I realize at this point I've kind of high-jacked this thread so my apologies. Thank you so much everybody for the help!

Do I just need to monitor my gain and master volume or also the power amp1 and power amp2? I dont' even know what other questions to ask.

It also seemed like cranking the compressor ratio and threshold all the way up (whch I thought might help) contributed to the amp cutting out.

Ok, I'll stop rambling now and await some further advice and help.

You guys are the best!!!!!

When using effects boxes with the Redline amps you have to watch your levels. If you kick on a box that drives the amp into clipping it will distort and cut-out. There are clip leds near the master they should never light.

Make sure if you are using and active bass its in the active jack. reduce the drive control if you think you are driving it too hard.

Another way to use your effects is to use the effects loop in the rear of the amp. This will give you more consitant levels and keep the amp from tripping.

 

[5port]

Yes the LEDs under the Amp1 and Amp2 controls are the clip LEDs and should never light. If they do you are driving the output PA too hard. Keep amp1 and amp2 controls at a 4-5 level. Going above that will overdrive the output. Use the Master to control the volume. Manual below:

 

[bassplayer8953]

Hey man, thanks a lot for your suggestions. Are the clipping lights you refer to the two lights under the Power Amp1 and Power Amp2 knobs?

Clipping indicator is the single led between the input jacks. It should say "clip" or "clipping" and should not come on at all, or just for milliseconds, when you are at maximum gain. To make sure it works on your used amp, turn your preamp gain to max, your bass also, then do a her-whammo on the strings. (Don't be surprised if the amp cuts out again...it's a safety feature) The clipping led should show itself. Just to make sure it works...in normal playing the led should not light up, or only very briefly

My micro Q-Tron is what was sending my amp into "crap-out mode"

I'd heard a bunch of people say there was really no point in using the Effects Loop in this amp so I never even considered it. I have to buy another cable before I can do that but maybe I'll try that.

FX loops are designed to put the fx after the preamp. If you put the fx inline...before the preamp...you risk overdriving the signal, which could....could...be the reason it's cutting out. Yeah, it'll cost you the price of an extra cable or 2, but there's a reason amp mfr's bother to put in an fx loop (your Carvin has 3, in bi-amp mode you can tailor the fx to your hearts content) but 'ya gotta use them.

Like I said though, though I haven't A-Bed them yet, I almost feel like my Hartke Kickback is more stress-free and is only SLIGHTLY weaker than my Carvin set-up

As discussed previously via pm, you really don't have an ideal setup for that head just yet. Carvins in bridged mode are designed for a 4 ohm load from the speakers, the Peavey cab is an 8 ohm (I hope you're using it in bridged mode with the Peavey cab) and your 2 x 10 really isn't enough speaker for the R600 in bridged mode. You need to acquire another (4 ohm) cab, then split the channels. Then the amp should give you the power you think you should be receiving.

I'm freakin out here... Fresh out of college with very little money... Cant really afford to have a $260 purchase turn out to not work.

Broke or not, in the world of bass amps $260 is not a lot of $$$. You got a great deal on what you bought...but your stack is not complete, and will not sound like you want it to, until it is. Combo amps are designed to be a package. Separates are just that...separate. You have to put together all the ingredients before the end result sounds like it's designed to. Patience is a virtue. Use the R600, with the Peavey 4 x 10, in bridged mode, until you can afford a 2nd (4 ohm cab) then tag-team your 2nd cab with the R210, in non-bridged mode. If you need the extra power instead of bi-amping, use the "full range" pushbutton on the front of the amp.

I appreciate all of the support and help. I realize at this point I've kind of high-jacked this thread so my apologies. Thank you so much everybody for the help!

This is pretty much your thread; I don't think you could hijack it.

Do I just need to monitor my gain and master volume or also the power amp1 and power amp2? I dont' even know what other questions to ask.

Carvins have lots of everything...maybe too much so. Better to start everything flat, and build up from there, than to go crazy trying to add stuff, and wind up up with sound and gain that sounds like poop. Just words to the wise, been there, done that...it's really easy to go overboard with these amps. Regarding the volume controls, set everything to the 9:00 - 10:00 position, and adjust from there.

It also seemed like cranking the compressor ratio and threshold all the way up (whch I thought might help) contributed to the amp cutting out.

Again, it's easy to overdo it. Pull the compression back, then adjust up...slowly. And the gate: make sure it's off. Every time I've tried to use it...even a little...if made things worse. The gate seems pretty useless to me.

Ok, I'll stop rambling now and await some further advice and help.

You guys are the best!!!!!
[/qoute]

1 other piece of advice, regarding Carvin amps. They are very sensitive to line voltage, and if the volts drops below 118 or so, that can make them cut out also. Make sure you don't share extension cords or use power strips; go straight to the wall plug, or bring your own extension cord.

 

[bassplayer8953]

Yes the LEDs under the Amp1 and Amp2 controls are the clip LEDs and should never light. If they do you are driving the output PA too hard. Keep amp1 and amp2 controls at a 4-5 level. Going above that will overdrive the output. Use the Master to control the volume.

You lost me on this one...(good job linking the manual for the OP, tho...) I have 2 RL's...an R600 & R1000, both series 2 (with the "real" tube preamp) and there is only 1 clip indicator: between the input jacks. The manual only shows 1 also. Series 3 may be different, I've never seen a Series 3 live.

To the OP: what does it say, to the right of your volume controls? The earlier models have an outline of a tube behind the RedLine lettering (and a real tube in the preamp) the later models say Series 3, or something to that effect, and have a tube emulator instead of a tube.

 

[5port]

You lost me on this one...(good job linking the manual for the OP, tho...) I have 2 RL's...an R600 & R1000, both series 2 (with the "real" tube preamp) and there is only 1 clip indicator: between the input jacks. The manual only shows 1 also. Series 3 may be different, I've never seen a Series 3 live.

To the OP: what does it say, to the right of your volume controls? The earlier models have an outline of a tube behind the RedLine lettering (and a real tube in the preamp) the later models say Series 3, or something to that effect, and have a tube emulator instead of a tube.

Mine is in a RC210 combo about 10 years old now and is the same (1 clip on the input). The series 3 amps had two under the amp controls they added at the end of the series. Depends on which one he has.

 

[bassplayer8953]

Mine is in a RC210 combo about 10 years old now and is the same (1 clip on the input). The series 3 amps had two under the amp controls they added at the end of the series. Depends on which one he has.

Yeah, that's why I asked him to detail, the next time he's on.

Either way, 1 things for sure: Carvins don't like clipping. And they'll drive you crazy if you drive them too hard.

 

[GroovinOnFunk]

I don't think my amp is a Series III, it doesn't say it anywhere on the amp. It's just like the amp in the manual that was linked. It has a "clip" light right above my input jack (which does work) AND it has 2 "peak" lights in between the knobs for Amp 1 and Amp 2. All of the lights do work.

I do recall from my rehearsal that the lights that went on the most were the ones between the Amp 1 and Amp 2 knobs. I thought that if the peak lights went on it would just add a little bit of natural overdrive to my sound. In retrospect I would say that there were a lot of flashing lights between the clip light from time to time (though only when the gain was at like 5 o'clock). The peak lights also did a lot of flashing. I suppose coincidentally, the amp did a lot of quitting. Haha.

I hear what you're sayin bassplayer8953, what I have is kind of like just the jacket and shirt of a suit... I'm still missing the pants and tie to go with it. In a combo you buy the entire suit prepackaged and therefore don't have as many options of what kind of shirt or tie, for example, you would like to wear with the jacket and pants.

Hahaha. Hope that makes sense.

I'm about to sit down for an hour or so and play with knobs on that amp.

 

[bassplayer8953]

I don't think my amp is a Series III, it doesn't say it anywhere on the amp. It's just like the amp in the manual that was linked. It has a "clip" light right above my input jack (which does work) AND it has 2 "peak" lights in between the knobs for Amp 1 and Amp 2. All of the lights do work.

Like this?


[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

That's a Series 3. Meaning it was made after 2001. Doesn't really change anything, other than you have no tube to go bad.

I hear what you're sayin bassplayer8953, what I have is kind of like just the jacket and shirt of a suit... I'm still missing the pants and tie to go with it. In a combo you buy the entire suit prepackaged and therefore don't have as many options of what kind of shirt or tie, for example, you would like to wear with the jacket and pants.

Good analogy...IOW, don't go out in public without your bottom end covered...

 

[GroovinOnFunk]

Yeah, mine looks just like the R1000 head pictured there except obviously it's a R600.

Does the emulated tube sound of the series III sound like an actual tube? I still haven't really figured out which I prefer, tube or solid-state sound.

Making progress slowly but surely.

 

[bassplayer8953]

My R600 has a problem in that regard: the tube side of the pre-amp doesn't work. On my R1000, it does. I prefer the sound of my R1000, with the solid state & tube sides of the pre-amp blended 50-50. The R600 doesn't have as good a tone, whether due to the non-existant tube side or other internal differences, so the R600 is relegated to back-up status. I've never tried the R-series with the emulator, so I'll have to defer to someone else. The newest model Carvin bass heads, the B series, and BX series, have gone back to tubes in the preamps, so that should tell you something...


Right now I'm satisfied with the tone & power I'm getting from my amps, and I'm not looking to change a thing...(never thought I'd say that, but here we are...)

 

[diamondsplit]

The Redline series had some massive Combo Amps. I see redline series go for cheap are they good amps

 

[TJBass]

Depends on the combo, if you are looking at the redline RC210 with the 2 10 inch speakers, plan on getting a 15 or 410 cab to biamp it with for gigs, it just doesnt have the power handling speakers on its own to gig.

 

[BassmanPaul]

The Redline series had some massive Combo Amps. I see redline series go for cheap are they good amps

I would honestly think that in the neigh on four years since this thread was last active the subject matter no longer has any relevance!!

 

[diamondsplit]

I thought they made 1x15 2x10 combo all in one

 

[will33]

I would honestly think that in the neigh on four years since this thread was last active the subject matter no longer has any relevance!!

Great tone always has relevance!

I had both the R600 as well as the PB500 that came before it......the PB500 took the cake. Power that mattered, tone that worked, etc.

The Redline was extremely clean/neutral. Great platform for pedals or other tone shaping devices, but a lifeless thing on its own.

Some would consider that a good thing, a "blank slate on which to paint", and they'd be right. Some of us other plug-n-play guys, "plug in---> get tone"...not so much.

I miss my old PB500 and their 15 cab from back then.

Clean tone, but with balls. I could do Holy Diver with nothing between bass and amp.