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Changing lift straps on an amplifier

GretschWretch

Supporting Member
Dec 27, 2013
12,449
25,119
East Central Alabama
Nearly all my amps have one grip for lifting, centered on the top and running parallel the the face/back of the amp. For the amps I am likely to continue to use (and leaving out of the thread those that are now far too heavy for me to attempt to move), what I wish to do is add grips that run parallel to the amp's sides, near the edges. Doing so will enable me to left and transport the amp with both hands, which at my age really makes a difference.

My question is, is this approach structurally sound? Is there enough wood/framing on the edges of these amplifiers to firmly anchor a screw that will not strip out due to the amp's weight while being lifted? I don't want any broken toes.

The amps I have in mind are a Polytone Mini-Brute II and a couple of Yorkville BLOC 80Bs. I think my days of needing really high-powered amps for really large venues are behind me, so my Yorkville BLOC 250B and a couple of others will continue to collect dust.
 
Like Red said, use machine screws. T-nuts are most likely how the original strap handles are installed and you should use the same for your side handles. Structurally, just make sure you’re far enough away from the side/edge of the case to be able to fit the t-nut in there without hitting the side panel with your drill.
 
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Doing so will enable me to left and transport the amp with both hands, which at my age really makes a difference.
Get a small folding hand truck and wheel the cabs, only lifting to put it in the car or on stage.
Wheeling behind you with two fingers is muuuch better than carrying, even if it is just across a parking lot.
 
ditto to ideas listed above (both to add straps or carts) We all have to find workable solutions if was want to keep working.

One of my first teachers in Philly back in the 80s was a famed bassist in his mid 70s. I went to his house and he was loading for a gig (back seat of a 'land yacht' stationwagon —yes kids that what we had back tehn 🤣 ) He had ingeniously setup a "box and tackle" pulley to the hand strap above the inside of the drivers-side rear passenger's door so that he could quickly and easily load and unload his Ampeg Fliptop 15 (nightly) to and from gigs. Brilliant! Bassists are problem solvers LOL
 
Get a small folding hand truck and wheel the cabs, only lifting to put it in the car or on stage.
Wheeling behind you with two fingers is muuuch better than carrying, even if it is just across a parking lot.
Instead of a folding hand cart, how about a folding self-propelled wagon? :roflmao:
71NHJ1MgOnL-1._AC_SL1500_.jpg
 
Get a small folding hand truck and wheel the cabs, only lifting to put it in the car or on stage.
Wheeling behind you with two fingers is muuuch better than carrying, even if it is just across a parking lot.
Wow! Never thought of this. It actually would make things more easy on me while still preserving the integrity of the amp. Thanks! Harbor Freight, here I come!
 
Wow! Never thought of this. It actually would make things more easy on me while still preserving the integrity of the amp. Thanks! Harbor Freight, here I come!
The nose plate does have no slip nipples on it, to prevent possibly scratching the tolex of a cab I put on a thick cabinet shelf liner with 3M command double sided tape. Bonus it filled in the holes for carrying smaller stuff.





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I haven't tried these. I found them researching replacement handles for my Trace Elliot V-Types. The first one appears to be an exact replacement. The only downside is they are not cheap.

Penn Elcom H1000-PE1 (appears to include all necessary hardware)
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Similar designs.

Adam Hall 3417
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P-H334 (for Marshall AS50D/AS100D)
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Like Red said, use machine screws. T-nuts are most likely how the original strap handles are installed and you should use the same for your side handles. Structurally, just make sure you’re far enough away from the side/edge of the case to be able to fit the t-nut in there without hitting the side panel with your drill.
This is the way to do it.

You can buy a vast panoply of handle styles thru Amazon. Your local good hardware store (and congratulations if you have a good local hardware store!) will have a small selection, but that might be enough.
 
And even with wheels, you still need to pick the thing up at each end of the wheeled journey. Might as well make it as easy for yourself as possible. Two hand lift with the weight centered between your feet, using the big leg muscles rather than the back, is a far better lift than off-center one-handed.
 
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I haven't tried these. I found them researching replacement handles for my Trace Elliot V-Types. The first one appears to be an exact replacement. The only downside is they are not cheap.

Penn Elcom H1000-PE1 (appears to include all necessary hardware)
View attachment 7413464
View attachment 7413465

Invalid Link Removed

Similar designs.

Adam Hall 3417
View attachment 7413466
View attachment 7413485

P-H334 (for Marshall AS50D/AS100D)
View attachment 7413468
View attachment 7413484

A lot of those style handles are not really meant for side mounting, something I've found out the hard way. ;)
 
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A lot of those style handles are not really meant for side mounting, something I've found out the hard way. ;)
The way I read his post, he's wanting to install handles on the top surface of the amp, but at either end of it.

Be that as it may, your advice is correct - the kinds of handles shown above are NOT intended for side loading. There are plenty out there that are.

1768932640423.png
 
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The handle like turf3 posted above, (but with a little rubber on the grip part and spring-loaded so as to not vibrate, like on the Mesa Subway cabinets), mounted on the sides near the top may work. No T-nuts required. I have been tempted to add them to our big QSC subs that are not easy to lift by the factory handles,

There are many suppliers out there with various styles. Like this:
 
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The handle like turf3 posted above, (but with a little rubber on the grip part and spring-loaded so as to not vibrate, like on the Mesa Subway cabinets), mounted on the sides near the top may work. No T-nuts required. I have been tempted to add them to our big QSC subs that are not easy to lift by the factory handles,

There are many suppliers out there with various styles. Like this:
I'd be a bit leery of just screwing wood screws right into the wood. I'd rather use T nuts, myself.
 
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Agreed :bag:

...I guess I didn't read the OP closely enough as I assumed he meant to mount them on the top near the edges of the cab.

A la
View attachment 7413847
I wasn't sure which way he really meant to do it, just throwing out that caveat in general. ;)
 
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