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cheap DI vs. expensive DI

I believe all passive DIs will have a signal drop, even expensive ones. Actives should not.

Also make sure you do not have a pad activated.

i dont even think i have a pad on my di, it is a Groove Tubes, and right now im using it because it has been sitting around and i got tired of seeing it sit, but so far im liking it.
 
That's Groove Tubes passive DI? You will get a small drop because you can't get something for nothing. You can't have a 100% efficient passive circuit of any type. There will always be some losses. In this case probably mainly the transformer.

However, the mixer will be expecting a mic level signal, which is less than an instrument level signal. So the drop should be meaningless.
 
i dont want to hijack this thread but do all d.i. boxes have a signal drop when you use them or is that only on a cheap d.i?

ALL DI 's should.

A DI has 2 functions, whether it's passive OR active. The transformer in the passive DI matches level and impedance. In the active version, the circuitry is designed to do that (match level and impedance), also.
The bass output is very high impedance (usually . . . there ARE exceptions, but this is the Norm), and the console mic input is expecting a low impedance (around 200 ohms, IIRC). Also the console mic input is expecting "mic level", NOT "instument level" OR "line level".

However, the mixer will be expecting a mic level signal, which is less than an instrument level signal.

Right. A difference of about 20 or 30 dB, IIRC.


I believe all passive DIs will have a signal drop, even expensive ones. Actives should not.

Why not? All "direct injection" boxes should match impedance (dropping from about 100 Kohms to 200 ohms) AND drop the signal to "mic level" (that's usually a loss of 20dB)

BTW, using a tube ("valve" for the brits) DI is a very elegant solution as they (tubes/valves) often have an input impedance of >1 Megohm (1,000,000 ohms) and a very low output impedance.
 
Why not? All "direct injection" boxes should match impedance (dropping from about 100 Kohms to 200 ohms) AND drop the signal to "mic level" (that's usually a loss of 20dB)
Most of the active DIs I use are also preamps and can produce line level outputs. If you can produce line level outputs, you can easily drop to mic level.
 
Most of the active DIs I use are also preamps and can produce line level outputs. If you can produce line level outputs, you can easily drop to mic level.

But why would you want to drop the level after it's ALREADY been pre-amped? The purpose of a DI is to interface with the mic pre.
In the example you mention, the DI and preamp are all in one case . . . the interfacing goes on "inside" the box! And you end up with the desired "line-level" output, ready to go directly to tape (or to the DAW line inputs)!

BTW, I'd run that line-level signal to a LINE input, NOT a MIC input. That way you'd have the best posible signal, without any losses, extra noise or BS.

If we're talking about live sound, I'd still run that line-level signal to a LINE input on the console . . . talk about "punchy bass"!!

YMMV
 
But why would you want to drop the level after it's ALREADY been pre-amped? The purpose of a DI is to interface with the mic pre.
In the example you mention, the DI and preamp are all in one case . . . the interfacing goes on "inside" the box! And you end up with the desired "line-level" output, ready to go directly to tape (or to the DAW line inputs)!

BTW, I'd run that line-level signal to a LINE input, NOT a MIC input. That way you'd have the best posible signal, without any losses, extra noise or BS.

If we're talking about live sound, I'd still run that line-level signal to a LINE input on the console . . . talk about "punchy bass"!!

YMMV
One of the active DIs I have used successfully is the ART Tube MP. I run the 1/4" output to an amp and the XLR output to the mixer. I have to keep the MP at instrument level or it will overpower the input to the amp. I can't drop it to mic level or the amp will not function properly.
 
Having tried active + active I do not like it at all.
Passive + passive will work for some people, but considering I've only done it once and it sounded ok, I just think the opposites compliment better.


any particular reason why you don't like passive bass + passive DI?

reason I ask is because I play ALL passive basses and am considering the Radial ProDI.
 
How about the Countryman Type 85 DI box?
If you look carefully on the net you can find a new one shipped for $129. Most ask $150 plus on average.

They are good enough for Bonnie Raitt.....used $25- $60. Absolutely built like a TANK. 9v or phantom. Speaker of line in. What more could you want? and I'm a Summit freak!
But for sitting on a hot stage being stepped on a kicked at an outdoor festival taking no room in my bag. What can I say?
Also: Some passive DIs often sound better with active basses and actice DIs with passive basses. YMMV or has.
 
any particular reason why you don't like passive bass + passive DI?

reason I ask is because I play ALL passive basses and am considering the Radial ProDI.

Again not that I don't like it, I just think the opposites play better from the few times I've played a passive bass even at all. It probably is a better rule to say active bass = passive DI, as I'm sure the passive + passive is going to work fine. Just feel the active circuits don't always play well together.

But you'll be good to go with the ProDI. :)
 
I'm probably gonna pull the trigger by the end of the day so I'd appreciate any last minute opinions or suggestions.
For live i think a Radial Passive type JDI would be GREAT! as well as a Countryman Type 85. .If you are using inear monitors I personally would not use a countryman.. It dont like the Perfect high end coming in the IEM.. But if it s going through speakers its a great, built like a tank tank Active DI with real nice true repro of your input signal.. I have had mine for 30 years.. and it is still flawless and works as good as the day it was new.. I think the only thing that would mess on eup is if it were run over by a train..