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Cheapo violin basses

There's at least one video out there (stew Mac website I think) with directions on how to replace the knobs with new ones on the original tuners. Not a particularly complicated procedure if you have a few tools at your disposal.

I've replaced similar knobs on guitar tuners, so i know it's possible and how to do it, but I haven't found the right buttons until now. So I did what the guy that sold the bass to me said, glue them.

I would say that those tuners are not up to the job if they are cracking. I have guitars (from as early as 1962) with similar tuners and not one has cracked.

Give me bass tuners on a bass any day.

Guitar tuners, like the flower tuners on Gibsons for example, crack too.
So maybe get 1,5 set of bass tuners for the Les Paul players with that problem.

they sell replacement buttons for a reason.

I know, but I haven't found the right ones until now.
 
I've replaced similar knobs on guitar tuners, so i know it's possible and how to do it, but I haven't found the right buttons until now. So I did what the guy that sold the bass to me said, glue them.



Guitar tuners, like the flower tuners on Gibsons for example, crack too.
So maybe get 1,5 set of bass tuners for the Les Paul players with that problem.



I know, but I haven't found the right ones until now.
The last thing I need on a gig is to have to go in my tool kit for a pair of pliers to tune up with. :rollno:
I had almost convinced myself that a Hofner Contemporary Series was a possibility but have now rejected that idea.

I'm not saying that Gibsons don't have a problem, I just don't like the idea of guitar tuners on a bass. If they were perfect for the job then I am sure that Leo and others would not have designed bass specific tuners.
 
I had a Rogue for a while, and I was quite happy with it. The round-wound strings it came with were garbage, but a set of decent flats and it was ready to thump. I put a set of regular GHS flats on it and had no problem stringing it up, but I can see how not all full-scale strings would work on all viola basses, the main issue being the tuners on some of them.

Something to think about regarding the new Hofner Ignition series---I haven't played one, but, several places I've seen listings that describe them as "semi-hollow." (MF, SW.) My understanding is that the originals were full-hollow. I'm pretty sure my Rogue was full hollow; I don't know about the other usual suspects. A friend of mine has an Ignition series Club Bass (functionally the same with a different body shape) and it's a full hollow bass. He says that he always has to check the case to make sure it's actually in there, because it weighs so little.

And, a note about strings---LaBella makes short-scale flats, and they also make a special "Beatle Bass" set of flats. The difference between the two is that the Beatle Bass strings have a little extra length to cover the space between the bridge and the tailpiece, whereas the regular short scale flats are shorter, for basses where the strings anchor in the bridge itself. But, they both have very skinny wires to wrap around the guitar tuners used on some old basses. I use the regular short-scale flats on an old Danelectro short horn that I have, but the Beatle Bass strings are (as the name implies) designed for viola basses. At first I tried the Beatle strings on the Dano, and the low E broke, because the extra length required that the full-thickness part of the string wrap around the post, which put too much strain on a sharp kink where the string thickened.
 
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I had a Rogue for a while, and I was quite happy with it. The round-wound strings it came with were garbage, but a set of decent flats and it was ready to thump. I put a set of regular GHS flats on it and had no problem stringing it up, but I can see how not all full-scale strings would work on all viola basses, the main issue being the tuners on some of them.

Something to think about regarding the new Hofner Ignition series---I haven't played one, but, several places I've seen listings that describe them as "semi-hollow." (MF, SW.) My understanding is that the originals were full-hollow. I'm pretty sure my Rogue was full hollow; I don't know about the other usual suspects. A friend of mine has an Ignition series Club Bass (functionally the same with a different body shape) and it's a full hollow bass. He says that he always has to check the case to make sure it's actually in there, because it weighs so little.

And, a note about strings---LaBella makes short-scale flats, and they also make a special "Beatle Bass" set of flats. The difference between the two is that the Beatle Bass strings have a little extra length to cover the space between the bridge and the tailpiece, whereas the regular short scale flats are shorter, for basses where the strings anchor in the bridge itself. But, they both have very skinny wires to wrap around the guitar tuners used on some old basses. I use the regular short-scale flats on an old Danelectro short horn that I have, but the Beatle Bass strings are (as the name implies) designed for viola basses. At first I tried the Beatle strings on the Dano, and the low E broke, because the extra length required that the full-thickness part of the string wrap around the post, which put too much strain on a sharp kink where the string thickened.
Iv'e just double checked on the Hofner site and the Contemporary Series (CT) are semi hollow, the ignition is fully hollow.

I quite fancied a semi hollow having very briefly owned a hollow bodied Hofner Senator bass in about 1967/8, it fed back worse than a cheap mic. To be fair to it we were stupid loud back then and it didn't suit the style of music we played (Cream, Hendrix, etc) especially with flats on!
 
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The last thing I need on a gig is to have to go in my tool kit for a pair of pliers to tune up with. :rollno:
I had almost convinced myself that a Hofner Contemporary Series was a possibility but have now rejected that idea.

I'm not saying that Gibsons don't have a problem, I just don't like the idea of guitar tuners on a bass. If they were perfect for the job then I am sure that Leo and others would not have designed bass specific tuners.

The other side is that a set of new tuners: Invalid Link Removed
Will cost you less than a set of strings:Invalid Link Removed

I also think that mr Fender designed instruments with a different set of ideas as starting point than Karl, so you're bound to have a different outcome.
 
The iconic Hofner Beatle bass has unique sound because it is constructed much like a double bass. A hollow cigar box body and a floating wooden bridge strung to tail piece.... essentially the same way a double bass is constructed. For that reason, it has thuddy attack and a quick decay. These acoustic qualities give it a unique sound. Hofner also has a unique "weird" electronic and switching circuit that is part of the sound.

Many "clone" violin basses are constructed with a solid core inside the body or are completely solid which makes them much closer to a traditional solid body bass and they don't have the same sonic characteristics of a Hofner.

The Hofner ignition bass is an Asian version of the German Violin bass. The construction and materials are pretty close to the original and the sound it produces is very faithful to "the Hofner" sound.... and its cheap.
 
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The control panel looks interesting.
I received it about an hour ago and haven't quite figured out the "Phase" switch yet, it makes a difference to the sound but I will pull the control panel later and figure out the schematic.

First impressions of the Tanglewood TVB-3
Without touching the controls on my GK MB800 amp (set up for a G&L L-2500) it sounds really authentic.
It has a lot more lows than I expected.
I don't think feedback will be an issue (my main concern with a hollow bodied bass).
The build quality is superb.
It has a slight bit of neck dive.
It needs strap locks, it has already dropped off the strap once (I was holding it so no damage done).
1/4 turn of the truss rod and it plays like a dream, the intonation is spot on.

This is going with me to the gig tonight

Edit. Post gig report.

I levelled a high fret and fitted pair of strap lock buttons before I set off for the gig. When I put my leather strap on it (with suede back) there was enough friction that the neck dive wasn't a problem.
It sounded way better than I thought it would in the mix. Even our brand snob guitarist, who said I should get a Hofner because "the cheap copies sound like crap" was impressed. The drummer said he preferred the sound to my G&L and to be honest I think I did too although that might be the honeymoon period.
I took my G&L "just in case" but never got it out of the case.

The only downer on the night was some drunk calling me the banjo player - bloody cheek.
I did have a bit of rapid thinking to do an a few songs where I used the low B but nothing too catastrophic happened.

We are a 60s band and do quite a few Beatles covers so it suits the band image perfectly, I can see it being my goto bass for gigs. The best 130GBP I have spent for a long time. I must get a proper case or substantial gig bag for in now.
:bassist:
Time to turn in now.
 
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As promised I pulled the control panel, this is what I found.

2 x humbuckers series connected each with its own on/off switch
Volume A1M
Tone B250k
Tone cap 104 (0.1uF)
Phase switch reverses the phase of neck pickup
All mounted on a nice brass plate

While I was in there I put the airline on and blew out a load of polishing compound and other manufacturing debris.
 
Came across a poly string solid body u-bass from Rondo for $150 US and realized I could use all the parts from that and have a violin style solid body made to fit. This is what it will look like.

Violin bass solid red705.jpg
 
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Came across a poly string solid body u-bass from Rondo for $150 US and realized I could use all the parts from that and have a violin style solid body made to fit. This is what it will look like.

View attachment 607553

Copycat! :spit:

Looks great. :thumbsup:

I've been sizing up parts for a U-Violin-bass. I won't have a pickguard on mine, though. Too many mental ideas, I have, not enough time nor talent to bring them to life. :rolleyes:

@delta7fred :: U-Bass scale length is 21-23 depending on hollow or solidbody, IIRC
 
Thanks Feral Feline.

I did think of making a violin shaped body and fitting a Hofner "Shorty" bass neck, bridge and pickup but got a great deal on a Tanglewood violin bass so that idea got scrapped. I have far too many half finished projects anyway!

I am in the process of converting a Strat into a bass (24.5" scale length). My original idea was to use the bottom 4 strings of a standard 5 string set which would give me more or less the correct string tension at that scale length when tuned EADG. However with a shortened set of (used) 55 - 110 strings it plays remarkably well so I might just go with standard strings.