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Chickenbacker Refinishing Question

mark1542

mark1542

Dec 28, 2012
103
40
#1
Hey guys! So I finally received the Chickenbacker 5 String bass I ordered from Ali Express over the weekend! Looks like a pretty nice build. I am planning on attempting to strip it down and put new electronics in it. Not sure how I want to finish (paint or finish), but wanted to get some advice on the best way to strip the finish off. Would using a heat gun and paint scraper be the best method over a chemical? I'll definitely be taping the fretboard/neck off since it is a neck through design.

Is there anything special with the binding I need to do when stripping the finish to make sure it isn't damaged?

Also, gimme some ideas on how you would finish the guitar. I want to do something "out of the ordinary". I want somebody to see this and think "man that looks like a Rick, but I'm not sure". I don't want the name Rickenbacker on this bass anywhere since it isn't one, so wanting to just do something unique with it.

Thanks for taking a look!
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#2
Rather than worry about getting it off, just scuff it up enough for reasonable adhesion and go.

What you do with it is pretty much up to you. Since you are evidently fishing for ideas, I'll put a "whiteburst" or "fade-out" on the table, as I can't think of a lot of examples of that in the wild (but I see some when I do an image search), and you have a fairly dark wood for most of it. So, same as a sunburst only white fading to color/wood rather than dark fading to color/wood, and toss in a bunch of pearl flake or the like to make with the fancy. Of course then you should probably change to dark or checkerboard binding. Perhaps some light color rather than white.

A different thought where you might not even need to remove the finish (as you'll just be artfully scuffing it up) would be an "engine-turned" finish, which is overlapping abrasive circular patterns. Usually seen on metal, but if you have a decent gloss finish to start with you might get a good effect. Here's a guitar article about using a "paper" with the engine-turned look on the surface and painting over it: [Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
 
#3
Wow, those are interesting. I'll look into them more. I really like the look. Honestly, the only concern I have is just my expertise. Are those fade burst looks pretty hard to accomplish? I found a few videos I'm going to watch to see how they accomplished the look, but definitely like the idea of not having to strip off the finish completely.

Thanks for sharing!
 
#5
sing-modulator said:
id suggest something in seafoam! or maybe a metallic color? those inlays are beautiful, it would be nice to have some color that compliments them!
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Lol it's funny you mentioned that. I was actually just looking at a sonic blue color similar to that this morning. My only thought on that color is what to do with the headstock to make it look good. Paint it to match the body?



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#7
Yeah, I agree, either just scuff the finish and overcoat, or leave it alone. Finish looks pretty good as-is, and I use a heat gun to bend plastic binding, it’s easy to trash it if you aren’t really careful. The binding can be masked for paint with this 3M fine line tape, I used it on my build with great results. It’s really flexible, so it will follow a tight radius with no distortion. You just burnish the edges hard and shoot a dust coat of clear over it to seal the edges, then shoot color coat. This stuff is incredible, and I’ve tried everything. Otherwise you have to scrape the binding, which is a big learning curve.
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#8
Gilmourisgod said:
Yeah, I agree, either just scuff the finish and overcoat, or leave it alone. Finish looks pretty good as-is, and I use a heat gun to bend plastic binding, it’s easy to trash it if you aren’t really careful. The binding can be masked for paint with this 3M fine line tape, I used it on my build with great results. It’s really flexible, so it will follow a tight radius with no distortion. You just burnish the edges hard and shoot a dust coat of clear over it to seal the edges, then shoot color coat. This stuff is incredible, and I’ve tried everything. Otherwise you have to scrape the binding, which is a big learning curve.
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Yeah, definitely see what you all are saying. I was really hoping to make it something unique, but it may be best to just leave it and just devote time/energy on changing out all of the electronics.

I do have one more question though. They did not include a bridge with this, so I have to buy a bridge. I would buy a Rick bridge, but something in a 5 string is pretty much nonexistent. I was looking at the Hipshot A-Style or Kick-Ass bridges, but do you all have a recommendation?

Thanks for all of the help!
 
#15
micguy said:
It looks pretty good as is - I'd lightly sand the thing (600 grit) and spray some satin poly on it - I'm not a fan of gloss finishes. I'd probably leave the finish on the fretboard as is, though.
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I really like this idea...gives it a little bit of a different look. I'm with you, I like more of a satin finish myself. It also lets me at least make some kind of change, I've been itching to do something to it. It will still have the Rick look (the headstock really gives it away lol), but changes it up a little.

Whatever I do, I'm not going to touch the fretboard though. Don't want to fool with that at this point lol.
 
#16
EricMordus said:
are these chickenbackers any good? Of course I'd have my guy set it up, but are they even worth the trouble?
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I was completely surprised by the quality. I had planned on having to really do some fretwork, new body finish, etc., but the build was really good, and the fretboard is actually really well done. I researched a TON before buying, and bought from somebody with a lot of positive reviews.

I agree about the electronics. I didn't get to play it before I stripped it since it didn't have a bridge, but I've heard the electronics are junk. So I'm scrapping everything from pots to pickups, and completely re-building the electronics.

The body is mahogany though (made sure and avoided basswood), and the neck is maple, so the body itself is really pretty nice. I have a buddy who builds guitars, and he was blown away at how well the body was made, so that made me feel better.
 
#17
One easy* way I've found to change the look of an instrument is to change the hardware color - a few of my basses are black hardware, and with the right wood, the contrast can be nice. I also have one bass where every piece of hardware is black and chrome - a black bridge with chrome saddles, black tuners with chrome bushings, black pickups with chrome blade pole pieces, etc.

* I said easy, not cheap.
 
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#18
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#19
mark1542 said:
I was completely surprised by the quality. I had planned on having to really do some fretwork, new body finish, etc., but the build was really good, and the fretboard is actually really well done. I researched a TON before buying, and bought from somebody with a lot of positive reviews.

I agree about the electronics. I didn't get to play it before I stripped it since it didn't have a bridge, but I've heard the electronics are junk. So I'm scrapping everything from pots to pickups, and completely re-building the electronics.

The body is mahogany though (made sure and avoided basswood), and the neck is maple, so the body itself is really pretty nice. I have a buddy who builds guitars, and he was blown away at how well the body was made, so that made me feel better.
Click to expand...
Yeah, at best I'd use this as a base to build a Frankenstein out of. Completely replace the guts.... hmmmm....
 

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