No. It will have an adverse affect on the stability.
I've one long term experiment on this, though it was for a Strat. I sanded the back of the neck to a profile I liked, and the fingerboard (fretboard, whatever, not like there actually was one, it was a solid maple neck/FB, with the skunk stripe as the show of how the TR was installed) was bare too. I ripped the frets out, changed the clay inlays to pearl, put a compound radius on the board, installed jumbo fretwire, and did the back of the neck contouring within a week of buying it, and never put any sort of oil or anything anywhere on the bare wood.
Not surprisingly, I used the truss rod a bit, but it was all quite manageable. I've been a huge fan of a certain set of procedures, though. First of all, never use strings that are far past their prime. If they still have some snap, they're ok, but any hint of flub, they're history. Second, and this follows well, using the same strings (gauge, material, even manufacturer) when restringing. Third, following naturally would be making sure the instrument was set up exceptionally well, in a stable environment, with the strings of choice broken in but not even a little over used. Even with the trem on the Strat, and so long as I didn't bump the tuning machines after getting the strings stretched out, I never had much issue with the instrument being in tune, and here's the key point: When it was a little sharp, add a little bow into the neck; when flat, straighten out a little. Using the TR to counter the necks natural movement saved me from bothering with the springs in the trem messing with tuning. There are other important factors, but those are more related to trem systems. As bass tremolo systems are becoming more abundant, I'll pass on this advice. I remember reading a David Gilmour interview where he was asked about his divebombs and then hitting the next note (un-whammied) and not having it be out of tune. He said he quickly gives the bar a tug to take all the slack back between the nut and saddle, instead of any of it being lost between the nut and tuner post. I did some experimenting, and his trick works magic.
Once your instrument is set up properly, and if you can be careful enough not to bump the tuning machines, you should be able to maintain your instrument with simple TR tweaks. Necks move, Bass necks even more due to overall length. Busy gigging situations don't allow for such ease of maintenance, but around your house or studio, this approach can save you lots of time re-tuning, while retaining optimum feel (since that is the key, bringing the neck to the most desired position, and effecting the strings together, instead of individually tuning the strings on a neck that has moved).
YMMV, but this has worked for me for years, on an unfinished neck with a tremolo, and while living in three very different climatic locations.
Thats actually kinda gross. 
