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Circle K strings...

#821
Duckwater said:
Snapped 2 Circle K .045 G strings in a week, I gotta up my gauge.
Click to expand...

What were you doing when it snapped? I play a fair amount of very aggressive slap/pop and rarely break a string. I'd check to make sure your nut is well shaped and there there are no sharp edges on the bridge saddles (sharp bends/snags at either place can increase the liklihood of breakage). If you "hook under" too much when you pop (if you pop), you can break strings that way, too (since you're basically not letting go of them when you pull up).

As far as heavier/lighter strings being more likely to break, I suppose that depends in part on how they influence your right hand attack/approach.
 
#822
FunkMetal, ixlramp, thanks for your insights -- and TapyTap, thanks for the link. I think I read that ages ago. I'll have to go back and re-read it.

I just played the bass for awhile, and experimented with EQ at the amp and technique, which both help some. Don't get me wrong. The bass sounds good. Rich, nice midrange, yummy, organic finger-funk tone. I had a good time playing it, and received good feedback on its tone both when I tried it out on a "bass day" with some friends and when I performed live with it. (I'm still pretty new to six string -- still dialing in my technique and this bass, so it hasn't gone "out" much yet.) The strings seem responsive to nuances in touch, which I like.

What I'm hearing is subtle -- not sure how to describe it. If I pluck the open B and move from bridge toward the fingerboard as I go, I don't get only the expected change in tone from bright/midrangey to bassy/woody (poor descriptors, I know) but something floating above -- like a wah/sweepable filter. Really quiet, really subtle, but definitely there. Touch can help a lot. EQ helps some -- except in the case of a weird, boomy room, I don't like using EQ to "fix" a sound, but just to emphasize certain parts of a sound I already feel is fundamentally good and solid.

I have to experiment with this some more. I don't think I got a bad string (@ cassius 987), unless I got two -- but I took the B off this bass and put it on the bolt-on, where it's performing without issue. The B I replaced it with sounds just the same.

I'll play around with this (and maybe some different gauges later). I definitely like the balanced feel (love it on my Fender), but don't think I'd want to go bottom-heavy... though it is a novel idea.
-Mark
 
#823
I would have no problem going bottom heavy.

For some reason it seems like my lowest string always buzzes, rattles, etc more than any of my other strings.

Also, I think having a heavier low string would allow me to dig in a little more on that one to get the big, booming lows when I want them.
 
#825
FunkMetalBass said:
If you're snapping your strings, why would you increase the tension on the string and the likelihood of it happening more often? You should actually choose a smaller gauge for a more flexible string that can undergo the abuse.
Click to expand...

That makes more sense, I'll give it a go.

I don't play too aggressively and these are the only strings I've broken in years, I have a 2 year old pair of Roto 66s that are still going strong.
 
#826
More guitar single strings now available, from .008p to .029w in (mostly) steps of .001, from .029w to .070 in (mostly) steps of .002, impressive. Their policy with bass single strings is that singles come at no extra cost compared to sets, i assume it's the same for guitar strings. No tension chart yet or length specs, seem to remember knuckle_head saying they'll be long enough for baritones.
Link Removed
 
#828
I've been wanting to try balanced tension strings on my bass for a while now and I just bought another bass (on backorder) to string with BEAD, but not knowing which tension I want. I will probably order Circle Ks (glad I read this first because I haven't heard back from my emails to him/them. Update: they're at NAMM right now) but which sets? Here's my inspiration moment: I already know my current tensions from the D'Addario chart so I used that to find out what note to tune each string to get a balanced tension! Sure the notes will be wrong but I want to get a feel for it. On my 34" bass the strings are 45/65/80/100 with a range from 36 to 52 lbs tension, so for
36/38 I tune to E-G#-B-F#,
for 41/43 F-A-C-G,
and for 46/48 F#-A#-C#-G#.

I understand that CKs feel looser so I'll have to consider that but thought I'd toss this out in case anyone else wanted to test drive the idea before plunking down cash for the strings. Since their chart doesn't list the sharps, just add 2 together and divide by 2, close enough (except of course for B,C and E,F) to see how to tune yours to get balanced tensions.

I liked the lowest tension the best so I ordered the .136 set for the bass I just ordered and the .102 for my current. We'll see when they arrive.
 
#829
ericjschroeder said:
Here's my inspiration moment: I already know my current tensions from the D'Addario chart so I used that to find out what note to tune each string to get a balanced tension! Sure the notes will be wrong but I want to get a feel for it. On my 34" bass the strings are 45/65/80/100 with a range from 36 to 52 lbs tension, so for
36/38 I tune to E-G#-B-F#,
for 41/43 F-A-C-G,
and for 46/48 F#-A#-C#-G#.
Click to expand...
Yes good method :)
ericjschroeder said:
Since their chart doesn't list the sharps, just add 2 together and divide by 2, close enough
Click to expand...
Yes calculating the average gets you very close :)
 
#832
Ordering a drop-tuned set for my 6er today after school! but for those who've tried these out, what would be closest to around medium-heavy tension? I'm debating between the .158 or .150 set. I tune my bass A E A D G C. What do you guys think?

Cant wait for 7 string *edit*guitar*edit* sets! Maybe get my guitarist (no, he's surprisingly not a guitard) converted to them as well... :)

James
 
#833
James, make sure to choose a 'drop tune' set from this page Link Removed, these are designed to have equal tension strings in a drop tuning. What's your favourite roundwound gauge for a standard E?
 
#834
oops, should've specified. Yes, the gauges provided are the thickest from the drop tuned sets. I've usually been comfortable with a .105". The .158" has a .106" E, and the .150" has a .102" E.

Decisions Decisions...I'll probably go with the .150" set. I've always gotten thicker strings, but that was so my B wouldn't rattle when I dropped it to A.

What say you?

James
 
#835
Well there are others here whose experience is that CKs feel very loose for their gauge due to their extreme flexibility, so it's a good idea to choose the next heavier set to the one suggested by the gauges. But hey Skip at CKS will be happy to help you find the right set, he's the expert :)
 
#836
New string time is approaching and I'm having the same conundrum as James with regards to choosing the best guage for my needs. I've read this entire thread (albiet not recently) and figured I'd post here before contacting CKS.

My bass is a custom fiver, mahogany/maple body, maple/ebony neck. It's very solid and gives me a lot of sustain. Currently I have a set of medium D'Addario ProSteels on it (.135 b; .105 e) and if you look at their tensions I can really feel the difference (the upper strings are a lot tighter than the lower ones, i.e. higher tension).

The B is better than most; I'm learning that thicker is much better for sustain, but according to D'Addario's chart it sits at 34.3 lbs of tension. The E is 37.3 (my bass is 34" scale and would match D's tension chart). CKS recommends you go with the E string when it comes to balanced sets so the .142/.106 etc. set was what I was going to go with. Tension for that set is around ~42-43 lbs. I think that will improve my ability to dig in with reduced fret rattle (I like low action) but I'm contemplating the .150/.112 set at ~46 lbs of tension given reports that they 'feel' more loose despite being heavier guages and tensions.

Any thoughts/advice on this?

Raz
 
#837
Raz, I just ordered the (drop tuned) .166/.112 set based on the [DEL]fact[/DEL] consensus that the they are, as you said, 'looser.' So a .oo7 thicker E should hopefully counteract the loose tendencies. Plus with the thicker A I'll hopefully be able to play farther from the bridge, something I've been doing to counteract the clicking and rattling that skanky .135 has been giving me.

ixlramp, thanks for the advice, as soon as my strings get in I'll be post up my thoughts on them.

I got this bass back in May of '11, and if I'm reading it right, it was made in May of 'o9, and I haven't changed the strings yet... Regardless of the tension being to my preferences or not, there will still be an ungodly improvement :)
 
#838
Razman said:
New string time is approaching and I'm having the same conundrum as James with regards to choosing the best guage for my needs. I've read this entire thread (albiet not recently) and figured I'd post here before contacting CKS.

My bass is a custom fiver, mahogany/maple body, maple/ebony neck. It's very solid and gives me a lot of sustain. Currently I have a set of medium D'Addario ProSteels on it (.135 b; .105 e) and if you look at their tensions I can really feel the difference (the upper strings are a lot tighter than the lower ones, i.e. higher tension).

The B is better than most; I'm learning that thicker is much better for sustain, but according to D'Addario's chart it sits at 34.3 lbs of tension. The E is 37.3 (my bass is 34" scale and would match D's tension chart). CKS recommends you go with the E string when it comes to balanced sets so the .142/.106 etc. set was what I was going to go with. Tension for that set is around ~42-43 lbs. I think that will improve my ability to dig in with reduced fret rattle (I like low action) but I'm contemplating the .150/.112 set at ~46 lbs of tension given reports that they 'feel' more loose despite being heavier guages and tensions.

Any thoughts/advice on this?

Raz
Click to expand...

Truthfully, either is a solid choice and I think you'll be amazed in the tonal difference of the B-string alone. If you like the .105 E-string, then get the CKS .112 (which is the 150 set). If you do a lot of slapping, I'd get the 142 set.
 
#839
Derek Kiernan said:
I've been chatting back and forth with Skip a bit by email. You're correct - the .009-.037 set is balanced, which should be pretty interesting, as wrapped strings start as .025, meaning the first 4 string in the set is "plain"
Click to expand...
Derek ... i'm thinking there may be some errors on the CKS page for single guitar strings Link Removed. There are apparently new wound strings from .017 to .022, but this doesn't seem to make sense as Skip has described how difficult it is to make wounds smaller than .025. Also their guitar strings are derived from the bass formulas which have a smallest wound of .025. So i'm thinking the .017 to .022 are actually plains, it would make more sense than having plains stop at .016. There is a gap in available gauges between .022 and .025, which seems to suggest that is the transition from plain to wound.

Parametalhead ... can you confirm this? :)
 
#840
JamesGoodall said:
Raz, I just ordered the (drop tuned) .166/.112 set based on the [DEL]fact[/DEL] consensus that the they are, as you said, 'looser.' So a .oo7 thicker E should hopefully counteract the loose tendencies. Plus with the thicker A I'll hopefully be able to play farther from the bridge, something I've been doing to counteract the clicking and rattling that skanky .135 has been giving me.
Click to expand...

Thanks James, I'm leaning towards the 150 set that comes with a .112 E. Let me know what you think when you get them.

FunkMetal, thanks for your input also. I play primarily with a pick and prefer a more midrangey, aggressive tone with zing (I like SS strings). We'll see what happens...
 

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